i would just buy the gallon jug of brake fluid. dot 3 is specified, but i use dot 4, as its compatible and has a higher boiling point (and thus is better). you won't need the whole gallon, but it costs less than 2 quart bottles, so why not.

 

i like reverse pressure bleeders. every vacuum bleeder i have used just pumped more air in the system than it got out. the reverse pressure bleeder works MUCH FASTER as well.

 

its not completely dry but its not covering both of the holes in the mc. i dont have a air compressor so i will have to have a friend help me, so it goes RR,LR,abs thingy,RF,LF?

 

yes sir

 

You'll be there a while at the right rear waiting for fresh fluid, but everything after that should go quick.

Mike

 

Hey do I need a special tool to remove the nut inside the hub? I though I seen something online saying I need some special tool but I can't find it now and I only have the haynes engine manual. I'm just trying to figure it out before I start removing crap and don't have a parts store near me to rent tools

 

you'll need a socket to remove the spindle nut.
my D50 used:
1/2 dr.4 lug internal 75mm X 80mm locknut socket.
Dana 50 front axle.
(tool sticker says 85-95)

GreatNeck #33625966

sold at autozone.

i started putting mine on today.these things look pretty nice.i did order those ones in post #23.
it's going to feel nice to press the pedal and not shake rattle and roll anymore lol.man i hate warped rotors! it probably hasn't helped fuel economy all this time either (they've been warped for well over a year now.)
i decided to go with new wheel bearings since i was in there.had to run an hour and half away (one way) cus the local AZ didn't have all the timkens i needed.i should have thought of it earlier.i was about to repack them for the second or third time now,but since im nearing 100k and i have the front dually adapters all unbolted to replace rotors.....now is the time (outside bearing felt like it was starting to near it's end.inner felt great still though,ah well.) one side just about all back together though.will be all finished up in a few more hours (tomorrow) now i have all the parts for both sides.

how ya making out there blu?


edit,and just for the heck of it,since i have 'em handy:
D50/D60 timken #'s:
timken SET38 Outer bearing ("set" meaning it includes the race.why doesn't the inner? lol i dunno.i guess it might not ware much.neither of my races looked worthly of replacing,though i did anyway.)
timken 387A Inner bearing
timken 382A Inner race
Timken 415960 Front Inner Wheel Seal

grabbed some synthetic grease for the first time.always used the reg stuff.mobil 1.sure is smelly stuff.

 

Let us know how you like those hawk pads. I've always heard that when cold they don't stop as good as when hot. So around town there not as good. Hope this is wrong.

Chet

 

Alright I bought the socket from autozone and I will be working on it Monday so I will let you guys know when I'm done. The thing with hawks is you need to bed them in properly, with my car it said to do 65mph then make a hard stop to about 15 mpg but don't stop fully. It said to do this till the brakes got hot and started to fade then let them cool and your good to go

 

got mine on.boy is this nice.good luck blu!

 

so those are the slotted and dimpled rotors you linked to before?

 

yeah.i drove around for a few miles braking them in.says 45mph to 5mph without a complete stop for 10-20 times according to the instruction sheet.
no more shaking with warped rotors.goodbye duralast rotors,i won't be missing you!
smooth as silk,and supposed to stay this way,which is the best part.no hard braking for 50-100 miles so can't really test 'em out.feels some nice though.
the brake pads are stamped: HMD45 but couldn't find anything.probably centric brand too id imagine.the last set of semi metallic were real nice,but should have just stuck with basic pads with low grade rotors,cus they just heat 'em up and then your left with shaking and pulsating brakes,not worth it imho.with these rotors,i shouldn't have any issues.hopefully not,because changing rotors is kinda a hassle with these dually rim adapters.you have to take them off with a wrench,small turn at a time,tap the studs out as normal to swap the rotors,then you need to (since i don't have powerful enough air) set a normal srw rim on,tighten to draw in the studs fully,put the AA-4's on with a wrench,apply some locktight,tighten them down fully,then put the dually rim on haha.time consuming.all that and i replaced the wheel bearings w/ new races,and rear seal to boot.a little too early for wheel bearing replacement at just 92k miles haha.but since i was in there,i figured id just do it now.so it was a fun filled many hours this weekend after driving around for all the new timkens.

 

nice. glad to hear they are real nice so far.

 

well i got my driver side rotor off today and i knocked out the inner wheel bearing and im just curious, the bearing was supposed to be pressed in or was the grease cover thing pressed in? before i knocked the bearing and cover thing out i could move the inner bearing in and out

 

the outer just falls out,the inner is held in by the seal.both bearings will flop around on their own once you pull the hub assembly from the spindle.
you should have new seals for the inner bearings,so you can repack them before putting it all back together,if they don't need to be replaced.