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HI all I am new to this forum and to diesels. I currently own a 2003 F250 xlt with the 7.3l with right at 250k on the clock. I have had it as my DD for around 6 months.
So far I have fixed a leaky fuel bowl, leaking ICP sensor and the harness. Flushed the coolant.Changed oil and fuel filter, CCV mod,zoo dad/6637. Thats about it so far.
Found a new oil leak recently and have it narrowed down to pedistal or EBPV so am planning on gathering supplies to just delete the ebpv and do the o'rings. MY question is what parts do I need to delete the butterfly in the exhaust housing?DO I just cut it out and plug it? I have not found to many pics or post showing or describing that part of the process.I am trying to get this job completed for as cheap as possible.
Thanks for the great forum. I have been lurking here for over a year and the great advice here has helped me to get a great pickup for a great price!!
Riff Raff has Garrett non ebpv housings for 94.80. Has blank pedestals also. Check them out. Has pretty much everything you need for your truck, and hard to beat prices with service second to none.
Thanks for the replies fellows. I have looked at those options and I am thinking of just plugging the pedistal and trying to plug the outlet. I am trying to spend the money on a turbo rebuild kit and wicked wheel and front brakes.
I am thinking if i can just plug the current pedistals leak, if that is where it is leaking that would only cost 10 bucks or less. Then maybe that much again to gut and plug the exhaust housing. so $20 vs $150+.... Can I just plug the stock housing with a bolt or what should I use?
Just a thought: I tow in the mountains and my tuner uses the EBPV for a compression brake to go easy on the wheel brakes. The EBPV closes in the cold weather to warm the truck up faster. If you have no need for these benefits, the delete is one less thing to go wrong later.
Just a thought: I tow in the mountains and my tuner uses the EBPV for a compression brake to go easy on the wheel brakes. The EBPV closes in the cold weather to warm the truck up faster. If you have no need for these benefits, the delete is one less thing to go wrong later.
How is that EBPV brake working for you? I have heard some horror stories. I have no need for one, so the delete in near the bottom of a very long to do list.
Horror stories? It works fantastic for me, I'm awash with kibosh when I select that tune. That being said, don't downshift into 2 or 1, and don't shift in and out of it to get your speed back up. Just turn the OD off (if needed) and select the decel tune, you'll hear the hiss of the "Snake Brake". Touch the skinny pedal as needed to keep your speed up if the slope isn't quite steep enough. The reason I don't downshift? The backpressure can get so high that it can jam the EBPV (no boost) and the only remedy is to stop, kill the engine, and restart.
OP- I did my own delete and saved a bunch of $$$. Yeah the ready made ones are nice, and I've actually done both. On my e99 turbo, I pulled the valve, and then tried to tap the top hole but it was just to get the 3/8" plug started. I ran it in a few threads and welded it in. I just unplugged the actuator and ran like that for thousands of miles.
Once I converted to a Van turbo, I bought a new delete pedestal, can't remember if it was from Riff Raff or Rons Turbo on ebay- both great sources and both ship stupid fast. I also once bought a EBPV equipped pedestal on epay for like $20, cleaned it new like, gutted it, and plugged it, and sold it for about a $30 profit.
Now that I tow heavy with my truck- I pull a 3 car wedge and gross up to 32k- I wanted a SNAKE BRAKE like TUGLY mentioned. But with the van outlet, the only thing that would fit is the 97 and earlier outlet, so back to ebay for one. I gutted it, flipped the valve so I can acutate it from the top, welded a 1/4" rod around the circumference of the outlet so the 3.5" outlet would match my 4" downpipe, and fabbed up a mount so I can actuate it atthe hit of a switch with an air cylinder. Works like a charm!