c6 tranny problem
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Junior User
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c6 tranny problem
Finally got the truck running great. 1 day later, tranny's giving me problems. It won't shift out of first in drive but if I manually shift it 1-2 it works. Any ideas? Is there any way to test a tranny out of a truck( going to look at one on Saturday). Thanks.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Also could be. But, I thought that just modified the point that it shifts awa how it shifts. Still, something to check.
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All true guys , I just like to get an idea of what's going on internally in the tranny ....pulling the pan does that ( obviously )
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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I just went outside and had a look. It's definitely the kickdown. It's stuck. I unhooked the linkage from the carb. It's definitely stuck. Any ideas on how to unstick it. I just replaced the carb and forgot to put the spring back on it( I wondered where the spring came from. Again, thanks guys.
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Fleet Mechanic
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I just went outside and had a look. It's definitely the kickdown. It's stuck. I unhooked the linkage from the carb. It's definitely stuck. Any ideas on how to unstick it. I just replaced the carb and forgot to put the spring back on it( I wondered where the spring came from. Again, thanks guys.
Heat? Gear oil? Heat and water? Some more heat?
A lot of prayer and cussing? A BFH?
I saw a truck pulling a car down the road with a 10000 LB tow strap the other day, had a guy in the back turning the wheel and pushing the brake pedal. If they can rig up something that redneck to pull a car down the road, imagine what I could do?
Let's take a Warn wench and connect to your kickdown linkage and give it a tug and see what happens.
Or, we could use a log chain to my D-rings on the back with a drag-style launch in 2nd gear?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
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Play with it a little bit and see what you get. Lubricant can't hurt. You might even have to take the linkage apart (assuming you can, I haven't messed with the linkage on an auto).
You can drive the truck with the kick-down linkage detached. Take it for a drive and see how the transmission will shift. The kick down linkage mechanically "kicks-down" the transmission to a numerically higher gear when you put your foot to the floorboard, so you can get your RPM's up quicker and put the motor in its power band faster. This means quicker acceleration.
If you drive it with the linkage detached, make sure you don't lose anything that might be loose.
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Junior User
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The kickdown is completely engaged. I can engage it a little more physically but it hits a brick wall trying to bring it to its rest position. I don't know much about granny's and have never worked on one. So please be patient with me. This is just a haul/tile work truck handed down from my dad and not my primary truck. Trying to keep my 07-150 as nice as I can as I'll have it a looong time. Thanks again.
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From: Connecticut
If I remember correctly there is an actuator rod on the top of the valve body with a cut in it that the kick-down lever is supposed to rest in. I believe it may be possible to install the valve body incorrectly the the lever not resting in the cut. If that is the case, the rod could be binding on the k/d lever.
Other than that, I cant think if anything in the trans that the k/d could hang up on. While I am a huge fan of my BFH, I dont think this is a situation where you want to try and persuade anything loose just yet. I would, in this order:
1) Buy C6 Rebuild book or shop manual (there is someone that sells these on Ebay now in a full search-able PDF format.)
2) Buy drain universal drain plug kit
3) Drill 1/4" hole in side of pan where you want plug to later go
4) Drain off nearly 2 gallons of ATF through hole
5) Remove pan
6) Remove valve body
7) See if k/d is now free
8) If free put valve body back in, hopefully all is solved. If not free, I have no clue - Maybe time for the BFH.
Other than that, I cant think if anything in the trans that the k/d could hang up on. While I am a huge fan of my BFH, I dont think this is a situation where you want to try and persuade anything loose just yet. I would, in this order:
1) Buy C6 Rebuild book or shop manual (there is someone that sells these on Ebay now in a full search-able PDF format.)
2) Buy drain universal drain plug kit
3) Drill 1/4" hole in side of pan where you want plug to later go
4) Drain off nearly 2 gallons of ATF through hole
5) Remove pan
6) Remove valve body
7) See if k/d is now free
8) If free put valve body back in, hopefully all is solved. If not free, I have no clue - Maybe time for the BFH.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Mexia, TX
BFHs and transmissions don't mix...if it's hanging up, there's gotta be a reason for it!
If you're not shifting out of first, make sure the modulator valve (small metal vacuum can on bottom right of transmission, looking at it from under the truck behind the transmission) is getting vacuum. Without vacuum, you won't get an automatic shift, but you can still manually shift.
Also check the vacuum line that runs from the engine to the modulator valve doesn't have any transmission fluid inside it. If it does, your valve is damaged and needs to be replaced (very simple job, held in by one bolt).
If you're not shifting out of first, make sure the modulator valve (small metal vacuum can on bottom right of transmission, looking at it from under the truck behind the transmission) is getting vacuum. Without vacuum, you won't get an automatic shift, but you can still manually shift.
Also check the vacuum line that runs from the engine to the modulator valve doesn't have any transmission fluid inside it. If it does, your valve is damaged and needs to be replaced (very simple job, held in by one bolt).