Please help: ect fail - cooling problem
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Please help: ect fail - cooling problem
Ok, I have searched through many past posts but need to confirm that I am not going to kill my truck.
I replaced my water pump after it blew out on me. I could not remove the ECT from the old pump so I replaced it with a BWD (part # WT3058) from O'reill'ys. I was forced to get a murray thermostat as I had no other choice at the time (part # 4269). The truck had green coolant, I flushed and refilled with PrimaTech red ELC.
So here is my question. There is no reading on the water temp gauge. I am not getting heat in the truck after running it for several minutes. I might be hearing things but I think I am hearing the sound of metal expanding in the engine compartment. I know metal expands and all that but I can't tell if it is abnormal. I am concerned I messed something up or one of the parts is bad and by driving it to go get new (motorcraft this time) parts I might over heat the truck and cause much much worse damage.
How do I know I am not overheating if the gauge is not functioning and I have no heat? Is it possible there is an air blockage in the cooling system?
Please, any help would be awesome!!!
I replaced my water pump after it blew out on me. I could not remove the ECT from the old pump so I replaced it with a BWD (part # WT3058) from O'reill'ys. I was forced to get a murray thermostat as I had no other choice at the time (part # 4269). The truck had green coolant, I flushed and refilled with PrimaTech red ELC.
So here is my question. There is no reading on the water temp gauge. I am not getting heat in the truck after running it for several minutes. I might be hearing things but I think I am hearing the sound of metal expanding in the engine compartment. I know metal expands and all that but I can't tell if it is abnormal. I am concerned I messed something up or one of the parts is bad and by driving it to go get new (motorcraft this time) parts I might over heat the truck and cause much much worse damage.
How do I know I am not overheating if the gauge is not functioning and I have no heat? Is it possible there is an air blockage in the cooling system?
Please, any help would be awesome!!!
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update::
Cold air is coming out like the AC is on even though the dial on the dash is set on Hot. The AC compressor is pumping and there is a lot of condensation on the hoses to and from the AC unit. does the AC compressor usually do that even when the AC in the truck is not on?
Cold air is coming out like the AC is on even though the dial on the dash is set on Hot. The AC compressor is pumping and there is a lot of condensation on the hoses to and from the AC unit. does the AC compressor usually do that even when the AC in the truck is not on?
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OK. Heat returned after miles of driving.
My water temp gauge however is not working. The dealer said the gauge is bad as there is no response in the gauge when the ECT plug is disconnected. Apparently the needle on the indicator should go all the way to hot when removed while the ignition is on. Mine had no response and I was told that the whole instrument panel needs to be replaced (~$500). I can put in an after market gauge but before that I want to see if there are any connection issues related to popping the plug off and moving it out of the way while working on the pump that might be causing the problem
I was reading earlier about a unit called a bridge or something that can go bad located behind the dash but I cant find the thread now. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
My water temp gauge however is not working. The dealer said the gauge is bad as there is no response in the gauge when the ECT plug is disconnected. Apparently the needle on the indicator should go all the way to hot when removed while the ignition is on. Mine had no response and I was told that the whole instrument panel needs to be replaced (~$500). I can put in an after market gauge but before that I want to see if there are any connection issues related to popping the plug off and moving it out of the way while working on the pump that might be causing the problem
I was reading earlier about a unit called a bridge or something that can go bad located behind the dash but I cant find the thread now. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
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Haha... sorry, rookie move. I was in a rush this morning and assumed my truck info was appended.
2001 7.3 PSD. Automatic, 2WD
Cold air intake
5" turbo-back exhaust
3.08 *mileage* gears
Custom UCC torque converter with high torque triple disc lockup clutches
Custom programing
New 02+ throttle pedal (increased response)
Modified Wastegate actuator for 24psi boost
2001 7.3 PSD. Automatic, 2WD
Cold air intake
5" turbo-back exhaust
3.08 *mileage* gears
Custom UCC torque converter with high torque triple disc lockup clutches
Custom programing
New 02+ throttle pedal (increased response)
Modified Wastegate actuator for 24psi boost
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From: SW Virginia
Haha... sorry, rookie move. I was in a rush this morning and assumed my truck info was appended.
2001 7.3 PSD. Automatic, 2WD
Cold air intake
5" turbo-back exhaust
3.08 *mileage* gears
Custom UCC torque converter with high torque triple disc lockup clutches
Custom programing
New 02+ throttle pedal (increased response)
Modified Wastegate actuator for 24psi boost
2001 7.3 PSD. Automatic, 2WD
Cold air intake
5" turbo-back exhaust
3.08 *mileage* gears
Custom UCC torque converter with high torque triple disc lockup clutches
Custom programing
New 02+ throttle pedal (increased response)
Modified Wastegate actuator for 24psi boost
I'm going to move your thread down to the 1999 - 2003 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel forum. You should get a better response from these guys.
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Welcome, he sent you to the right place, sounds like sending unit on motor, and not the right thermostat, go to Ford and get thermo, no were else, unless it's OEM. Also check the diskk looking thing were the heater hose goes thru fire wall, there's a vacume hose that goes on it on some years, if there is one. it controls water flow for heater. Others will chime in.
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Thanks for the welcome!
I think there was a serious bubble in the heater core that dislodged after 10 miles or so. I am glad to report I have heat.
Now I am wondering if there is any other explanation for the water temp gauge not responding. I have removed the plug from the ECT sensor, shorted it with a paper clip and tried grounding it and cant get the needle to move.
I think there was a serious bubble in the heater core that dislodged after 10 miles or so. I am glad to report I have heat.
Now I am wondering if there is any other explanation for the water temp gauge not responding. I have removed the plug from the ECT sensor, shorted it with a paper clip and tried grounding it and cant get the needle to move.
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