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I changed the ujoints on my drive shafts to get rid of a vibration around 55 - 60 and the a/b light now flashes then stays on in drive. I did forget to disconnect the battery when the shafts were worked and I am trying a reset disconnecting the battery for an hour. If trhis fails any suggestions?
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Ok so here is what I experienced:
Disconected the battery for some routine repairs, did a r&r fuel pump and u-joints, cleaned battery posts. Went for a test drive: had no speedo or interior lights and air bag flashed code 29 (oh, crap). The next day also found no wipers (Could be an RCM, GEM or BCM... OH CRAP!!). Could not see a blown fuse but tested them with a light and found a 10 amp position 26 fuse blown. Put in a new one and on the road again! There are as many as 10 or 12 different fuses, relays or diodes to check related to this issue; start with the easy one in the interior fuse panel. Great times!
Since Fords run together, if you have a 2xxcould start with prior years also) Tuarus and are doing the inner tierod ends get the Lisle 45750 Tool. Few other things will fit the Ford original tierod.
Yes, back on the road with one last thing to cure and that is a vibration at 2300+ rpm or about 60-65, gets better at 70+ but is loud. Feels like front end stuff as it hit the floor boards and seats. Tires balanced and as you can see hit a bunch of other things to try and fix it. Any ideas beyond a motor mount???
Yes, back on the road with one last thing to cure and that is a vibration at 2300+ rpm or about 60-65, gets better at 70+ but is loud. Feels like front end stuff as it hit the floor boards and seats. Tires balanced and as you can see hit a bunch of other things to try and fix it. Any ideas beyond a motor mount???
Did the vibration come about after some event????
Is the vibration there at the trouble rpm if the vehicle is at rest???
If not, have the wheels & tires been checked for runout & or been "road force" balanced????
No event noticed, just there from the day I purchased.
It seems to be speed dependent at 65-70 and rpm around 2200 - 2500 when in o/d or 60 - 70 at 2200 - 3000 when o/d is off. Remeber that is by speedo which is about 3 mph slow at those speeds. Heavier and more confined (was at speeds of 57-70) now that new u-joints are in place. And yes the front shaft has a new joint also, although it seems to have alot of play in the axle transfer case leading to the cv joint half shafts. BTW new front hubs and half shafts and passenger side inner bearing.
Don't notice it at rest, but will check paying attention.
I changed the ujoints on my drive shafts to get rid of a vibration around 55 - 60 and the a/b light now flashes then stays on in drive. I did forget to disconnect the battery when the shafts were worked and I am trying a reset disconnecting the battery for an hour. If trhis fails any suggestions?
I had a air bag light problem after driving on a rough washbord road it was a connector that came loose under the passenger seat.
So more develops; I took out the drive shaft for the front wheels and the vibration still hangs in there but is now softer and between 60-70 most noticed at 65. Not present in park and reving up to 3000 rpm. Is there on acceleration and deceleration with or without braking. Really hits the seat now. I think I am heading toward the differential or forward axle area. The half shafts and bearings are new this spring along with the passenger side bearing on the differential shaft where the half shaft is inserted. I could point this out better if there was a good front end diagram some place. Probably use the right terms to.
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