I was wondering what all is involved in swapping from an aod to a c6. I have a 318 stroker running around 430 hp and even though my aod was built to handle way more power than the engine has (so my mechanic said) it only lasted about 2 weeks. So now i have a $1700 aod with only first and second gear and the mechanic refuses to fix it. I have always heard good things about the c6, but just unclear on everything needed to convert it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

You need the kickdown rod and linkage, and the correct modulator for the motor you have. How ever I am not sure if the trans crossmember is the same, or if the flexplate is the same.

 

In 82 & 83 all the autos took the same flex plate: E2DZ 6375-A. And, the AOD as we call it, or AOT as the parts catalog calls it, was available then - as was the C6. IOW, they used the same flex plate.

Haven't found the cross member yet to confirm that.

 

Find a C6 truck, grab the kickdown, shift linkages, vac line to the modulator valve, driveshaft, mounts, and trans lines. No idea on the flex plate but that may be ok. I know the AOD is closely related to the C4, so any C6 specific parts are a plus.

As for the AOD, if the TV linkage/Cable wasn't adjusted perfect it will grenade.

Edit: There were 2 different length AODs but I don't remember the applications for each, so even the driveshaft *MIGHT* swap if the output shaft is the same size.

 

If you want to be correct and proper and intuitive and non-confusing, you'll also install the correct PRND2L thing in the dash.

 

ANd if you lived close to me, I would volunteer my C6 for your AOD. Park the trucks side by side and swap away....

 

I did the same swap around Easter last year & for memory it took about 18 hours, singlehanded.

The rear cooler line will screw straight into the C6 port, same fitting & position; the front port is in a slightly different position to the AOD one, so the line needs lengthening......but the fitting is the same.

The selector levers on the side of the trans came in different lengths, so you may need to alter that to match the original AOD lever.......or your dash indicator will have the wrong travel.

The gearshift-to-trans linkages will all work, but the brackets mounting them on the side of the transmissions are different.
A little cut-&-weld pretty easily fixes that though.

Speedo drive fits straight in

The NSS & reverse light plugs are different but the wire color codes are the same so adapting is easy.

You will need to flush out the coolers & lines as thoroughly as you can to remove any remains of the AOD failure(s).

My crossmember was fine, but I did have to adapt the driveshaft/yoke.

Be careful to have the torque converter fully engaged before you bolt the trans to the engine.
Two splined shafts & the oil pump, all need to engage (& stay engaged)....or damage will be done when the engine starts.

As mentioned above, C6's use a modulator so you will need a vacuum line (metal - 3/16" O.D.).
Not all vehicles need the kickdown - my truck downshifted fine without it.
But with different engines & vacuum, you may need it.

That's about all I can remember - good luck!

 

Thanks for all the info guys. Ken thanks alot for all the details. Sounds a little more involved than i had thought, but it definetly needs to be done to handle the engine i have.

 

Or a better tranny builder....

 

Sounds like the 3/4 input shaft busted. Did the tranny builder use a better(harden) input shaft when he did the rebuild? May get lucky and pull the torque converter out and fish the broken shaft out and replace it.

My friend did that with his 86 Bronco 302/aod. Was stuck in the mud and tranny shifted into 3rd and bang! Drove home with only 1st and 2nd gear! He called his tranny friend up and he said to replace that input shaft before going further. That AOD lasted 5 years of hell before finaly dumping out after replacing that shaft!!!!

I recall the car AOD is 1" shorter than the trucks AOD.