Okay Ladies....let's calm down. Seems like yall need some coolant in yall with a thermostat.

 

Just correcting false statements, claims etc that is typicaly of paid bloggers as itemized in each of my replies to your statements and documented examples of comparisions of published fact and required in writing by previous moderator referencing forum rules.

Thank you.

 

Paid bloggers? that's quite an statement, and just shows you aren't around this corner of the forum too much. Normally I agree with you, but you have been downright rude with your comments on this thread.

We need to tone this one down.

 

Gentlemen, if I truly cared what this individual thought of me personally, I'd argue this further but the truth of the matter is that you all know me and you know that any claims I make are results of my own PERSONAL research and USE of the product in question. If he wants to wander into this forum and create this kind of rude turmoil, it will be dealt with. Again, I will say that I will agree to disagree because my opinions based upon my OWN RESEARCH and USE of the product are MINE alone. I cannot make anyone believe me or disbelieve me. I CAN put forth REAL knowledge based in FACT and personal experience with this product. If someone chooses to refute that, I can accept that insofar as they do not have the right to make FALSE claims simply because mine contradict their own. In short, disagree if you want, but no one has ANY right to make false claims about me personally when they have no FACTS to support the claim.

 

Based on my research over the years on these forums, I know Greystreak's advice is extremely well thought out and his contributions to this forum are invaluable. I may not post much, but I read topics almost daily. We all may have different opinions on what may work better and it's excellent to give our personal advice on what we think is better (based on research or personal experience) so people here can be educated and make their own decision based on what works for them.

Beechkid, in no way do I see Greystreak being a paid blogger and trying to sell a product based on that, however I can see why you would be upset if that happened on these forums. None of us want to waste time looking at advertisements, we come here to get knowledge and help, and I can guarantee Greystreak isn't try to advertise a product for money. He'd be doing it because that's what has worked best for him, and based on the information I've seen him post, he knows a LOT about these Broncos.

So we can all agree to disagree or have more friendly arguments so we can all be happy and kind and benevolent!! I think we all have more important things to do than get mad over each other based on what someone typed on their computer that we will most likely never meet or see!

ANYWAYS... back to the topic of this thread, I believe what it comes down to is that:

- If you use full strength antifreeze, use ONLY distilled water, not tap water or well water etc.

- If you use the 50/50 mix, you can fully fill your radiator with that and be mostly good. Possibly add more distilled water during summer, and more pure antifreeze during winter, or just keep it all 50/50

- If you are using distilled water, there are products you can use to prevent corrosion and beechkids posts provide more info on that

- If you fully flush out your system, you can switch to Evans coolant which is quite expensive, but is supposedly an excellent product and has very good reviews, prevents corrosion, and runs at a lower pressure then normal antifreeze. It is a lifetime product so once it's in you don't need to change it. Also its non-toxic so those with animals won't have to worry about accidental spilling when doing coolant maintenance.



In my opinion, it's easier for me to run to the store to get some antifreeze and distilled water, and if you use those and flush your system yearly, you will be in good shape. However, I may try to find the very small coolant leak I have and fix it up, then switch to Evans because I'm liking the way it sounds. But for now, I may stay with 50/50 coolant because it's cheaper initially, but not in the long run, and I have 5 cats and 2 dogs so any accidental spilling is pretty bad.

 

I'm just trying to sell Ford Trucks!

How do I get paid blogger?

 

Look, when someone with no documentation (as required & sent to me as a reminder formally by a moderator), makes statements or inferences such as ...

it is more effective................because if has a much higher boiling point
There is no need to inspect the internals of a cooling system

this is based off of only one item of reference, company marketing materials

let's take the boiling point for example...I do not doubt the elevated boiling point of the product as compared to "Conventional Coolant", but, if an engines max operation temp is 240 (let just say for discussion purposes), does having a boiling point or effective cooling spec of any liquid do any good even if it is effective at 400 degrees....of course not, because the fluid will still heat up to and past 240 degrees and engine damage will still occur......so the fact that the coolant can exceed that capacity by x times, has no benefit.

"There is no need to inspect the internals of a cooling system"- ie waste of time, or because the system is sealed there is no corrosion or contaminents entering the system, ...

well, inspecting the cooling system for contaminents provides early indicators of identifying upcoming component failure......leading to prevention or mitigation of potential damage. If you take a basic ph test of your coolant in a "sealed system" it is a 99% chance (statistically) you will find the ph is not 7.1, any variation of this is an indicator that "contaminents" exists and a chemical reaction is occurring.

