This is a repost from the towing forum. Not getting much attention there.

Any help (especially on the last couple of questions)?
I am seriously considering the purchase of a Yamaha Rhino and if I do so will need to modify my towing configuration (travel trailer).
Here is what I was thinking…

The Rhino is 113 inches long so I would need to have my tailgate down (short bed, I think you would still have to on a LB). I was thinking I could use these tailgate supports to help support the weight.

DG Manufacturing Home Page

I would also need to use a hitch extension so that I could still turn without hitting the propane tanks on my travel trailer. So here are some questions.

1) My Hitch has a Tongue Weight capacity marked on it at 1000lbs. The hitch extension says it reduces tongue weight by 50%. My TT say it has a dry TW of 350lbs. I am guessing 50lbs for the extension, ball drop and ball. Not sure how to easily get a loaded tongue weight.
Do you think I’m good here?

2) What simple(not too expensive) mods can I do to my truck to get it to handle the extra weight.
a. SUSPENSION - Rear Air bags? About what would I spend?
b. POWER – I need to get up some pretty steep stuff in the mountains. I have a 1997 HD Crew with a 460, Toyo class E 35” mud tires, and 410s.
i. I was thinking maybe 456’s??? Guessing about $1500.00 here in so cal.
ii. Banks Intake and exhaust… maybe 2500.00 installed.

• If I do this it is going to delay the purchase of my next truck at least another couple of years (I was thinking of getting one in two years).
• Is it silly to consider putting money into my 97 (100k miles)?

 

Friend used to run one of those long hitch extensions in a similar set up(only his was a slide in camper instead of quad). He pulled his race car trailer with it(open with mustang on it). This was '78 F350 camper special.

What does the Rhino weigh? 800+lbs? I can see the truck holding that fine, but agree if it's hanging on the tailgate straps, I would look into getting something more substantail then the cables. Over time I could see them giving up and it would get ugly on the road.

Air bags wouldn't hurt, at least help with road manners if it gets bumpy.

I think friend ran weight distributing hitch with his extension which would help hold things up better. Also help with "dip and sway" going down the road.

I ran a '96 F350 SC dually pulling my 40ft trailer(10K lbs) and did good. Never went off road per say, but had plenty of power(automatic/4.10).

Have you cut the intake tubes yet? Pull the tubes apart at the middle junction. You'll see air horns that restrict airflow. Cut them off, leaving enough to clamp hoses back on. Bump timing up a couple degrees(stock was like 6), I ran 10* back then. Just watch pinging, and the quality of the gas.

How about just putting a big turbo muffler on it, I ran a Dynomax with just a turndown. With that twin tailpipe, I didn't fuss with it. Just a turndown under truck. Suppose you could have a tailpipe made. Much cheaper then aftermarket kits.

 

Banks exhaust and intake package claims 35whp and 90 wheel torque.
I had it on my 95 f350 and a manual trans, with cat, and it was such a HUGE difference in power.
If you can do the work yourself then it will save you lots of money. The banks kit is about 1600 I think.
Or buy l&l headers and a pipe kit, and a diesel exhaust and you're saving even more.
Banks is all stainless, but in a non salt winter area, you'll be fine with alumInized.

As far as load goes. You'll be fine. A load leveling hitch is reccomended because it loads the front tires, but airbags will make it sit level and give stability also.
I've towed with a hitch extension and a long hitch to get past my 10.5' slide in camper, and towed my bigblock 67 mustang, everything went just fine.
Just be careful, take it slow until you figure out the way it will act. You'll never know until you try it.

 

My brothers Polaris Ranger, with trail riding stuff in the back and a driver and passenger weigh in at a little under 2000 lbs. Figure prolly 1500 empty.

According to Google, Rhino 700 weighs 1170.

I think your stock suspension would be fine as well as everything else. Iv read people pulling a 32 ft camper without a hiccup. Your truck will haul your Rhino just fine. If you want some piece of mind, get some air bags. My dads F250 had some and hes hauled 1 1/2 tons of concrete in the bed and didnt sag an inch

Im kinda confused on your post: are you wanting to put the Rhino in the bed or on a trailer? Or did you mean a Rhino in the bed AND towing a trailer? If so, thats another story

 

Rhino Weights 1200 lbs dry weight.

Link did not copy well... I was thinking of these to back up the cables.

DG Manufacturing Home Page

I have NOT done any mods to my engine. What could I expect to gain from the ones mentioned and what would it do to My smog levels... I live in California.

Thanks
JW

 

Any idea what this would do to my exhaust. Living in CA I'm afraid I might fail my next smog.

With the xtra hadrware of the leveler I can see me being over my reduced hitch capacity.

Thanks
JW

 

Towing a travel trailer - with a Rhino in the back of my truck... which would require the Hitch extension so I believe I have to do something to the suspension.

Bags seem to be the best option.

I really wanted the Rhino but I just not sure its worth putting a lot of work into the truck.

Some simple engine modes and bags seem reasonable.

Thanks
JW

 

I would say the most cost effective "power" upgrade would be to re-gear the axles to 4.56's or 4.88's.

Also, a simple air bag kit is like 250-300 bucks. So, that would be something I would definitely do.

 

What would I be turning with 35s and 4.56 or 4.88 (E40D)? Does someone have a link to a calulator?

What ways can I save on the gear swap. That's not something I can do.

250-300 for the bags... Just parts?

Thanks
JW

 

The banks kit I believe is 50 state legal. I kept the cat and air injection when I did mine. And I'm pretty sure egr as well.

 

4.56's at 65 mph would be roughly 2220 rpm
4.88's at 65 mph would be roughly 2375 rpm

Here's the link: Calculators
Trans ratios are: 1st - 2.71, 2nd - 1.54, 3rd - 1.00 and 4th - 0.78

Yeah that price is just parts for a basic (no compressor) airbag kit. This is the one I've been eyeballing: Firestone Ride Rite, Coil Rite, Sport Rite 2071 - Firestone Ride-Rite Air Helper Spring Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

Thanks Ichabod.

Looking at those numbers... I might get better gas milage?????

I can see climbing the grape vine (and mountaing passes would be a lot less cumbersome).

Is there any general rule when trying to gain towing capacicity as far as what is a better mod... Engine vs Gearing... or does it boil down to torque at the wheel?


Are the bags as easy to install as it looks?

JW

 

You can't really gain towing capacity.

I think what you're asking is what would make it easier on the truck?

It does boil down to torque at the wheels. Engine work does it, so does gears. I'd go with gears to start, then if you feel you need more, address the engine.

 

Ahh pulling a trailer AND hauling a Rhino! Gotcha

Your gonna definitly need some help. Your truck will bottom out lol. The air suspension kits are cheap.. if you do it yourself. Take it to a shop and itll cost ya an arm and a leg.

As for power, the gear swap will definitly be most effective, especially if your already runnin 35s. It might actually help ur mileage!

 

Guys, I have another question.

In talking with someone about my plans, he told me all I need is to add an Electric Transfer Case...

That would only change the gearing to the rear axel when I CHOSE (Under two wheel drive - Towing).

It's true I really only need the gearing when towing. Any truthe to this?

Also, I got aquote from a local shop that has worked on my truck a couple of time before and they quoted me $1200 (labor and parts) to do both pumkins (4.56 or 4.88). While this made me happy... it als made me skeptical. What should I be asking them?

Thanks
JW