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The kickdown linkage rarely ever has as much travel as the throttle shaft of the carb. As such, it should be adjusted to it's max travel at wide open throttle, and the spring is used to keep it from moving until the throttle is opened far enough to contact it.
Having said that, how much travel does the kickdown have?
I saw a truck pulling a car down the road with a 10000 LB tow strap the other day, had a guy in the back turning the wheel and pushing the brake pedal. If they can rig up something that redneck to pull a car down the road, imagine what I could do?
What's wrong with that? That's the way I've ALWAYS towed a car. Guy in the back braked for both vehicles.
Of course, that was another small town I lived in. Key West in the 70's didn't have much going on, so us kids could get away with a lot of stuff...
What's wrong with that? That's the way I've ALWAYS towed a car. Guy in the back braked for both vehicles.
If course, that was another small town I lived in. Key West in the 70's didn't have much going on, so us kids could get away with a lot of stuff...
I have used a variation of the same method several times. Normally, this is illegal, but I have found a loophole.
Use a chain that's run thru a length of pipe, with a little slack in the chain. There has to be a little so you can turn, but you don't want a lot.
The piped chain becomes a legal "towbar" since it *should* reduce the chances of the towed vehicle contacting the towing vehicle. Rather important, since the towing vehicle may need to apply brakes in a hurry, and the guy in the towed vehicle may not have any idea this is about to happen.
Yes, I've even seen guys get away with using PVC pipe. Wouldn't want to try that myself......
I used a US military chain rated at 80k (used for pulling Howitzers back in the day) to flat tow a 98 Cherokee from Coolidge to my house...about 15 miles each way and I had to go up Tehuacana Hill both times (highest hill in Texas I believe).
And that is how my bumper got messed up...manual brakes aren't very good for sudden stops!
I had my nephew with his 1 ton Chebbie diesel truck tow the '82 Explorer, and I did the braking. Of course his truck weighed almost 9K and my engine wasn't running so the booster didn't work very well. Not sure the rotors were warped when we started but they sure were when we stopped! Not recommended.
Working now. The vacuum line had a split in it that I couldnt see in the dark last night. Franklin was the first to diagnose and get right. Thanks all for your help. Now if I only had a/c I'd be straight
Working now. The vacuum line had a split in it that I couldnt see in the dark last night. Franklin was the first to diagnose and get right. Thanks all for your help. Now if I only had a/c I'd be straight
I am having issues as well, I posted a new thread, but just seen this post so thought I'd ask about it here, too.
I have an 85 351w HO w c6 and when bf put different carb on it now won't shift into D unless idling SUPER low... he think vacuum issue? Any ideas?
I am having issues as well, I posted a new thread, but just seen this post so thought I'd ask about it here, too.
I have an 85 351w HO w c6 and when bf put different carb on it now won't shift into D unless idling SUPER low... he think vacuum issue? Any ideas?
Try disconnecting the kick down linkage at the new carb and see what happens.
Also when replacing the carb it's so easy to miss a vacuum port and
leave it open. Thus little or no vacuum to the modulator. Check all vacuum
ports on the carb and make sure you have vacuum at the modulator.
These are the two things that come to mind from your post. Maybe get a more mechanical BF would help. (jk)
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