Hello FTE members, I am looking at buying an 07 f-250 with the 6.0. Ive never owned a diesel before but i do know some things about this engine. Weve all heard the horror stories of some of the 6.0's but I am curious as to what can be done to help these engines be reliable. Obviously heavy mods and not maintaining the engine causes some of the troubles but what else is there? Ive heard about the EGR delete and possibly the high idle mod. This truck is bone stock, and has 95,000 miles on it. The truck was used to ocassionally tow a back hoe for his company. I ran a carfax and an OASIS report on the truck and both came back clean. Any and ALL input/help will be GREATLY appreciated!!

Thanks

 

I've moved your thread to the 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel forum. By doing so I'm hoping to get you some honest, no BS answers and keep the 6.0 bashing out of your thread.

These folks in the 6.0 forum are great and will steer you in the right direction.

 

ok thanks i really appreciate it! again, any input is greatly appreciated! Thank yall

 

This may help:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html

Also, the Tech Folder:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...elp-input.html

 

ram, I think its fair to say that the '06-'07 run were the best of the best, bought ours new in '07 and the engine has run flawlessly for 70k miles, only repair was the alternator last year.

Your description of the truck contains the 'secret' for continued 6.0 diesel bliss, if you keep it stock it will continue to rock, my only concern is why the current owner is parting with the vehicle-its accurate to say that a pre emissioins version of any diesel is irreplaceable-and every owner who isn't brain dead knows this.

Before buying any diesel I believe its critical to take an oil sample and send it in for analysis, I have used Lubri Port Labs in Kenner, LA for over 12 years and have complete confidence in their work. Many use Blackstone Labs BUT I was shocked to learn that they are not able to test directly for glycol in the oil, rather the lab extrapulates antifreeze in the oil from certain levels of one or more chemicals detected.

I had signed a purchase agreement and put a sizeable deposit on a one year old 'Corporate' diesel Jeep Liberty a few years back contingent on the results of an oil analysis. Lubriport sent back the results with a cautionary note saying that the indications were most likely a serious problem with the air filter as some values were light years out of normal , Floyd was spot on, the dealership service manager removed the cover and there was no filter inside-best guess, it had never been installed.

So again, be very skeptical as to why anyone would sell this year vehicle and spend the 30 or so bucks and send out an oil sample-accurate results can be had with as few as 300 miles on the oil, I think, pick you lab and ask....

Lastly, if the prospect of having to remove the body to do alot of the major engine repairs freaks you out, pass on the truck.

 

Just realized that in your post you mention you have never owned a diesel before so you need to hear the facts of diesel life:

With regard to a brand new vehicle, buying diesel makes no financial sense what so ever, none, nada, not a molecule of sense. The very significant cost of the diesel package with the higher price increase of diesel fuel over regular gas and the SLIGHTLY higher labor service cost per hour precludes anyone from benefiting financially by buying a diesel engine. Yes, in the engine size under discussion, you will travel at least 50% further on a gallon and more likely nearly twice as far per gallon on diesel compared to gas, but that additional up front and continued higher costs of operation (don't forget the yearly filter changes) makes recovering the cash impossible. With regard to buying used: you have a slight chance of coming out ahead but the buyer needs to compare the value of the diesel truck to a gas version to see just how much he/she is spending to go diesel-it may be financially the right move, but really this remains unlikely but possible depending on sale cost- when all is considered. However in your situation the huge question for me is, why is the owner selling?-remember the oil analysis....

The owner of a diesel truck will be dead, all things being equal, long before the engine dies JUST as the owner of any gasser will-there is no 'real' longevity advantage to going diesel the modern gas engine is quite different from those of my youth.

The performance of the V10 versus the 6.0 are close enough to be called-for the vast majority of owners-a wash AND the V10 by all accounts is a fine engine spark plug puking stopped years ago.

A diesel does present some operating differences over a gasser, restrictions if you will-extreme cold changes things a bit-short trips are very bad, especially in cold weather for the diesel and I understand that is a certain few parts of the Country diesel fuel is not as plentiful as one would expect-plus you have to exercise some diesel common sense with regard to where you buy fuel, busy stations only is the best way.

On the up side; having lived through the last two periods of gas shortages I can tell you that there was never a line at the diesel pumps.....-plus diesel engines of the time were quite happy on ultra low cost home heating oil which by all accounts since '07 would be the kiss of death for engines with dpf's or urea injection.

Really unless you do alot of heavy duty towing there is no 'valid' reason to opt for diesel unless you simply are a diesel person-well there are numberous environmental reason to opt for diesel but that is discussion fodder for another time.

 

This is not quite accurate. There are MANY mods that help. For this year model, the BulletProofDiesel EGR cooler is a modification well worth it. Adding head studs opens it up to tuning possibilities that will not hurt reliability. Another good modification is the FICM work that FICMrepair.com does.


Blackstone can do a water analysis and since antifreeze is 50% water you can determine what you need from that. I am not the biggest Blackstone fan, but they are cheap and I use them. They also "infer" the fuel dilution from the flash point and not all labs do (I think this method is less accurate, but it saves them money).

rambaseball45:

The first task is to look for obvious signs of problems - the info in my links will help with that. Also, I highly recommend taking a scangaugeII with you to look at any 6.0L. They are around $150. This isn't absolutely necessary, but it is wise. The factory gauges are not much more than idiot lights.

