Won't start
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New User
Joined: Jul 2012
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Won't start
My 95 powerstroke manual sometimes won't start. It eventually will but sometimes takes up to ten tries. When it doesn't start nothing happens no cranking no nothing. But when it does start its starts like a champ. Clutch is always floored. Can't figure out a common denominator to my problem. Anyone have any ideas?? Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
My 95 powerstroke manual sometimes won't start. It eventually will but sometimes takes up to ten tries. When it doesn't start nothing happens no cranking no nothing. But when it does start its starts like a champ. Clutch is always floored. Can't figure out a common denominator to my problem. Anyone have any ideas?? Thanks
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 970
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From: Northeast Ohio
first off it check all your connections from the battery terminals to the terminals on the starter and make sure they are all clean and tight don't for get the grounds and were they connect to the frame.
Is there any noise at all like relays or solenoids clicking or is it literally nothing at all and does the dash light up and everything like it should run and just doesnt?
Is there any noise at all like relays or solenoids clicking or is it literally nothing at all and does the dash light up and everything like it should run and just doesnt?
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New User
Joined: Jul 2012
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Everything lights up. Wait for the "start" light to go off and then nothing. No clicks or anything. Everything on the dash lights up like it should. Sometimes it seems like it starts more frequently if I step on the brake ad clutch as hard as possible.
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 970
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From: Northeast Ohio
make sure the connection is clean is it from ford or is it from auto zone it could be a bad switch
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
I guess maybe you could try jumping the switch over before you buy one, to see if that's the problem. Just make sure you have it in neutral when you try to start it!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
It's on the rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the firewall.
Next time you get a no start, leave the key turned all the way to the start position and start moving the clutch in and out a little like you're trying to feather the friction point.
If you can get the starter to catch, click or give you some sort of indication while doing that, the switch is likely your problem. Jumping the wires would work too.
Next time you get a no start, leave the key turned all the way to the start position and start moving the clutch in and out a little like you're trying to feather the friction point.
If you can get the starter to catch, click or give you some sort of indication while doing that, the switch is likely your problem. Jumping the wires would work too.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
To the OP, if it helps when you push the brake pedal, what you're probably doing is repositioning the clutch pedal slightly by doing so. The shaft for the clutch pedal goes _through_ the pivot for the brake pedal, and the bushings there, the legendary "pedal box bushings", are probably worn. As a result, when you push the clutch in, it's not fully pushing the hydraulic pushrod, which is where the switch is located. It's sometimes accompanied by difficulty getting the tranny into gear while the engine is running, and the truck "creeping" a little in gear even with the clutch floored.
Try this - rest your right foot lightly on the brake pedal (no pressure), and push the clutch pedal. If you feel any "feedback" in your right foot, that means the pedal box bushings are worn.
The other bushing that causes this is the one between the "****" on the lever at the other end of that shaft and the pushrod eyelet.
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