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I replaced my oil cooler a few months ago and I reached a eot of 230 yesterday, are you kidding me. I flushed the sh#% out of it before the new one was put in so I just don't get it. So I guess it looks like maybe yet another oil cooler?? I have heard that it is easier to flush a newer cooler than one with 30 or 50k on it. Any good suggestions??? I really don't want to tear into it again
My ect was right around 206 and 208 ( outside temp here in phx was like 112 or 113) so ect was 208 and eot was 231. My cold soak is always the same on both!! Do you think it could be a oil temp sensor?
Slowly been getting higher! That's what's making me think its clogged again, I just don't see how. Its only a few months old and I don't drive the truck that much so it doesn't have many miles on the new cooler
Kinda sounds like a bad oil cooler BUT IDK I would rule everything eles out first
Both ect & eot being the same after cold soak says about 98% chance them temp senders are OK but 2% says they might be off and read wrong as they get hot
Try to back flush the Sh#$ o out of it for one than 1 hour see if it improve any. Do a search on backflush and you'll see how some really detail procedures.
I recently changed the oil cooler/egr cooler myself, your issue scare the p$%& out of me
I flushed the crap out of it. Pulled the t-stat flushed with vc9 and a ton of distilled water then put the new cooler in! I don't have a filter but I promise if I pull this cooler out I will have one for the new one. One good thing is that the oil cooler is covered threw the dealer so it won't cost me as much as the first time, just my time and a few beers lol
I even took apart at all hose connections and stuffed garden hose in it let it run water threw it if you stick water hose in at thermostat let it run that reverse flushes the block
did same with heater stuck hose on the heater return line under coolant bottle and reverse flushed that
pull lower hose each flush too amazing how mush dirt hides there
Also pull thermostat and run the VC-9 and set truck to high Idel in driveway (1100RPM) for 1 to 1.5 hours high idel driveway this worked the best
Also Me personaly have noticed coolant filters been lasting longer with ELC they didnt last long with the ford gold coolant I would cut the filters open with the gold and there wouldnt be anything i could see plugging the filter but the coolant filter return Line was cold so I knew the filter plugged up
I run ELC called Final Charge thats CAT EC-1 Silicate Free Extended Life Coolant
I went the extra ,mile cleaning my coolant system out I did a day flushing with cleaners the works put back together put coolant filter on ran 5K with the filter on and then did another day of flushing VC-9 again water hose deal block drains pulled the works and this time I changed oil cooler went to ELC and 15K since temps as good as the day the Oil Cooler was New
Well, if the dealer warranty it then just a few more days without the truck and a case of import beer for the tech who'll do the oil cooler swap and you'll good to go.
To try and avoid this problem, I am putting in a external oil cooler kit and a coolant filter to make it both run cooler and easier to change, it looks like a 20min install once the kit is in. It will mount next to the radiator and p/u coolant from there.
Change the sensor it is the cheepest and easy to get at, what can it hurt. And if you clogged another cooler switch to ELC and avoid the silicant problem , Did I see some where on another blogg that Ford is putting a core charge on the oil cooler ? Is that there way of avoiding a law suite for what should be a recall item.
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