I have a 1995 F-150 w/ 8.8 rear. I can't seem to find this information in my Chilton's. I need to know the torque specifications for the differential cover bolts and the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear end. I really can't believe this manual doesn't tell what they are.

Thanks

 

The Haynes manual has those specs, but you can also find them here.

 

Hey, Thanks for the information. Thats an interesting web site. Do you know anything about the 9.75 upgrade they talk about on there?

 

i belive the torque spec is 30 ft-lbs...but i'd look it up anyhow thats just off the top of my head. I usually just tighten them good and tight. LOL

 

I'm preparing to swap to a '97-up rear axle with disks when my tires wear out, so I'm thinking about getting a 4-link coil-sprung 9.75" instead of another 8.8". I read thru that conversion once, but I don't remember much if anything about it. I'd rather do it myself so I know exactly what I'm getting.

 

I've been trying to find the torque specs for the pinion nut after replacing the seal. One guy said to NOT re-use the pinion nut. Any help on finding the torq spec would be appreciated.

 

The pinion nut is a lock-nut so it should be replaced any time it is removed. There is not a torque spec per se on the pinion nut. You have to gradually tighten the new pinion nut until it takes the same amount of torque to rotate the pinion as it did before disassembly.

How'd you find such an old thread?

 

X2^^^

There is no torque spec on the pinion nut.
Take the differentail out. Axle shafts, carrier.
Put a NEW crush sleeve on the pinion (goes between the two pinion bearings).
Use a NEW pinion nut.
You need a beam style inch-pound torque wrench.
This is so you can measure how much torque it takes to turn the pinion gear with only the bearing drag as a source of resistance.
You need a pinion flange holding tool (just use a peice of flat stock with 2 holes drilled in it so you can bolt it to the pinion flange and let the other end rest against the leaf spring).
Get the pinion nut tighten up so there is no longer play in the pinion shaft.
Now start tighting the pinion nut in 1/16-1/8 turn increments. Check bearing pre-load after each increment. Do this by taking off the pinion flange holder and using your inch-pound beam style torque wrench. Repeat this process until you see 20-30 inch-pounds of torque required to get the pinion to turn.
I would shoot for 20 with used bearings. Maybe 25 with new bearings. If you go above 30, disassemble and start over with a new crush sleeve.

THIS IS A CRITICAL PROCESS. Do this right and have a happy ever after with your 8.8".

 

Didn't realize it was a lock nut. Thanks for the tip.
As for the old thread, I just kept digging until I found a thread close to what I was looking for. Didn't even notice the date until after I posted my question.