extremely stuck power window
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extremely stuck power window
Tuesday I got in my 2004 escape and put down the drivers side window. Just after that I smelled a very strong ozone smell and the window would not go back up. The smell was coming from the door. I pulled the fuse from the power window system to prevent any sort of fire or such. Now I have tried to raise the window enough to replace the motor and regulator and it is totally stuck. I hooked the power back up and held down the window button while trying to lift the window and still no luck getting it up. I have the new motor and regulator and could have that installed quickly if I can move the bleeping window. suggestions greatly appreaciated. I am also going to check the switch when I get home.
Thanks
Thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
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If the design of the steel door structure doesn't allow you to unbolt the window glass from the regulator trolley with the window all the way down, can you get in there enough to snip through the regulator's lower cable?
If you can cut the lower cable, then maybe you can pull the window up, as the lower cable would no longer hold onto it, and the upper cable will go slack for the unsheathed distance of the upper cable as you lift the window.
My experience with cable-operated window regulators is that when something goes bad, it's a mess. Like the cable over-wrapping itself inside the winding drum on the motor's shaft. Which locks the whole thing up.
A common cause on any cable regulator seems to be a cable eventually sawing through a cable guide at the top or bottom of the regulator track assembly. The cable guides are often nylon, which is a self-lubricating material, until it finally does wear through!
With a guide sawed-through, the effective "lengthening" of the cable (since the cable is now is making a shorter path) exceeds the regulator's small amount of slack-take-up. This can cause an overwrap in the cable drum.
An overwrap in the cable drum causes kinked cables that can't be fixed.
Isn't working in doors fun? Need micro-sized hands? I just tell myself that it's still better than hanging upside down trying to do something up behind a dash
If you can cut the lower cable, then maybe you can pull the window up, as the lower cable would no longer hold onto it, and the upper cable will go slack for the unsheathed distance of the upper cable as you lift the window.
My experience with cable-operated window regulators is that when something goes bad, it's a mess. Like the cable over-wrapping itself inside the winding drum on the motor's shaft. Which locks the whole thing up.
A common cause on any cable regulator seems to be a cable eventually sawing through a cable guide at the top or bottom of the regulator track assembly. The cable guides are often nylon, which is a self-lubricating material, until it finally does wear through!
With a guide sawed-through, the effective "lengthening" of the cable (since the cable is now is making a shorter path) exceeds the regulator's small amount of slack-take-up. This can cause an overwrap in the cable drum.
An overwrap in the cable drum causes kinked cables that can't be fixed.
Isn't working in doors fun? Need micro-sized hands? I just tell myself that it's still better than hanging upside down trying to do something up behind a dash
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I got it fixed this evening. I loosened the motor case and turned the rotor by hand till it broke loose and then I could pull the window up. Then I took out the regulator and motor and put the new one in. Cutting the cable was going to be my next option. The ozone smell of that motor was extreme. I am glad that I removed the fuse after I smelled it. Thanks to all for the help. Once I got the windwo to move it was a really simple job.
Thanks
Thanks
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