Alright, so dont laugh too hard but I bought an f250 with warn locking hubs on and I honestly have no clue how to work them. It seems simple but I have yet to find any good answers on google. Basically do I need to engage the auto inside then twist the hubs on the out side? Should they be set to auto or lock and how do I know when its set to that.

Also my driver side does not move freely like my passenger side does (the hub that is) is it jammed or broken? It doesnt have any markings on it so I have no clue

Thanks ahead of time!

 

Do you have Warn hubs or the factory hubs? The factory hubs have an Auto and a Lock position.

Normally they are left in Auto and then when you lock in the transfer case or ESOF it will automatically engage the hub via vacuum.

In lock, the hubs are locked no matter the ESOF or transfer case selections.

If your hubs are hard to turn you can lubricate them using Bob's instructions below.

Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page

 

I didn't realize that Warn made the auto locking along with the straight manual hubs. Do your hubs actually say AUTO - LOCK or do they say FREE - LOCK? If they are manual hubs, (free - lock) simply turn hubs to lock turn switch on dash you're good to go. If the they are stock style autos, when they are in auto just turn the switch on the dash and as long as the vacuum system is working and such it will be in 4 wheel drive; if you turn that style hub to lock, the hubs will be locked like a manual style hub. If one of your hubs isn't turning freely like the other it may be as simple as pulling it off, cleaning, and lubing but it may be time for a replacement. I personaly prefer true manual hubs, downside having to get out everytime to lock them, but I like knowing for sure that they are locked and not relying on the stock vacuum system

 

@woodnthings - I was told warn hubs by the dealership. They auto/lock. Is there any way to tell of its aftermarket or stock? By lock does that mean 4 wheel drive no matter what? Also thanks for the link! I will absolutely due the first thing tomorrow

@cowens726 - they do say auto/lock, again as I said I was told this and don't know how to check if it's warn or not I guess. Do you have any advice on checking the vacuum system? It's a 2001 by the way

 

What does the dial say? If it says warn or mm(milemarker) you have to get out and turn dials from free to lock

 

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...d.php?t=105595

 

I did away with the factory auto lock hubs and went this route...problem solved

 

Thanks for the help guys, looks like the ever so trustful dealer lied to a unknowing buyer! Mine are not warn it apears. Not a huge deal unless I can figure out if the hubs failed I guess. I'll check the vacuum lines tomorrow to see what's the word

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoI-BbisYEs&f eature=youtube_gdata_,player

Helpful video on checking for vacuum leaks

 

Manual Hubs locked on: Even though they are locked in 4x4 position the interior switch must be turned to the high 4x4 to engage the front gearbox (transfer case). With the switch in the 2x4 (off) position and the hubs locked on, the front axles will turn but the transfer case will not be engaged. Therefore you will not get any help from the front wheels.
The vacuum lines do nothing for manual locking hubs. Plug the lines and get them out of the way.

 

This is a common problem. I'm not sure how that Ford thought that making something like these hubs out of plastic components was a good idea. In choosing replacements for mine I looked at Warn and Milemarker hubs as that is what is available. Warn makes two different sets; a standard set and their premium set. The standard set has aluminum and plastic components and is adequate. Their premium set is aluminum and steel. The gears that go into the axle to engage the hubs are aluminum and are pretty good as well. The Milemarker hubs are constructed of the gears set being made of ductile iron and the cap being aluminum die cast into stainless steel. Also the Milemarkers are 50-100 dollars less expensive than the Warns. One downside to the Milemarkers is that the caps aren't sealed as well as the Warns so if you go through deep water, you will probably have to remove the caps and clean out the hubs as soon as you get home. The Warns have two seal rings around the engagement handle and the cap screws have o-ring seals. The Milemarkers only have one seal and no cap screw seals. I usually don't go off into places where there is deep water, so I went with the Milemarkers. Oh yeah, the Warns take 7/8 of a turn to fully engage and the Milematkers take 1/3 of a turn. The fact that you have to turn the Warns almost a full turn causes some people to fail to fully engage them resulting in damage. I know there are some who prefer Warns and that's fine, I had a set of them on a F150 and they were fine. I am trying out the Milemarkers now on my F250 to see how they hold up. Just my two cents worth.

 

Well autozone didn't have the seals I needed (go figure) you think they would for how common these trucks are in northern va. I'll check autozone but I think I'll have to order them online.

@Hawk180! Thankyou for the advice! Would you recommend the warn if it was relatively deep snow, not water? Not a huge off road guy but I do drive in a bit of snow would it be worth it to keep the salt and water out?vIt's just so hard to justify the extra 100 bucks for warn..

 

If you spend a lot of time in the snow, I would probably go with the WARN Premiums, but if it is just occasionally, The Milemarkers should be good enough. In order to help them out, I did put a very small bead of silicone RTV sealant around the screws. It will help without making the screws harder to get out. I put it around the base of the heads before putting them in.