The second task (and most important if you end up buying it) is to see if it was properly maintained. Ask for maintenance records! Oil analysis may help, but most problems these 6.0's might have will not show up in an oil analysis. Proper maintenance is:

Proper diesel rated oil chyanged at 5k (MAX) intervals w/ OEM filters
Good fuel with OEM fuel filters installed every 10k miles.
Transmission fluid changed every 30k miles along w/ external filter change
Coolant flushed at 50 k miles and no evidence of loss of coolant.
Batteries (and charging system) in good health and properly maintained

The third task is to check for modifications that have been done and removed or hidden. NOt that I believe modifictaions are bad, but there are PLENTY of shortcuts people and shops take to do them. And yes, there are MANY tuners that can cause problems. This is a hard thing to do, but stock intake and exhausts probably mean you are OK.

Lastly, in ANY used vehicle you need to have a cash reserve for repairs. This is NOT a 6.0L thing - but true regardless of make, model, and year. Be aware though, there are some weaknesses even with the late model 6.0's. They include the fitting off of the HPOP and the dummy plugs and standpipes (high pressure oil system). The upgraded parts that Ford now supplies are very reliable. Repairing these and sending off your FICM to have the upgrades done will most likely yield an EXTREMELY reliable and enjoyable vehicle. The only other mod I would suggest while you had the other work done would be the installation of the BulletProofDiesel EGR cooler. I am not a huge advocate of EGR deletes and this aftermarket cooler is very well made.

The advantage of buying a 6.0L is its reputation. You can get a good price and have a great vehicle. You can also get a good price, afford to upgrade it, and have a FANTASTIC vehicle - if you so choose.

Oh, and only you can decide if you need a diesel (there are many reasons to own one), but Thomas is right - in the end they will be more expensive to own than a gasser (assuming both were reasonably reliable vehicles over their life). Alos (and I know Thomas that you didn't say this, but it can be inferred from your post ............ the 2007 6.0L does not have a dpf or need urea).

 

bismic, after we get ram sorted out I will happily engage you on some of the points you made which I take exception to, especially mods-the 6.0 left the factory absolutely maxed out, it was the modern example of the muscle car wars of the '60's but that is for another time.

Your advice to go forward with extreme caution ESPECIALLY with regard to mods are words to live by-the truck is believed to be stock but has it always been that way ??

This is the deal of the century for someone - is it ram or the seller ???

 

Thank you both for all that amazing advice. That was very impressive. The man is selling it because his construction company is going out of business and he has to pay the truck off. He has a corvette and was discussing with me his maintenance records on both. He seemed to be a real stickler with regular maintenance on both. The truck is bone stock, I know it's hard to believe. I'm lookin for the diesel to tow my 30 foot camper. My 97 f150 just can't do it anymore. To be honest, I don't know if it was ever towing it or if the camper was just pushing it haha. I can't quite afford a new gasser and I'm just not a fan of the 300hp 5.4.

 

Why do you favor the egr cooler rather than the delete? Is one better than the other??? Thanks

 

On an '07 you'll have to buy a tuner to remove the EGR function from the coding. The truck uses intake sensors to determine if there's flow through the EGR valve, and if there isn't it'll throw a code, a CEL, and can disable the cooling fan. A replacement BDP EGR cooler probably a bit cheaper than a delete kit plus the tuner. There's no reason to have it there, and there's no reason to not have it there, it's personal preference about making your truck non-EPA compliant.

Some states have a visual inspection to make sure the EGR cooler is still in place, so some people weld them shut to prevent exhaust from flowing while letting the coolant pass through.

 

One is legal, the other is not.

Your state may change to diesel emissions testing and then you will have to replace the EGR cooler. You may also find it harder to sell/trade in a vehicle that the emissions controls have been deleted on.

Just my $0.02!

 

If you do delete the EGR system
don't move to California

In truth I would not move to California
any way Diesel-***** hide in the CHP cars
if you believe some of the stories posted.
This one your looking at make sure that it has a
stock FORD oil filter and cap. The after market
stuff will lead to a life on pain and lost $$$$
I have a 06 6.0L F350

Sean

 

ram-its 'starting' to sound more and more interesting-mileage is right and it doesn't seem as though the truck has been worked hard on a regular basis-could you share the specifics of the vehicle and the asking price?-have you taken the vehicle on a long drive yet?

I cannot imagine you not being 1000% satisfied with the truck and how it pulls your rv but I advise you NOT to take the rig for a test pull as you most assuredly would purchase it on the spot and you really must do your homework first especially with regard to maint done. If the owner was up on the maint the truck most probably is in fine shape BUT still protect yourself and draw an oil sample, then you will know for sure-be certain to request that the lab check for glycol IN ADDITION to the regular run....

How much would the local Ford dealer charge to take a good look at the vehicle-perhaps they even could pull an oil sample for you??

yahiko-I read about what owners remove, add and change and simply shake my head.

 

On the local Ford Dealership I would
look for one that works on a lot of the
diesels and is known for doing top rated work
Not all Ford Dealerships are the same.
I have one here I would not trust with a rusty tim can
Rambaseball45 could always say where
he is local to and someone would know a
mechanic that will do him right with a
pre-purchase inspection.

Add,remove and hide. I had an explorer that
has some strange stuff under the dash. I got to
looking and digging and it turned out to be
the alarm system that was removed.
You can fide all sorts of odd things in used cars and trucks

Sean