I have a 92 XLT F-150 that won't shift from 2H into 4H. It has auto hubs and one of them is making a "baseball-card-in-the-bicycle-spokes" sound. It also gets very hot when driving a distance.

 

Are you saying the transfer case does not shift, or the front hubs wont engage.

If it is the transfer case not shifting then the first thing would be to check all of your fuses and the connection to the solenoid on the T-case. If all is good then replace the solenoid.

If the t-case is engaging and not the hubs then it maybe the solenoids for the hubs. the easiest fix for the hubs is to put in a set of manual hubs. That is what I would do any way. the clicking maybe be caused by a sticking solenoid on the hub, it may also be cause by a damaged hub assy. you need to pull the hub apart to check it. While you are in there you might as well pull it down and check and lube your bearings

matt

 

Is there any chance you can produce a picture of said solenoid???? This I gotta see!!!

 

The transfer case won't shift - at least I don't think it is - I can get the shifter to move a little but it won't go any further. I will take the hubs off and check the fuses and solinoid like you said.

 

Well what do you call the device that engages and disengages the hubs, Magic.

 

So you have a manual shifter but automatic hubs?

 

Mechanical force.....

Cut from my Ford Service Manual:

Locking Hubs

The hub locks on Bronco and F-150-250-350 4x4 vehicles equipped with four-wheel drive, either automatically or manually actuate the front driving axle. When actuated, the hub lock body locks the hub and wheel (1007) and tire assembly to the halfshaft (3A329). When released, the axleshaft is disengaged from the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) and the wheel rotates freely on the front wheel spindle (3105).

The Touch Drive 4x4 system allows the driver to engage four-wheel drive at the touch of a button instead of pulling a shift lever. This button is connected to an electronic control module which controls the functions necessary to engage the transfer case (7A195).

When the 4x4 button is depressed, the electronic control module energizes the electronic clutch coil in the transfer case. This accelerates the front axle shafts up to the same speed as the front wheels. As the axle shafts begin to rotate, they engage the automatic hub locks located at each wheel end. After approximately 5 seconds, the transfer case clutch coil turns off. A stepper motor located on the back of the transfer case then locks up the transfer case via a camming mechanism and a locking collar. The entire sequence takes only a few seconds.

To disengage the transfer case, again depress the 4x4 button. This will unlock the transfer case but the automatic hubs will remain locked. To unlock the hubs, back-up the vehicle for at least 10 feet, then continue in the original direction. Because the front axle has been disengaged from the transfer case, the hubs will remain unlocked.

 

Well there you go, my 06 was different, it had a solenoid for the hubs and you didn't have to back upo to disengage. But then I never had to mess with that truck because it was new. I stand corrected. Now wasn't it just as easy to correct instead of mock? But either way it doesn't really matter brcause he has a manula shift lever.

Matt

 

I never said 4x4 - I did say automatic with 4wd.

 

Whether the transfer case is electric or manually actuated the auto hubs work the same. No mocking here, just a little educating

 

Auto hubs are junk. Sounds like yours are trashed, mine are on their way out too. I plan on replacing them with manual ones. I have a manual shift transfer case by the way, I replaced my electric shift model with a manual one I pulled from a truck in the yard and rebuilt it. Works great, aint ever owning an electric shift tcase ever again. Or auto hubs, lol.

 

I'm going to replace the auto hubs with manual and go from there.

 

If the transfercase lever doesn't move, try hitting all the linkage points with some good penetrating lubricant from underneath. It is very common for the bushings and pivot points to seize up, and trying to force the lever will just break it.

 

I'll try that - thanks.