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I have to get my rear drive line u-joints taken care of and get a new diff spindle seal. No problem getting them off but I might need to move the beast in the mean time.
I figured I could just put it into 4wd and move it using the front end only. I know I shouldn't take tight turns with the hubs locked on solid, dry ground especially with 12.5" wide tires but I was also thinking I could only lock one hub without a problem. It would only be for repositioning to get it out of the way while waiting to get the u-joints and seals done. If I needed more traction to climb my steep, and I mean steep, driveway I could lock both hubs after I pretty much had it lined up to it's desired position.
Is this a stupid idea or am I missing anything I should be aware of?
With an open front diff you shouldn't tear anything up with both hubs locked, I wouldnm't embark on a cross country trip but I am sure many many people have forgotten to unlock front hubs without any ill effects, so I am sure your reposition won't be a big deal. Let us know how your front wheel drive truck is.
****! Really? I assumed front diffs were all LS. Therefore the reason to need to lock the hubs. I guess that's why I asked the stupid question. It didn't occur to me the front diff would be open too.
I don't think any 70's fords came from the factory with limited slips. In fact very few trucks have in the past few decades. There are a few exceptions, but an open diff up front is pretty much the rule.
It will be very hard to turn tight but it probably won't break anything. I left my hubs locked in all the time when my truck was up int he woods at my old house.
The only front driving axle available with optional Limited Slip (L/S) were Dana 44-9F's (3,500 lb. capacity) installed in 1978/79 F150/250's and Bronco's.
But most 44-9F's did not come with L/S unless it was ordered.
1973/77 Bronco's with the Dana 44-1 front driving axle were also available with optional L/S. But here again, most 44-1's don't have L/S unless it was ordered.
Most dealers, when they ordered these vehicles from Ford district sales offices for their inventories, did not order optional L/S as it was costly.
So, the only other way to get L/S was to order the vehicles special. This could take as long as 3 months, so most people didn't bother.
And...how would you know IF any of these vehicles have L/S as Ford usually didn't include it in the Warranty Plate AXLE code.
The ID tag is located under one of the bolts that retains the inspection cover to the housing, but many of these tags are missing today.
The reason not to drive with four wheel drive engaged on hard surfaces is that it can cause binding in the transfer case when the axles turn a different radius. If you only have the front driveshaft in place, there shouldn't be any problems.
With that said, I had a 79 Bronco that a previous owner had set up (halfway) for mudding, lifted with 15.?x 38's the front was locked, the rear was open??? and it still had 3.50 gears.
When the 9 inch broke in the back, I drove it a little with the front end engaged. The locker in the front made it kind of squirrelly on pavement; point it where you wanted to go then give it gas. If you wanted to turn, you had to let of the stupid pedel.
Well I took off my drive line, had too cut off the clamps & didn't have a socket big enough to take off the yoke, yay! Anyway my parts guys are closed today (Utah holiday) so I had to pull the truck out.
I locked the hubs and pulled out fine. It did give a bit of a jolt as I cranked it to the right and pulled forward a bit so I could line up along the curb. Is this binding, locking up or might I just need new U-joints at my knuckles?
They might just need some grease. The u-joints in the front axle on my 77 dont have zerks; when I greased the front wheel bearings I was going to pull the axles to check for grease, (since I use four wheel drive a lot more than the original owner) but I couldn't get the spindles to come off. Those u-joints are probably original to the truck.
I will have to fix that one of these days.........
I have done it when I blew a rear u-joint, and know of a case where they drove a Bronco for a long time with the rear diff bad, no rear drive shaft. The issue with 4x4 on dry is when both the front and rear are engaged. With just the front axle engaged, it is no different than driving a front drive car.
Well, if it's supposed to act like a normal fwd I've got issues. I pulled it back into the garage last night and it bucked like I was driving through a boulder field. Looks like I have at least one bad U-joint. My rear diff is making me nervous too.
I was playing in the sand a few years back in the OBX of NC...I blew the CV on the rear driveshaft in my Bronco. I either had to wait 5 days for replacement parts or drive home. I locked the fronts and made the 6 hour trip home.
As for driving through a boulder field...ujoint or balljoint(s) or both would be my guess.
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