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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 10:33 PM
  #1  
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Adamgators
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HELP

I have a 2004 6.0 crew cab with a powermax turbo, full bulletproof, sinister coolant filter, mishimoto intercooler and radiator, and an sct tuner. my truck gets hot just driving down the highway at 60 my oil will get to 240 and coolant will get to 230 and that's just on a 65 hp tune. It gets worse when I tow I've gotten 250 eot and 240 ect. But recently I've had a problem with my coolant jumping to 250 within 10 minutes of a normal drive. At first I just thought it was my thermostat which was broke and we replaced it but I still have the problem of my coolant jumping to 240 and my oil staying at 200 we checked all the lines and I had no clogs and my fan is working properly. What can I do?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 04:49 AM
  #2  
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From: Florida
water pump
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 06:41 AM
  #3  
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First of all, you have coolant flowing. Your oil temp would climb with the coolant temp if it weren't. How do you know your fan clutch is working? Literally every truck I've worked on this summer has had a failed fan clutch when it related to overheating this summer.

Do you have access to the "torque" app or a scanguage? First thing, check DTCs. If there is a code set for anything related to the fan clutch, it's bad. Look at your fan shroud and fan blades for sticky viscous fluid. If you find any, replace the fan clutch.

If there are no DTCs, monitor the FSS PID in your scanguage or "fan speed" in the torque app. While driving, the fan should be audible at 217 degrees (fan at 2500 rpm or so), ramping up to maximum rpm (4000) at 225. If the fan clutch stays at about 400-600 rpm regardless of the engine rpm, the clutch has leaked all of the viscous fluid. This cannot be determined by DTCs.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 10:49 AM
  #4  
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After a 12 hr or longer cold soak check and compare all temp sensors
ECT
EOT
TFT
AMBEINT TEMP

they should be within a couple degrees of one another at that time

As you drive the temps should rise STEADY NO jumping in temp high then lower then higher we want steady rise in temp as you drive

Start there and then move to the water pump and fan clutch but I assume the fan clutch is ok if you can hear it

If you have to replace the water pump get the metal impeller one

My guess is water pump not moving the coolant and truck is going into a limp mode
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 05:17 PM
  #5  
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Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't the 03-04' water pump have an issue with the impeller spinning on the shaft? Seems I have heard this before so you could be moving some coolant but not the volume you need to be.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 11:49 PM
  #6  
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From: Spanaway
Quick and dirty flow test.

Remove the line from the intake that is just above the EGR cooler from
the degas bottle end and get a bucket. Start the engine. How is the flow?

No flow and you start looking at the coolant pump or a blockage. Good and
strong the that is not the problem most likely. But really starting to sound
like a plugged radiator. claw under the truck up front and look at the lower
side for dirt and other debris in the path. Then take a look from the top. If
you have to putt the top mounts and time the radiator back to the engine and
look between for stuff. Like forgotten cardboard from the winter.

Also how much coolant is in the degas bottle? Is the level stable or dropping?


Sean

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