I should have questioned him about the additives, im no expert so at first glance of the invoice I figured it was something that was necessary for him to use. I lurk around these forums enough I should know but i dont, what is wrong with using the sealer and the other additive? I am no longer using the factory oil cooler setup, so no coolant vanes will be getting plugged up there, perhaps it will mess up other things though?
Im guessing either way that i will need my system flushed.

I did get some readings today...
Egine cold
ICP, KOEO- I recorded around 12 the first time. after ad initial start I rechecked KOEO icp and watched psi drop from around 30 down to about 18 before cranking.

ICP during crank- 356 psi, the egine started and shot up to 899-903 psi.
the second crank was about the same- the as she idled, psi slowly droped to the 855- 830 psi range.

IPR at crank was 52.1, ad running 14.4. These readings were consistent.

Engine warm-
ICP engine idle - 630 psi
ipr 19.0-19.3%

@2500 rpm ICP 3807 psi, IPR 29.5
This happened once, after the initial acceleration, I was unable to control the throttle, the engine would rev to 3000 rpm, ad then shoot back down to 600rpm. ICP during one of these uncontrolled tests was 1302 psi.

Seems my ICP is awful low at idle. shouldnt it be around 900psi?
FICM was consistent at 48 volts. Anything else I should be checking out?

EDIT: I figured he was a 6.0 guy since thats what he drives. This is my first experience with a non dealer shop, I hate my local dealer service dept and I have always enjoyed doing things myself, but this job seemed a bit too much for me. As a side note, the truck was in the shop for 4 weeks for a 12 hr job max

 

Just because that's what he drives, doesn't in of itself mean he knows his way around it. He should, I can understand this assumption, but unfortunately you just never know.

Now, was he incredibly busy and backed up and that's why it took 4 wks? There really isn't any excuse after 4 wks, doing a half assed job and your having to wait at least another week until it gets fixed.

If he knows his stuff, his work ethic is seriously lacking.

Sorry, it's crap like this that gives the 6.0 the reputation that it has and it isn't deserved.

Sorry about the rant, I'll go back into my cave now.

 

Sounds Like there is a REASON he DONT work at FORD ANYMORE

 

yes he was very busy, its just him and a helper. But my friend who recommended him to me, brought in two trucks during the period my truck was there, and both were fixed before mine.
tex I couldnt agree with you more, my friends have given me more shi... about this than I care to hear, especially my 7.3 friends

 

John did you get the external BPD oil cooler ?

 

yes i did, as well as their upgraded egr cooler.

 

Cricket....cricket. Lol

 

It may be worth the time to find an out of town dealership that
does good job with diesels. After 1 week for a 12Hr job I would of been one
very hot customer. Then being told to come back in a week.
Lets see where is my box of C-4? (not really) But I would
most likely loose my cool.
If you can I would not let the guy try to make it right. I would
get some one else to fix it and send him the bill.

Sean

 

How was the truck driving when you brought it in for the blown EGR cooler?

How confident are you at his repair of the FICM - maybe that isn't his "expertise". I know I don't recommend anyone doing it themselves anymore - FICMRepair,com does such a good job and upgrades critical parts. It just isn't worth the risk trying to do something "precise" that you don't do every day.

If the code really is P2284, make sure your ICP sensor is properly plugged in and has no wire chaffing. Then again, that code could just be from someone trying to start it or run it with the sensor unplugged.

Remembering (or getting) the codes is the best way we can help you.

The coolant thing at this point is more a matter of principle than anything else - since you have an external oil cooler and you haven't driven it much. I would probably drain it and flush it myself instead of waiting for him to get back from vacation (but then you might just end up paying that bill when it should be him)!

 

Those numbers look way out of range to me. With the engine at operating temperature (EOT @ approximately 190*F) you should be seeing an IPR duty cyle of between 21 to 24 %. 19 is way low, as is 630 psi of ICP actual. You should be seeing desired and actual ICP readings of 580 psi at idle in PARK or NEUTRAL. This tells me your IPR valve is likely failing (not uncommon shortly after any repair where the oil cooler has been removed for whatever reason).

 

FWIW when I unplugged the ICP sensor and tried to start it POPPED the good old P2285

P2284 C R Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit
Range/Performance
Default inferred ICP, ICP desired does not equal ICP signal,
difference of 362psi/2.5mpa.
See diagnostic manual - ICP system


P2284 Often is a HPO Flow issue or IPR or leak

Im with Mike on this IPR could be trashed

 

From your ICP & IPR% numbers it looks like IPR Screen is Plugged

You might be able to just install a New IPR screen NOW but if you Drive it the IPR will Blow out

 

The truck had a real lack of power and kept giving me egr codes, even after cleaning the egr. finally it started smoking white, randomly and at start up as well as loss of coolant. It had hard start issues as well, FICM was bad and this tech told me when he was in the motor the hpop fitting was leaking. Also I should have specified, he put a new top half of the FICM in, not repaired. I was expecting it to be repaired, apparently there was a misunderstanding between us...

Checked the code again and it is in fact p2284. From a search i found a post from cheezit that says this code relates to the IPR not the icp.

I went ahead and rescanned the ipr and icp readings. Ill be honest, I dont think the engine was warm as in 186ect. I was looking at the dash temp guage for engine temp not my new scII. dumb.

So new readings at 186 ect, truck in park:
ICP idle- 875 ---@2500rpm 1008-1029 psi
IPR Idle- 31 ---@2500rpm 33.1

Like I said before, it is impossible to get an accurate reading @2500rpm. The truck just goes to idle or shoots to 3000 rpm when I give a little throttle. I took a video while testing Ill try to post it.

So now, at the correct temp, it seems both ipr and icp are too high?

I feel like an idiot for posting numbers when the tuck probably wasnt fully warmed up, my apologies.

 

here is the video. Watching it I noticed the dash boost gauge does not move at all. I tried setting up my boost gauge on scII followed their procedure and it still wont read right, says 44 psi at KOEO. not sure if that messes with the factory gauge though.
In the video Im trying to hold at 2500 rpm

 

Your ICP is way High for HOT Idel

Since IPR controls ICP the IPR Screen could be plugged

a plugged IPR Screen would also cause RPM Surge



IF you keep Running it the IPR is going to Blow Out