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My fuel pump is not always getting 12v. When it does get 12v the truck runs fine, but when it doesn't, it runs awful. I have a vegistroke kit installed, and it runs great when on veg. Could the #30 relay cause this? By the way, the WTS light always lights up. When the diesel pump is getting 12v the fuel pressure is fine.
When it first started acting up, I immediately thought the tank screen was clogged, but I happened to have it in the shop for something else, and the mechanic said the pump wasn't getting proper voltage all the time.
Are the fuel pump/PCM and the blower motor relays the same? If so, I thought about swapping them to see if that cures it.
Fuses aren't typically intermittent, but it's always a good thing to check. Relays, connectors, and switches are almost always a good source of inttermittent power. I'd start simple with inspecting connector contacts, then I'd inspect relay contacts, then I'd see if I could find those switches and ohm them out. If the problem wasn't intermittent, I'd follow the missing voltage back with a meter.
I found the relay block behind the radio. Searchs revealed this is the location for the fuel pump relay. There are a few bigger relays and a small relay. NAPA and the dealer numbers say the smaller relay is the correct relay for a fuel pump. The question is "is it the one for the fuel pump?" The truck started and ran without the relay in! Is that even possible - if so, I would like to know how.
Anyway, I replaced the relay. The truck ran fine most of the day, but decided to act up after switching back from veg last night. I switched back to veg and immediately back to diesel and it ran fine. I'm leaning towards the veg on/off switch is not making good contact when going back to diesel.
The switch is cheap enough that I think I'll throw a new one at it.
The question is "is it the one for the fuel pump?" The truck started and ran without the relay in! Is that even possible - if so, I would like to know how.
The engine will not run without the fuel pump relay in place. You should be able to identify it by listening or feeling for a click when the key is turned on (the PCM enabling the fuel pump) and then another click about 20-30 seconds later with KOEO (the pcm shutting off the fuel pump without seeing an engine start). You can also identify the relay with the engine running by looking for a loss of 12V at the fuel pump when the relay is pulled.
How is your veg/diesel system designed? Does the switch control a valve that selects fuel from the desired tank, or does the switch enable an entirely separate fuel pump?
Maybe this is old news to others, but I just stumbled onto this today:
"Inertia Fuel Shutoff" Allegedly, if your vehicle gets whacked hard enough - it shuts the fuel off and needs to be reset. I have not yet looked any deeper into this, I'm preoccupied with pulling the trigger on my Buck$Zooka today. I just thought this info was worth mulling over.