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There are videos on the net that show you how to do this. The answer is dependent upon how good you are with wiring, how much you want to spend to do it, and whether your truck is wired for it to begin with.
On the last part, your truck can be re-wired for it if you want to do that much work.
IIRC, the second alternator isn't even providing power unless the primary cannot handle the load, so in most cases, the alt would be spinning without being used.
Thanks, I was thinking about adding a 1000w inverter to the truck and was thinking I would need a little extra umph to use it much without draining the batteries.
Well, I like that idea a lot better...not needing a new belt, new wiring, new other stuff...and that's an interesting idea to install a deep cycle battery...I guess it could be mounted under the tool box in the bed raised some and adjacent to the inverter? Do you think it'd overheat there? Anyway, thanks for the great ideas.
I like Joe's idea myself. A higher amp alt and a storage battery would be the way to go. If you go with a separate storage battery you may need the higher amp alt to ensure all 3 batts get a good charge.
My truck has a separate deep cycle battery for the inverter, flashlight charger, cordless drill charger, etc. It connects to the vehicle electrical system through a solenoid that is energized when the key is on, and can be trickle charged from a 120V shore line. It provides plenty of backup power for the accessories, and if it goes dead the truck will still start.
My advice would be to go with the largest alternator that fits, and make sure the auxiliary battery is securely mounted and well vented if you use one. Lead-acid batteries can give off explosive hydrogen gas during charging.
That's a good idea too, Chris. I think an isolation relay + a big diode would be a great way to keep things from interacting negatively. I think I have a spare glow plug relay laying around...Thanks.
I just put a dc power 190amp unit on my truck and even with lights a/c and my 2 air compressors(35 amp draw apiece) in the tool box running my voltage stays around 13.6 or 13.8, and if you need bigger they make them all the way up to 370amp
That's a good idea too, Chris. I think an isolation relay + a big diode would be a great way to keep things from interacting negatively. I think I have a spare glow plug relay laying around...Thanks.
You would only need one or the other. I would go with a solid state isolator.
No moving parts or contacts to wear out and easier to wire than a relay.
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