A/C question
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A/C question
My a/c works fine in norm a/c but when I switch to max a/c it will run fine till the trans shifts to 2nd gear. Or when I'm climbing a steep grade. It will go to where it is almost off. If I catch it before it starts to slow down and switch it back to norm a/c it works fine. Any Ideas what's up with it?
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2004
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I just noticed the same thing with mine yesterday, pulling a trailer. Sure would stop blowing when i speed up. Thats when an engine loses some vacuum, so if there is a leak you wont have enough to run the controls for the ac.
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2007
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Just had the same problem myself, and thanks to Peter's advice I was able to fix it easily. It was that samll white vacuum line that comes out of the passenger side firewall...it was hard and brittle. I cut out the brittle part and unwrapped the wire loom so that I could conect the now shorter vacuum line, and that solved the problem completely. Best part, total cost $0.00.
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It feels as though the fan is slowing
What is AFAIK?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Lafayette, IN
AFAIK = As Far As I Know.
The air coming out the vents is less because the default position for the blower doors is the defrost setting. Switching the controls to a different setting applies vacuum to hold it in a different position. If you lose vacuum, it will fall back to defrost. That's why most folks first notice a problem going up a hill or towing--engine vacuum goes away under load. If the leak starts out small, the vacuum at cruising throttle may be enough to overcome the leak and move the doors, but as the leak gets larger or the engine load goes up, then there's not enough vacuum to keep the doors anywhere other than defrost. Under normal operation, the vacuum reservoir is enough to bridge times of higher engine load, but not if there's a leak.
Jason
The air coming out the vents is less because the default position for the blower doors is the defrost setting. Switching the controls to a different setting applies vacuum to hold it in a different position. If you lose vacuum, it will fall back to defrost. That's why most folks first notice a problem going up a hill or towing--engine vacuum goes away under load. If the leak starts out small, the vacuum at cruising throttle may be enough to overcome the leak and move the doors, but as the leak gets larger or the engine load goes up, then there's not enough vacuum to keep the doors anywhere other than defrost. Under normal operation, the vacuum reservoir is enough to bridge times of higher engine load, but not if there's a leak.
Jason
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