How Important is the Kickdown Rod?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
How Important is the Kickdown Rod?
Do I really need one for an FMX? I have been looking around and apparently those things as made of pure gold. Most on Ebay want anywhere from $40-$100 for one. I'm tempted to try to make one myself if I really need it. Will the transmission shift okay if I leave the kickdown rod off? 
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
Here is my opinion Vern. It will shift, but won't downshift under a load.
I know this means nothing, but I had a'78 Bronco C6, it didn't have a kickdown when I bought it. It wasn't long and I burnt the friction plates up. Was it close to dying? I don't know. But that was what the tranny guy blamed it on.
I would be gentle with it, but not do without it for long.
This is an opinion, no guarantees expressed or implied, do not attempt this at home as some stunts can be dangerous to you progress...and can damage your wallet!
I know this means nothing, but I had a'78 Bronco C6, it didn't have a kickdown when I bought it. It wasn't long and I burnt the friction plates up. Was it close to dying? I don't know. But that was what the tranny guy blamed it on.
I would be gentle with it, but not do without it for long.
This is an opinion, no guarantees expressed or implied, do not attempt this at home as some stunts can be dangerous to you progress...and can damage your wallet!
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
If memory serves me right, you can pull the shift lever down and force the downshift. Even hold it in second or intermediate so long as the lever is down. Been a long time since I've driven one. Someone will correct me if I am wrong.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
but I've hauled a few of them to the scrap yard years past. Interesting that I just yesterday, adjusted the kick down on the C6 in my 73 CS.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
I believe that the rod not only forces a kickdown, but to some degree modulates pressures on some of the circuits.
Believe it or not I believe I have the kickdown from an FMX, let me look and get back to you.
Believe it or not I believe I have the kickdown from an FMX, let me look and get back to you.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,068
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From: Moyie, BC Canada
You can also use a cable to substitute for the rod. I've been running my Cobra for 20 years with out the kick down with no problems, mind you, I have never needed to kick it down a gear with the strongly built 429. When the secondary venturies kick in that is all it needs to get moving, the car is fairly light. It shifts manually quite nicely.
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Joined: May 2012
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From: North Idaho
I made one once for a guy and it went like this.
First try, I used 1/4 rod, carefully bent it to fit up the back of the bellhouseing right to the carb linkage, welded on a 3 or 4 inch piece of flat stock (slotted for the carb linkage) and thought I was done,,,,wrong.
The 1/4 rod flexed too much when we mashed down on the pedal and it would cycle in and out of 2nd.
So, I made the entire bar again, thic time out of 7/16 cold rolled rod, welded a short section of 1/4 to the tranny end (to fit the kickdown lever) and the same slotted flat stock at the carb end,,,this time it worked great.
It wasn't hard to do, it just took several trips under the car marking the bends and twists needed, a bit of welding and we were in buisness.
Gary
First try, I used 1/4 rod, carefully bent it to fit up the back of the bellhouseing right to the carb linkage, welded on a 3 or 4 inch piece of flat stock (slotted for the carb linkage) and thought I was done,,,,wrong.
The 1/4 rod flexed too much when we mashed down on the pedal and it would cycle in and out of 2nd.
So, I made the entire bar again, thic time out of 7/16 cold rolled rod, welded a short section of 1/4 to the tranny end (to fit the kickdown lever) and the same slotted flat stock at the carb end,,,this time it worked great.
It wasn't hard to do, it just took several trips under the car marking the bends and twists needed, a bit of welding and we were in buisness.
Gary
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I made one once for a guy and it went like this.
First try, I used 1/4 rod, carefully bent it to fit up the back of the bellhouseing right to the carb linkage, welded on a 3 or 4 inch piece of flat stock (slotted for the carb linkage) and thought I was done,,,,wrong.
The 1/4 rod flexed too much when we mashed down on the pedal and it would cycle in and out of 2nd.
So, I made the entire bar again, thic time out of 7/16 cold rolled rod, welded a short section of 1/4 to the tranny end (to fit the kickdown lever) and the same slotted flat stock at the carb end,,,this time it worked great.
It wasn't hard to do, it just took several trips under the car marking the bends and twists needed, a bit of welding and we were in buisness.
Gary
First try, I used 1/4 rod, carefully bent it to fit up the back of the bellhouseing right to the carb linkage, welded on a 3 or 4 inch piece of flat stock (slotted for the carb linkage) and thought I was done,,,,wrong.
The 1/4 rod flexed too much when we mashed down on the pedal and it would cycle in and out of 2nd.
So, I made the entire bar again, thic time out of 7/16 cold rolled rod, welded a short section of 1/4 to the tranny end (to fit the kickdown lever) and the same slotted flat stock at the carb end,,,this time it worked great.
It wasn't hard to do, it just took several trips under the car marking the bends and twists needed, a bit of welding and we were in buisness.
Gary
Thanks. That sounds doable if I can't locate an original rod...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
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