That guy sounds retarded. Changing to an electric T-case wont solve anything except add a whole crap ton of electrical work which can fail.

If he means put ANOTHER transfer case under it like the old Jeeps have, thats even more stupid, thatll drop your gear ratio too far (I think) not to mention the cost and work will far surpass what a ring and pinion cost. Not tryin to be harsh but c'mon!

 

Not sure what rear end ya got but heres a set for my 10.25:

Richmond Gear SF102504 - Richmond Gear Sportsman Ring and Pinion Gear Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

$190

If you decide to get an installation kit (which is recommended... might as well change it out while your in there) thatll be another $100 or so. So youll basically be lookin at $350 after shipping and tax. How much would an electric t-case cost? Brand new? I dont even wanna know lol. Then you gotta get your driveshaft shortened and make it fit

 

Thanks ECM.

What did you mean by this? What am I changing out beside fluid/Gasket.

I was thinking this was not a job I should tackle with my lack of experience.

So does the price seem right. I could of swaore the same guy gave me a quote of 1700 a cououple of years ago... economy?

I was expecting an answer like that that to the tranfer case... thanks.

JW

 

Its a pretty in depth job, but not $1700 worth!

You need a press, which is why Iv never attempted it lol.

The install kit basically gives you new bearings, shims, gasket, and a few other things. What I meant by "change it out while your in there" was the bearings. You gotta take the pinion bearing off to get it out, so might as well put a new one on lol. Take a look on youtube. Theres a few videos on there about doin it and you can get the general idea down. If your unsure about doin it yourself (like me) then talk to some mechanical buddies or get some quotes.

 

Personally I'd add power and not regear.
If you put 456 gears in the truck it will really only add to your takeoff and make the truck rev higher for the same speed.
And 488 gears would be just like your 410s and overdrive turned off (or worse)

Add power
Yank the heads and clean them up. Give a light port job where it looks ugly. The area around the valve seat is terrible. Then blend and clean up the radius around the valve guide.
New timing chain
And the smaller cam that summit sells will be a nice upgrade. (I used the big summit cam and it idled rough because of the efi. On a carb motor it ran some kinda nice)

Headers and exhaust will help TONS. I'd rather spend the 1600$ on the banks kit then to regear the truck. I don't think you'll like the new gears in the long run

 

But theres still the money issue. If you pull the heads and send them off to be ported and polished and valve jobs, youll have your truck parked for 3 weeks or better. A rear end can be done in a few hours and will still be cheaper than head work. I still vote for the regear, just nothing crazy. 4.56s would be plenty

 

I think the guy might have been referring to an under or overdrive unit. They are auxiliary two-speed boxes that bolt behind the transmission that allow you to "split" gears. The results are the same as an "aux-box" or two-speed differential on a larger commercial truck. People usually get them to get overdrive in trucks without it but I think you can get an under-drive unit as well and they're shifted electronically. This would give you the best of both worlds, lower final drive ratio for towing without sacrificing top-speed for empty driving. It also (theoretically but not necessarily) doubles the amount of gears at your disposal so if you've ever been towing up a hill and one gear was too low and the next was two high you'll appreciate more gear options. I think Gear Vendors is one of the more popular companies for them but I know there's others. My F-250 has a C6 and 3.55:1 gears so I have kicked around the idea of an under-drive unit


As for hauling the ATV and towing the trailer, it would be worth at least looking into selling your current trailer for a "toy hauler". Then you wouldn't have to worry about the hitch extension/tongue weight. I've also seen guys with custom racks for various ATVs, including side-by-sides, that are basically ramps that you drive the rhino up onto so it's on a slope and it doesn't hang out of the back very far.

 

I just checked out Gear Vendor's website. It looks like that would be over 3k.

Does that sound right?

 

I agree. I had the banks torque tubes w custom exhaust, banks ram air intake and BBK throttle body. My truck ran circles around most of the diesels. It comes at a cost(fuel milage, but she ran)

2 years ago I added a Vortch supercharger and now she will SMOKE all but the newest diesels. 4:10s is MORE than enough gear for a 460 w 35s. If you had a small, block, that would be a different story

 

I usually talk like its me doing my own work.
But if the guy can't port out a little material in the heads himself, with a 10$ harbor freight die grinder and a 30$ set of carbide bits, he isnt going to be doing any engine work himself.

What I never understand is why people always say "sell item X and buy item Y"
It's quite a monitary investment to do any of this work. But telling someone to just sell whatever they have and buy new everything is beond me.

A decent valve job near me is only about 300-350 depending on how bad they really are.
As far as porting goes, you just need to clean up the crap ford left in there. It doesn't need to be done to the max, just better then it was and all of them to match each other.
Regearing will basically be like driving the truck out of overdrive all the time. It will be terrible whenever he isnt towing and revving high when he doesn't need it.
The banks complete exhaust kit has great results on the Dyno and I've used it myself and was very impressed.