Help with front lower control arm replacement
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Help with front lower control arm replacement
Need instructions on lower control arm replacement. Vehicle is RWD. I have already replaced the upper. Just a little nervous about the spring on the lower arm. Any help would be appreciated.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
<table width="95%"> <tbody> <tr> <td> SECTION 204-01A: Front Suspension — 4x2
</td> <td align="right"> 2000 Expedition/Navigator Workshop Manual
</td></tr></tbody></table> REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
<hr> Arm —Front Suspension, Lower
<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" width="50%"> <caption>Special Tool(s) </caption> <tbody> <tr valign="top"> <td>
</td> <td valign="top">Coil Spring Compressor 204-D001 (D78P-5310-A) or equivalent </td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td>
</td> <td valign="top">Pitman Arm Puller 211-003 (T64P-3590-F) </td></tr></tbody></table> Removal
-
WARNING: The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in the RH kick panel. Failure to do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
- CAUTION: Do not use heat to loosen a seized wheel nut. Heat can damage the wheel and the wheel bearings.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
- Remove the brake disc shield. For additional information, refer to Section 206-03 .
- Remove the upper shock absorber nut and washer.
- Remove the front shock absorber (18124).
- Remove the two nuts.
- Remove the front shock absorber.
- Remove the brake hose bracket screw and bracket from the front suspension lower arm (3079).
- Remove the front stabilizer bar link nut.
- Using the Coil Spring Compressor, compress the front coil spring (5310).
- Remove the lower ball joint castle nut.
- Remove and discard the cotter pin.
- Remove the castle nut.
- Use the Pitman Arm Puller to separate the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle (3105).
- NOTE: The front suspension lower arm nut must be installed in its original position.
Index the front suspension lower arm nut.
- Remove the front suspension lower arm and front coil spring.
- Remove the two front suspension lower arm nuts.
- Remove the two front suspension lower arm bolts.
- Remove the front suspension lower arm (3078) and front coil spring.
- Install the front coil spring into the front suspension lower arm.
- Position the front coil spring on the front suspension lower arm.
- The spring must cover the first hole.
- The spring must be visible in the second hole.
- NOTE: Install the front suspension lower arm nuts in the original position.
NOTE: The front suspension lower arm caster split adjuster is for production use only. Do not adjust.
NOTE: The forward front suspension lower arm nut must be tightened first while the control arms are held at the curb position ride height.
Install the front suspension lower arm.- Position the front suspension lower arm and front coil spring.
- Install the bolts and nuts.
- Install the lower ball joint castle nut.
- Install the castle nut.
- Install a new cotter pin.
- Install the front stabilizer bar link nut.
- Remove the Coil Spring Compressor.
- Install the front shock absorber and the shock absorber lower nuts.
- Install the upper shock absorber nut and washer.
- Install the brake hose bracket screw.
- Install the brake disc shield. For additional information, refer to Section 206-03 .
- WARNING: When a wheel is installed, always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub, brake drum or brake disc that contacts the wheel. Installing wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the wheel nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control.
Clean the wheel hub mounting surface.
- NOTE: If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension switch.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
- Inspect and adjust the front end alignment. For additional information, refer to Section 204-00 .
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Thank you Moto Mel!
Fortunately I already own a coil spring compressor so I will use it this weekend to do the job. I replaced the entire upper arms this week (MOOG problem solver)and I noticed the OE drivers side ball joint boot was torn and the joint was clicking but I still hear a click when I turn so I suspect the lower ball joint is shot as well. I REALLY appreciate the instructions you posted. I am no mechanic but I will try just about any repair with a set of good instructions like these.
Thanks
Fortunately I already own a coil spring compressor so I will use it this weekend to do the job. I replaced the entire upper arms this week (MOOG problem solver)and I noticed the OE drivers side ball joint boot was torn and the joint was clicking but I still hear a click when I turn so I suspect the lower ball joint is shot as well. I REALLY appreciate the instructions you posted. I am no mechanic but I will try just about any repair with a set of good instructions like these.
Thanks
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 411
Likes: 7
From: Proctorsville VT
Don't know what you are working on. The '97-'03 lower ball joints can be separated and are replaceable independently . Haynes manual says otherwise, but I did mine last week. Less work and $ than doing the whole control arm. Pointing this out because you said you had ball joint wear with no mention of control arm problems.
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Thanks for the reply Ronald. I just finished the job. I found
the rear of the arms were severly dry and cracking and the ball joint boots were riped. The ride is much better now. The truck is a 2001 Navigator RWD and has close to 200k miles. The job was ok but I had to go buy a 24mm deep socket to get the rear bolt nuts off in the middle of everything. Took me all day but Im happy. I will get an alignment on Monday and celebrate my saving over the stealership!
the rear of the arms were severly dry and cracking and the ball joint boots were riped. The ride is much better now. The truck is a 2001 Navigator RWD and has close to 200k miles. The job was ok but I had to go buy a 24mm deep socket to get the rear bolt nuts off in the middle of everything. Took me all day but Im happy. I will get an alignment on Monday and celebrate my saving over the stealership!
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
Glad to hear that the job came to a satisfactory conclusion. For an alignment you might want to consider a Firestone tire store to get the Lifetime warrantee. I take my Navigator 4WD in every 6 m onths for a check up. It's a little pricey the first time but it pays in the long run, if your Navigator is a keeper.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 411
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From: Proctorsville VT
Glad to hear that the job came to a satisfactory conclusion. For an alignment you might want to consider a Firestone tire store to get the Lifetime warrantee. I take my Navigator 4WD in every 6 m onths for a check up. It's a little pricey the first time but it pays in the long run, if your Navigator is a keeper.
Thanks for the heads-up.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,584
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
Just got my alignment done at the local Firestone on Monday. Very nice guys over there and normally aggressive salesmen. I'm sorry that they never mentioned lifetime alignment, I think I would've paid the difference. Maybe the manager can still be talked into the deal.
Thanks for the heads-up.
Thanks for the heads-up.
I'm sure the manager can make the adjustment and in my opinion it's worth the extra money to have an expert check the alignment as well as advising of any parts that will need replacement in the not too distant future. The one I go to has no problem with my doing the part(s) replacement and bringing the truck in for an alignment check/adjustment. I always give the tech a tip as that makes the reception I get pretty nice. On top of the value of knowing that my truck is in good condition you rarely know you need an alignment until your tires are badly worn and they are getting damned expensive lately.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
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From: Central NYS
Moto Mel, when they check your alignment, how do they keep the LLS from kneeling when its on the rack and they exit the vehicle to do the alingment?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 37
From: Central NYS
Thanks Mel.
Sounds like your alignment shop is on the ball
I had my Navigator re-aligned.
Now the "CHK AIR SUSP" light comes on within 5 minutes of start up.
Pulled a C1725.
Haven't had time to look at it yet............
Sounds like your alignment shop is on the ball
I had my Navigator re-aligned.
Now the "CHK AIR SUSP" light comes on within 5 minutes of start up.
Pulled a C1725.
Haven't had time to look at it yet............
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,584
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
Check your ride height sensor and the electrical connection at the sensor as well as searching for any cut or shorted wires in that system.
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