E4OD Transmission Won't Shift with Acceleration
I did have it rebuilt only after about 70K miles from brand new. So I think that should have corrected all the factory original problems.
Anybody here had similar problem before or knows what went wrong again on this lousy transmission?
Thanks!
BTW, there is no transmission related codes stored when scanned.
Since it's about time to change fluid/filter, I did it yesterday. I didn't find much debris on the magnet. So I think it's a good sign I may not have any serious problems.

After this, I think it runs normal now. From full stop, it will shift around 3000 rpm with pressing gas. Since I used Lucas Transmission Fix before this, I really don't know how much contribution Lucas did.
I think my problem is caused by either restricted flow/clogged filter, or sticky valves inside.
I used to have another problem with this transmission: I can hear/feel it shutters at around 42 mph. Now this problem is gone too.
Did you drain the torque converter also?
Dit the old gasket on top of filter neck come out
What codes are you getting in KOEO and CM?
You have replaced the VSS and MLPS?
Battery cables are good?
Checked the transmission harness for bare spots? Start at two connectors against fire wall under master cylinder. Runs down driver's frame, crosses over to MLPS then over the top to the solenoid pack connector on passenger rear of transmission under the heat shield. Not rubbing the front driveshaft? Connectors are clean?
Engine is good, no codes, vacuum leaks, recent oxygen sensor?
If you answered "yes" to above that leaves solenoid pack or PCM.
I suggest sending the original PCM to ECMTOGO.COM. My shift points were above 2,000 in recent years around town. After the PCM rebuild at 40 mph light throttle it shifts to 1,200 rpm. Runs like new at 196K.
You know how to drop the pan so you can replace the solenoid pack yourself. However, it cost about $100 more than the PCM even if you reuse the same fluid. With no debris in the pan and the way it is acting I am guessing the problem is electrical. On mine I replaced the solenoid pack twice then solved it with PCM rebuild.
So I had to pay AAMCO to do it for me. Yes, they told and showed me the aluminum parts Ford used on the main shaft of this transmission! They also told me Ford don't even sell the original parts anymore. They call their new parts "heavy duty updates".
Yes, I drained the torque converter and filled with 13 qt of fluid afterwards.
The o-ring on the old filter is a little bit loose but it still stays there. I only have one 334 code now and will fix it later.
Yes, the MLPS is new.
I think my problem is fixed for now and the problem is the filter. With an old filter restricts flow, the pump can't generate enough pressure to operate the shifting mechanism.
I have a new/refurbished PCM, I think from the same place you mentioned. When it's gone last time, the car was running crazy...
I think it shift around 2000 rpm too if I don't press gas too hard (floor it).
Since I drive a Volvo C70 most of the time now, I may just forget how a real Bronco moves... :-)
Did you drain the torque converter also?
Dit the old gasket on top of filter neck come out
What codes are you getting in KOEO and CM?
You have replaced the VSS and MLPS?
Battery cables are good?
Checked the transmission harness for bare spots? Start at two connectors against fire wall under master cylinder. Runs down driver's frame, crosses over to MLPS then over the top to the solenoid pack connector on passenger rear of transmission under the heat shield. Not rubbing the front driveshaft? Connectors are clean?
Engine is good, no codes, vacuum leaks, recent oxygen sensor?
If you answered "yes" to above that leaves solenoid pack or PCM.
I suggest sending the original PCM to ECMTOGO.COM. My shift points were above 2,000 in recent years around town. After the PCM rebuild at 40 mph light throttle it shifts to 1,200 rpm. Runs like new at 196K.
You know how to drop the pan so you can replace the solenoid pack yourself. However, it cost about $100 more than the PCM even if you reuse the same fluid. With no debris in the pan and the way it is acting I am guessing the problem is electrical. On mine I replaced the solenoid pack twice then solved it with PCM rebuild.
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Glad you go it going. When thinking about the goo in the filter I am a fan of dropping the pan and also draining the TC rather than flushing.
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