Cracked Overflow Reservoir and over heating.

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#31

07-07-2012, 08:27 PM

jmaskew

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Quote:

Originally Posted by bismic

Engine temperature is not the only parameter that the PCM monitors to determine cooling fan operation. This is the reason that you will see some variation in engine temperature as it correlates to fan operation. The operation/description of the FSS (Fan Speed Sensor) from the PC/ED manual has a fairly good explanation as to how the system "thinks". This is not your traditional engine hits temp X and the fan clutch locks up. The fan speed sensor is a Hall-Effect sensor integral to the vistronic drive fan (VDF). The powertrain control module (PCM) will monitor sensor inputs and control the VDF speed based upon engine coolant temperature (ECT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT) and intake air temperature (IAT) requirements (NO EOT input). When an increase in fan speed for vehicle cooling is requested, the PCM will monitor the FSS signal and output the required pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to a fluid port valve within the VDF

Engine oil temp is apparently not involved in the logic.

Thank you for the explanation Mark. It doesn't make sense why it works just fine for a while (around 30 minutes) then all of a sudden the fan just stops functioning like it should. . Speaking of IAT.. I believe it was around 116 degrees when the fan decided not to come back on again.

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#32

07-07-2012, 08:35 PM

cheezit

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there is a code for ect/eot above desired. code is p012f and it will set the wrench light and derate you.

fan speed ( fanss pid) comes from the fan works bascly the same way a crank sensor does.

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#33

07-07-2012, 08:55 PM

jmaskew

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cheezit

there is a code for ect/eot above desired. code is p012f and it will set the wrench light and derate you.

fan speed ( fanss pid) comes from the fan works bascly the same way a crank sensor does.

The spread between ECT and EOT is about 3 to 4 degrees on both the Torque app and the isspro gauges. I haven't received a wrench light or a CEL. When I scan for codes I get nothing not even impending codes. I'm thinking its not the fan clutch since the new one is behaving the exact same way as the old one. Could the thermostat or water pump cause this kind of behavior? If so what can I do to test each one. Thank you cheezit.. and again I am eating Cheese Nips as I type this...lmao!

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#34

07-07-2012, 11:26 PM

jmaskew

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I noticed that the two wires going to a sensor connector are cracked with exposed wires. They wire kind of twisted together so the two wires may have been touching. The sensor is to the left of the turbo drain tube next to the oil filter housing. Does anyone know which sensor that is?

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#35

07-08-2012, 12:29 AM

BLADE35

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BLADE35

Either a BAD ECT temp sender the OEM one or torque app gauge is wrong

Im leaning toward a BAD OEM ECT temp sender

Looks like I may have been close

EOT sensor to the left turbo oil supply

EOT has 2 wires going to it it has to be it

Those 2 wire touching would definatly cause problems

EOP only has 1 wire so that not it

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#36

07-08-2012, 09:36 PM

jmaskew

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Well SOB! I was driving today monitoring everything with the cool Torque app and pulled over when the ECT got to 228. I scanned for codes and got a P0528!! I just replaced the damn thing....arrrgh. I am filling out the RMA right now but won't have a free weekend at home for a couple of weeks to fix it. Oh well. Just my luck! At least driving back and forth to work is mostly freeway driving. Thank you for everyone's help and input!

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#37

07-08-2012, 11:10 PM

BLADE35

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<TABLE style="WIDTH: 681pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=908><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 77pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 3730" width=102><COL style="WIDTH: 86pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 4205" width=115><COL style="WIDTH: 237pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 11556" width=316><COL style="WIDTH: 281pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 13714" width=375><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 25.5pt" height=34><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 77pt; HEIGHT: 25.5pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 height=34 width=102>P0528</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 86pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 width=115>FSS</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 237pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=316>Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 281pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=375>Mechanical fault, short to voltage, open circuit, short to ground</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

well if the Fan Clutchb is NEW Id be checking the wireing and connections over really Good

Take a DVM and check for continuity at the PCM to the Fan Plug

Odds are the first fan clutch was OK and its a wiring Issue time will tell

Have you done any other recent work to truck???

GOOD Luck

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#38

07-08-2012, 11:49 PM

jmaskew

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BLADE35

<table style="WIDTH: 681pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="908"><colgroup><col style="WIDTH: 77pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 3730" width="102"><col style="WIDTH: 86pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 4205" width="115"><col style="WIDTH: 237pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 11556" width="316"><col style="WIDTH: 281pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 13714" width="375"></colgroup><tbody><tr style="HEIGHT: 25.5pt" height="34"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 77pt; HEIGHT: 25.5pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class="xl66" height="34" width="102">P0528</td><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 86pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class="xl66" width="115">FSS</td><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 237pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class="xl65" width="316">Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal</td><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 281pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class="xl65" width="375">Mechanical fault, short to voltage, open circuit, short to ground</td></tr></tbody></table>

well if the Fan Clutchb is NEW Id be checking the wireing and connections over really Good

Take a DVM and check for continuity at the PCM to the Fan Plug

Odds are the first fan clutch was OK and its a wiring Issue time will tell

Have you done any other recent work to truck???

GOOD Luck

No other work done lately (I've had my fingers crossed for months...lol), 'm not very good with a volt meter but I do have friends that are. There is a slim chance I bought a dud but something strange is going on....lol. I actually logged the trip today with the Torque app. The fan was working just fine for about 15 to 20 minutes then it just stopped functioning correctly which let the temps soar. Thank you for your help!

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#39

07-09-2012, 12:52 AM

jmaskew

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BLADE35

Have you done any other recent work to truck???

GOOD Luck

We'll actually I just changed out the batteries about a week before this all started to happen. Didn't think about that until I Google'd the location of the PCM. I will definitely check the wires tomorrow.

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#40

07-09-2012, 01:54 AM

jmaskew

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I found this article on how to test the wires:
Ford F350 SuperDuty Pickup 4x4: 05 F350, 6.0 GETTING A PO528 - JustAnswer
I actually sat in my driveway this afternoon with the rpm's at just over 2500 for a few minutes and the fan didn't get over 1400 rpm's.

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#41

07-09-2012, 10:31 PM

jmaskew

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Well I did this test on the new fan clutch and got 89 ohms... so it will be heading back for a refund. I even tested the old one and it was at 64 ohms.
I hope its just a fluke and I purchased a dud and not something else that caused the failures.
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9; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> AH4 CHECK THE VDF SOLENOID RESISTANCE

Key OFF.
Disconnect the VDF.
Measure the resistance between the VDF solenoid VPWR circuit pin 5, component side and the VDF solenoid control circuit pin 4, component side.

Is the resistance between 6.0 and 10.0 ohms?

Yes - GO to AH5 .
No- INSTALL a new VDF. CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

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#42

07-25-2012, 02:03 AM

jmaskew

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Update: I finally replaced the "new" Dorman brand fan clutch with a Motorcraft Fan clutch and that solved my issue. That cheap piece of crap lasted not even an hour. The Dorman was $137 delivered. I found the Motorcraft on ebay for $255 delivered, I thought it was a good deal considering the Dealer was asking over $500 for it. Thank you to everyone who helped on this issue.

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