Leaking Trans Fluid
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Leaking Trans Fluid
Took my '11 F350 CC 6.7 Lariat with 31k miles on it into the dealer to have the tranny fluid leak looked at. I noticed this leak a few weeks ago as the bell housing was damp with fluid and the bolts heads on the underside of the poly engine oil pan were pooled with fluid. It is a very slow leak as I have parked it for 3 days and there were no drips of fluid on the ground, just collecting on the grid like pattern on the oil pan. Checked Fluid level and it is also full.
Anyway, the dealer put dye in the tranny fluid and told me to drive it for a few days. I took it back in on Monday and called this morning for an update. The mechanic informed that they ordered a new torque converter and some other parts to be "proactive" because he believes the TC is the issue.
I asked if the cab would have to be pulled and they informed that all the work could be done from underneath.
Glad I noticed this before the B2B warranty expired because this would have been expensive.
I will be THOROUGHLY inspecting the entire vehicle from top to bottom before I hit 36k.
Anyway, the dealer put dye in the tranny fluid and told me to drive it for a few days. I took it back in on Monday and called this morning for an update. The mechanic informed that they ordered a new torque converter and some other parts to be "proactive" because he believes the TC is the issue.
I asked if the cab would have to be pulled and they informed that all the work could be done from underneath.
Glad I noticed this before the B2B warranty expired because this would have been expensive.
I will be THOROUGHLY inspecting the entire vehicle from top to bottom before I hit 36k.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,616
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From: Door Cty/Florida
When I purchased my last two Ford vehicles, the dealer advised that I drop my vehicle off at 35,500 or just short of the three years for a free inspection from them. He said that they are in the business of fixing cars and that it is not a faux pas to have them check everything prior to running out of warranty. Seems like a great idea to me.
Glad that you caught your trouble in time.
Glad that you caught your trouble in time.
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From: Isanti, MN
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When I purchased my last two Ford vehicles, the dealer advised that I drop my vehicle off at 35,500 or just short of the three years for a free inspection from them. He said that they are in the business of fixing cars and that it is not a faux pas to have them check everything prior to running out of warranty. Seems like a great idea to me.
Glad that you caught your trouble in time.
Glad that you caught your trouble in time.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 25,479
Likes: 738
From: Isanti, MN
Powertrain and drivetrain are different words for the same thing. See here:
Originally Posted by 2011 Ford Warranty Guide pp. 10-11
Extended warranty coverage periods are available for certain
vehicle parts and conditions. Specifically,
(1) Your vehicle’s Powertrain components are covered for five years or
60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The extended coverage applies to
the Engine: all internal lubricated parts, cylinder block, cylinder heads,
electrical fuel pump, electronic engine control unit, engine mounts,
flywheel, injection pump, manifold (exhaust and intake), manifold bolts,
oil pan, oil pump, seals and gaskets, thermostat, thermostat housing,
timing chain cover, timing chain (gears or belt),
turbocharger/supercharger unit, valve covers, water pump;
Transmission: all internal parts, clutch cover, seals and gaskets, torque
converter, transfer case (including all internal parts), transmission case,
transmission mounts; Front-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, bearings (front
and rear), center support bearing, drive shafts, final drive housing
(including all internal parts), hubs-automatic front locking (four-wheel
drive), locking rings (four-wheel drive), seals and gaskets, universal and
constant velocity joints; Rear-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, bearings (front
and rear), center support bearing, drive axle housing (including all
internal parts), drive shaft, propeller shafts, retainers, supports, seals and
gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints.
vehicle parts and conditions. Specifically,
(1) Your vehicle’s Powertrain components are covered for five years or
60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The extended coverage applies to
the Engine: all internal lubricated parts, cylinder block, cylinder heads,
electrical fuel pump, electronic engine control unit, engine mounts,
flywheel, injection pump, manifold (exhaust and intake), manifold bolts,
oil pan, oil pump, seals and gaskets, thermostat, thermostat housing,
timing chain cover, timing chain (gears or belt),
turbocharger/supercharger unit, valve covers, water pump;
Transmission: all internal parts, clutch cover, seals and gaskets, torque
converter, transfer case (including all internal parts), transmission case,
transmission mounts; Front-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, bearings (front
and rear), center support bearing, drive shafts, final drive housing
(including all internal parts), hubs-automatic front locking (four-wheel
drive), locking rings (four-wheel drive), seals and gaskets, universal and
constant velocity joints; Rear-Wheel Drive: axle shafts, bearings (front
and rear), center support bearing, drive axle housing (including all
internal parts), drive shaft, propeller shafts, retainers, supports, seals and
gaskets, universal and constant velocity joints.
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Nice! That makes me feel better.
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Got my SD back a few days ago and the trans fluid leak seems to be fixed as it's now bone dry after about 250 miles. Here's what they replaced:
Converter Asy
Flywheel Asy
Seal Asy - Oil
12 qts of auto trans oil.
While I had it in and again asked them to fix the buzzing noise after shutdown and provided the wastegate solenoid part # (9E882-42) that needed to be replace that I found in this forum (THANK YOU). The dealer said this solenoid replacement would not be covered after my B2B warranty expired, so I'm glad I got that done.
Everything seems to be doing well now.
Converter Asy
Flywheel Asy
Seal Asy - Oil
12 qts of auto trans oil.
