hawk brake pads?
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2011
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i wasnt the last one to drive it so i wouldnt know if they failed or not but my buddy said that they quit working which i would assume was becuase the master cylinder ran out of fluid from the broken dust boot? ok so onto the next question, are there any good aftermarket rotor brands someone would suggest thats in between $200-300 range for a pair?im thinking i want to get some slotted ones.i am also going to buy a reman caliper because one of the pistons was slightly melted on the edge.
so all together im probably looking at :
reman caliper - $50
rotors - $200/300
pads - $60
someone was telling me i should get new wheel bearing but i havent checked mine so what do you guys recommend?also can someone let me know how to remove the rotors?
so all together im probably looking at :
reman caliper - $50
rotors - $200/300
pads - $60
someone was telling me i should get new wheel bearing but i havent checked mine so what do you guys recommend?also can someone let me know how to remove the rotors?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 2
From: Poway, CA
First, check RockAuto Auto Parts for parts. Some of those seem high, and their prices on brake parts are crazy good.
To get the rotor off, pop off the dust cap (circular thing in the middle). Under that should me a castellated nut and cotter pin. Pull those off, then remove the rotor. Bearings will pop out. Clean them up (gas works well) and check for pitting/scoring/bluing/rough spinning. Check races in the rotor for the same. Well, scratch that. Check the races in the new rotor, which is to say make sure they come with (most do).
Pack well with grease when re-installing. Assembly is reverse of removal. tighten the castellated nut all the way, then back off a half turn. Rotor should spin freely. A new cotter pin is not a bad idea as well.
Might be time to pick up a Haynes manual at this point just to walk you through it.
Mike
To get the rotor off, pop off the dust cap (circular thing in the middle). Under that should me a castellated nut and cotter pin. Pull those off, then remove the rotor. Bearings will pop out. Clean them up (gas works well) and check for pitting/scoring/bluing/rough spinning. Check races in the rotor for the same. Well, scratch that. Check the races in the new rotor, which is to say make sure they come with (most do).
Pack well with grease when re-installing. Assembly is reverse of removal. tighten the castellated nut all the way, then back off a half turn. Rotor should spin freely. A new cotter pin is not a bad idea as well.
Might be time to pick up a Haynes manual at this point just to walk you through it.
Mike
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 1
From: CT
I think i got calipers for $30 on rock auto with no core charge. Rotors you can get for 50 a pop. You can get centrics power slot rotors if you want an upgrade. Don't go cheap on the pads your price range sounds reasonable for that.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
First, check RockAuto Auto Parts for parts. Some of those seem high, and their prices on brake parts are crazy good.
To get the rotor off, pop off the dust cap (circular thing in the middle). Under that should me a castellated nut and cotter pin. Pull those off, then remove the rotor. Bearings will pop out. Clean them up (gas works well) and check for pitting/scoring/bluing/rough spinning. Check races in the rotor for the same. Well, scratch that. Check the races in the new rotor, which is to say make sure they come with (most do).
Pack well with grease when re-installing. Assembly is reverse of removal. tighten the castellated nut all the way, then back off a half turn. Rotor should spin freely. A new cotter pin is not a bad idea as well.
Might be time to pick up a Haynes manual at this point just to walk you through it.
Mike
To get the rotor off, pop off the dust cap (circular thing in the middle). Under that should me a castellated nut and cotter pin. Pull those off, then remove the rotor. Bearings will pop out. Clean them up (gas works well) and check for pitting/scoring/bluing/rough spinning. Check races in the rotor for the same. Well, scratch that. Check the races in the new rotor, which is to say make sure they come with (most do).
Pack well with grease when re-installing. Assembly is reverse of removal. tighten the castellated nut all the way, then back off a half turn. Rotor should spin freely. A new cotter pin is not a bad idea as well.
Might be time to pick up a Haynes manual at this point just to walk you through it.
Mike
For a 4wd you have to remove the hub lockouts, then loosen the bearing nuts to remove the hub and rotor together. You can buy new rotor and hub assemblies, or just the rotor itself. If you buy just the rotor, you have to press the wheel studs out of the existing rotor/hub assembly, then separate the hub and rotor, put the new rotor on the hub, and press the studs back in.