So where is the 'cost effectiveness"....there is none, where is the "waste of time", there is none nore are there any references as required by the forum rules as referenced.

 

And on and on... who is "selling" what here? Who the hell are you to tell me what the basis for MY research is? Do you have ANY idea what my methods are? No more than I know yours. For all we know, you are a marketing VP for Prestone doing your level best to discredit viable competition that could put out out of business. (Yes, that is exactly how absurd you sound). So kindly stop making the gross assumption that you are omnipotent and have complete insight to my research. You don't have to agree with me. But you are not allowed to discredit my opinions simply because you have made the uninformed decision that my research is fallible. My information is based upon personal use in more than one vehicle for a period of more than ten years. And yes, inspecting a cooling system that utilizes inherently corrosive fluid is a VERY good idea. Components ARE going to fail in those systems. Scale, rust and lime do a number on moving parts as well as stationary metal components. So, you use a product that doesn't allow those things to become part of the system and you don't have the relentless inspection and testing and fluid changing to deal with. But when a skeptic like myself employs a new product and deliberately drains a fills the system with the kind of regularity you would suggest is the ONLY acceptable method of maintaining a cooling system for the first four years of product usage and still finds no corrosion and has no ill-effects from regular, long-term usage, your mind gets changed. Yes, drained and refilled the same waterless fluid every 4-6 months for the first four years it was in use because I was skeptical. But I really don't know why I am bothering to say all of this. By your line of thinking, I've been lying to these people since 2002.

Well, ask the folks who are running Bassani exhaust, because of the quality, the longevity and the fit. Ask the folks who opt to spend the extra money on a Tuff Country suspension lift because their lift is the ONLY one to incorporate additional alignment provisions for TTB trucks. Ask the folks who run Sylvania Silverstars even though they know they have a shorter life expectancy because they truly do produce a bit more light. Spend more than a week in this forum making a scene simply because you cannot accept that someone MIGHT have more or better information than you do. And yes, every one of the products listed above I have touted at some time or another because the question was asked, "What works best for you?" and I answered truthfully, with facts and actual product usage experience backed up with research information pertaining to the systems and components employed. But ya know, I guess all it takes is some arrogant know-it-all to show everyone in the forum what a terrible ******* I've been for the last ten years and how I've duped them all into ruining their vehicles with my suggestions.

 

^ ^

Would try Evens!

 

It boils down to this, as required in writing by the moderators (per the one based out of Denver), you are required to reference "like a college term paper" or "footnotes" for your basis of citation. otherwise per the moderator, it is (and i'm paraphrasing) gossip, PR & marketing type materials....and that is prohibited.

Moderator, I really think this posting needs to be close......I really can't understand the furror.....

 

OP

Grey said what he uses, 2 other members asked for information on the Evens as well as OP asking opinions on what people use, Grey responded to the thread with what he uses and why.
He isn't directly selling the product, just gave info and his personal experience and what others have experienced using Evens, which was asked for by other members.
You did the same with ethylene-gylcol based coolant & distilled water. BUT with a condescending post towards Grey as if what he uses isn't as good.
Just the way I see it.

 

Interesting discussion here even without the attitudes. In digging into the use of an anode, I found this link that in theory suggests that simply placing an anode in the reservoir tank is not buy you the most protection, if any at all. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
http://www.corrosionsource.com/(S(cylzjm45pkvkle45ywzhvn55))/FreeContent/1/Cathodic+Protection#BOOK1<o></o>
The anode needs to have a common connection with the metals it's protecting. This is exactly what the marine world is doing, the anode is directly attached to the metal it's protecting. In the automotive case, I think just grounding the anode would suffice since the engine block is already grounded as well. The radiator you may want to check for a common ground with an ohmmeter. The antifreeze solution itself is no substitute for a common connection to the anode for the block and radiator.<o></o>
What does anyone think about that ?

 

It was my understanding that somehow I was stating/implying that I was recommending people stay engrained in "old ways" (my words, not yours paraphrased)......

If I mis-understood or interpreted, I apologize.....

however, the laws of physics & chemistry have not changed in 100 years, by my trade (R&D/Vulnerability Assessment), I simply stated that people should judge a product by known scientific standard, not PR/media materials.

 

Ok, I'm done with this one. I'm not about to allow a year-old "discussion" to continue.