While I had it in and again asked them to fix the buzzing noise after shutdown and provided the wastegate solenoid part # (9E882-42) that needed to be replace that I found in this forum (THANK YOU). The dealer said this solenoid replacement would not be covered after my B2B warranty expired, so I'm glad I got that done.
Everything seems to be doing well now.
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Well, after 6 days at the dealer, the trans didn't leak for 4 days before I noticed it again while changing the motor oil for the first time. Looks like it will be going back to the dealer again; I wonder how low they'll have it this time... I'm not happy to say the least.
The fluid appears to be leaking (very slowly) from the bottom of the where the bell housing meets the engine block. I'm not sure, but I would assume on a non leaking truck, that there is trans fluid inside the bell housing (not contained within another part / seal), am I correct? I curious why the dealer replaced (or atleast said they replaced) the TC and flywheel? This obviously didn't fix the problem, but it seems to me like a gasket (trans / motor) is the issue.
I'm obvioulsy not a mechanic, but am very mechanically inclined, and the dealers previous "solution" seems off base to me. Thoughts?
The fluid appears to be leaking (very slowly) from the bottom of the where the bell housing meets the engine block. I'm not sure, but I would assume on a non leaking truck, that there is trans fluid inside the bell housing (not contained within another part / seal), am I correct? I curious why the dealer replaced (or atleast said they replaced) the TC and flywheel? This obviously didn't fix the problem, but it seems to me like a gasket (trans / motor) is the issue.
I'm obvioulsy not a mechanic, but am very mechanically inclined, and the dealers previous "solution" seems off base to me. Thoughts?
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 25,479
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From: Isanti, MN
The only thought I have is that it might not still be leaking. I had a similar problem on my 2008 F250, only the leak was at the rear of the transmission as the output shaft seal was leaking. I noticed it when I was installing my running boards, as the transmission crossmember was soaked in fluid. When I got the truck back after the repair I noticed that there was still some fluid seeping out of there. Very frustrated I drove back to the dealer where they put it on the lift and looked at it with me.
The tech said that the thougth it may have been residual fluid left over from when it was leaking the first time. He spent some more time cleaning things out and told me to give it a couple of days. All was well after that...he was right, it was just fluid left over from before the repair.
Not saying that this is your problem, as you had a different seal failure. But it could be something as simple as this.
The tech said that the thougth it may have been residual fluid left over from when it was leaking the first time. He spent some more time cleaning things out and told me to give it a couple of days. All was well after that...he was right, it was just fluid left over from before the repair.
Not saying that this is your problem, as you had a different seal failure. But it could be something as simple as this.
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The only thought I have is that it might not still be leaking. I had a similar problem on my 2008 F250, only the leak was at the rear of the transmission as the output shaft seal was leaking. I noticed it when I was installing my running boards, as the transmission crossmember was soaked in fluid. When I got the truck back after the repair I noticed that there was still some fluid seeping out of there. Very frustrated I drove back to the dealer where they put it on the lift and looked at it with me.
The tech said that the thougth it may have been residual fluid left over from when it was leaking the first time. He spent some more time cleaning things out and told me to give it a couple of days. All was well after that...he was right, it was just fluid left over from before the repair.
Not saying that this is your problem, as you had a different seal failure. But it could be something as simple as this.
The tech said that the thougth it may have been residual fluid left over from when it was leaking the first time. He spent some more time cleaning things out and told me to give it a couple of days. All was well after that...he was right, it was just fluid left over from before the repair.
Not saying that this is your problem, as you had a different seal failure. But it could be something as simple as this.
I have just enough leaking after 47k miles that dust collects and I had to add about 1/4 of quart to top off when hot to bring the fluid back to the middle of the hot section. I cleaned everything really good with brake clean and rags, nothing after a thousand miles of fiver towing, a few droplets forming after two thousand miles of towing. Any thoughts? I never see trans temps over 201 towing 15k at 65mph all over the southwest in 100 to 115 'f air temps.
My oil temps top out at 240 and the fan clutch engages on each long climb at over 105'f. Lost 3 of 4 tow max erated tires in 200 miles. Horrible experience. Switched to e rated LT tires by cooper, MUCH better tire temps and no loss so far.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
Anyone else seeing a small amount of fluid on the back half of transmission pan, body, and crossmember?
I have just enough leaking after 47k miles that dust collects and I had to add about 1/4 of quart to top off when hot to bring the fluid back to the middle of the hot section. I cleaned everything really good with brake clean and rags, nothing after a thousand miles of fiver towing, a few droplets forming after two thousand miles of towing. Any thoughts? I never see trans temps over 201 towing 15k at 65mph all over the southwest in 100 to 115 'f air temps.
My oil temps top out at 240 and the fan clutch engages on each long climb at over 105'f. Lost 3 of 4 tow max erated tires in 200 miles. Horrible experience. Switched to e rated LT tires by cooper, MUCH better tire temps and no loss so far.
I have just enough leaking after 47k miles that dust collects and I had to add about 1/4 of quart to top off when hot to bring the fluid back to the middle of the hot section. I cleaned everything really good with brake clean and rags, nothing after a thousand miles of fiver towing, a few droplets forming after two thousand miles of towing. Any thoughts? I never see trans temps over 201 towing 15k at 65mph all over the southwest in 100 to 115 'f air temps.
My oil temps top out at 240 and the fan clutch engages on each long climb at over 105'f. Lost 3 of 4 tow max erated tires in 200 miles. Horrible experience. Switched to e rated LT tires by cooper, MUCH better tire temps and no loss so far.
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