You'll definitely want to at least look it up online and find a good write up, or get a haynes or chiltons manual that lays out all the steps for you. You'll also need the proper socket to remove the nuts that hold the bearings in place.
I thought it was pretty bad when the pad fell out the last time I drove my ranger (by last I mean I parked it and haven't driven it since)... That is horrible neglect, I'm not sure how you or anyone else wouldn't have noticed the horrible noise it had to have been making for quite some time to have that kind of wear!
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2011
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ya quite honestly i dont know how it didnt make more noise than it did. it just started making metal on metal noised about two weeks ago and i had to drive it while my car was down for a week, other than that there were no noises since i have owned the truck only a slightly mushy pedal. it might just be me but im pretty sure that takes time to wear a rotor down that badly so it was probably bad when i bought it or already on its way out
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,360
Likes: 821
From: Mi'kma'ki
check this out.
if you get their "Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors" you get lifetime warranty against cracking and warping.
Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
click on the warranty info there on the right side to see about the other rotors.looks like drilled ones are 2 yr warranty.so evidently dimpled hold up better.
looks like a decent enough price too.comes with a set of pads to boot.
i think im gunna order these.i like the idea of dimpled rather than drilled all the way through.never heard of that before,but haven't started looking for decent rotors before either.
no more warped rotors and pulsating pedal sure sounds nice to me.$180 for the set w/ lifetime warranty/unlimited miles.be the last set we'd have to buy.kinda hard to beat isn't it?
edit,
ok it appears to be a centric (stoptech / powerslotpart) part number.
they appear to be decent.
if you get their "Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors" you get lifetime warranty against cracking and warping.
Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors
click on the warranty info there on the right side to see about the other rotors.looks like drilled ones are 2 yr warranty.so evidently dimpled hold up better.
looks like a decent enough price too.comes with a set of pads to boot.
i think im gunna order these.i like the idea of dimpled rather than drilled all the way through.never heard of that before,but haven't started looking for decent rotors before either.
no more warped rotors and pulsating pedal sure sounds nice to me.$180 for the set w/ lifetime warranty/unlimited miles.be the last set we'd have to buy.kinda hard to beat isn't it?
edit,
ok it appears to be a centric (stoptech / powerslotpart) part number.
they appear to be decent.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2011
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damn i wish i would have seen this sooner i was up all night last night thinking about my truck and what i have money to fix right this second. these are the rotors i ordered WAGNER BD61910 Front Brake Rotor/Disc | eBay
i also noticed when i bought my truck that after i shut it off that it hisses and i think its either the brake booster or the check valve so i might just buy a brake booster if the valve is fine. i also might do all my front wheel bearings seeing as im going to be replacing the rotors
i also noticed when i bought my truck that after i shut it off that it hisses and i think its either the brake booster or the check valve so i might just buy a brake booster if the valve is fine. i also might do all my front wheel bearings seeing as im going to be replacing the rotors
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,942
Likes: 13
Hissing would be indicitive of a vacuum leak, which would provide a perfectly good reason to have a hard pedal and poor braking, even considering the shape your pad and rotor were in.
Talking of good brakes... i miss asbestos
Talking of good brakes... i miss asbestos
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
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From: Norco,CA
Chet
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2011
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can someone tell me how much brake fluid i will need to buy and if i need dot 3 or 5? mines completely empty since i removed my brake caliper, also will i need to bench bleed my mc or can i leave it on and just bleed the brakes?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,061
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dot 3 fluid. not sure on how much. if you are installing a new master cylinder then yes, you must bench bleed, but if you are not installing a new mc then no need to bench bleed. unless of course it get drained dry.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 2
From: Poway, CA
No bench bleeding necessary unless you're replacing the master as well. Might as well flush the whole thing. I think I used two of the larger bottles. Skip the DOT5 IMHO. Start at the right rear wheel cylinder and work your way towards the front. The idea is to start farthest from the master and work your way back to it. Don't forget the the valve on the rear ABS thingy on the drivers side frame rail.
This guy from Harbor Freight makes it really easy. Brake Fluid Bleeder
You'll need a compressor, though.
Mike
This guy from Harbor Freight makes it really easy. Brake Fluid Bleeder
You'll need a compressor, though.
Mike