1997 Expedition 5.4L cranks wont start
#1
1997 Expedition 5.4L cranks wont start
I have a 1997 Exp with 150k miles on it. About 3 weeks ago I was driving it on the HWY at 75 mph and it just died. I had stopped to go to the bathroom shut the vehicle off for about 10 minutes and had been back on the road for about 5 minutes when it died. Pulled off the road, it would crank but wouldnt start. Tried the pressure valve on the fuel line above the injecters and got no fuel, so I assumed it was the fuel pump. So towed it home and it has sat since then, we have been doing work on it, new brakes, rotors, calipers, altenator, serpintine belt and a new fuel filter and fuel pump. Still wont start, cranks but wont start, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, acts like it is now getting fuel but still wont start just cranks. Auto parts store told me it could be the ECM? I cant remember what they called it but the plugs are wired to it and it makes them spark (like the old plug wires) So I have to change that now. But after reading on here and elsewhere I am wondering if it is the PATS? I did have a new 2nd key made as it only came with one about a week before this happened but it had driven fine. Any suggestions or comments?
Thanks
Brian
Thanks
Brian
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Start with the most basic issue: Is the PCM getting power?
If the CEL lights during power up, then yes. If not, then no. No power to the computer means the computer isn't operating. Common reasons are a bad PCM Power relay or one of the critical fuses - F24 under the hood & F30 under the dash.
If the CEL lights during power up, then yes. If not, then no. No power to the computer means the computer isn't operating. Common reasons are a bad PCM Power relay or one of the critical fuses - F24 under the hood & F30 under the dash.
#5
The story continues
So after giving up I towed the expedition to a Ford dealership. they found the problem, the fuse in the main fuse box under the hood that controls the fuel pump and the PATS system had melted part of the fuse box then blown. They told me the wiring harness was discontinued and after market would run around $1500 just for the part. But they could rewire it outside of the fuse box and just plug the new fuse in there. So they did this and cost me $330 dollars ($4 in parts) Today driving about an hour form my home it blew the fuse again. So I pulled another 30 amp fuse and when I tried to start it blew it immediately. SO I pulled the 60 amp fuse to just get me off the road and to an auto parts store and it ran but then blew that fuse. I bought a new 30 amp and as soon as I cranked it, it smoked and blew the fuse. So here is my question, any ideas on where to start to see what is causing this to happen? I am leaning towards a wire grounding out, but where do I start to look?
Thanks
Brian
Thanks
Brian
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#8
Most common cause of F24 glowing is that one of the O2 sensor harnesses is laying on either an exhaust manifold or a front drive shaft .
Pretty common, actually. SEARCH key word "F24" for previous discussions. Exclude the diesel and super duty sections.
If you're lucky, using that 60A fuse didn't cause unrepairable wiring damage. After all, fuses are sized to protect the wiring down-circuit.
Pretty common, actually. SEARCH key word "F24" for previous discussions. Exclude the diesel and super duty sections.
If you're lucky, using that 60A fuse didn't cause unrepairable wiring damage. After all, fuses are sized to protect the wiring down-circuit.
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