Locking Hub Question
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Locking Hub Question
So, got this truck recently. After heating up the trans to the point of causing the seal to leak right on to the exhaust, which caused a nice flare up, on the beach, 3 miles from civilization. I remembered the truck is not like my Jeep and has hubs, which I thought were auto locking, though they may not be as I got out and turned them and climbed out of the spot I was stuck in. Anyways. At the time, I was not the full time owner or driver of the truck. I am wondering if both hubs are unlocked or if I possibly have one locked and one unlocked. How would I go about checking that? I know when I turn them I am turning the driver to the right and then the passenger to the right, seems as though I am doing opposites but really I am doing the same. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Was my grandads truck and I am using it as a DD currently and fixing her up as well, so trying to learn as much as I can! Much appreciated!
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Joined: Feb 2015
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All manual hubs I've ever seen are turned right to lock and turn left to unlock for both wheels. What do they look like? Should say "lock" and "free" on the cap if they are manual hubs.
You can always check if they're locked by just climbing under and turning the front driveshaft (with the transfer case in 2wd); if the hubs are unlocked the driveshaft will spin and if they're locked it won't.
You can always check if they're locked by just climbing under and turning the front driveshaft (with the transfer case in 2wd); if the hubs are unlocked the driveshaft will spin and if they're locked it won't.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stephensville WI
Do you have electronic 4 wheel drive (a **** on the dashboard) or manual (a lever on the floor)? From the factory, the manual and automatic hubs look similar, except the automatic hubs have AUTO and LOCK positions where the manual hubs have LOCK and FREE positions.
In either case, right (or clockwise) rotation will select the LOCK position. left (or counterclockwise) rotation selects FREE or AUTO.
Failure of the auto hubs is common, caused often by a vacuum leak or lack of maintenance. Replacement of the stock hubs with a Warn or Mile Marker hub is a fairly common modification.
In either case, right (or clockwise) rotation will select the LOCK position. left (or counterclockwise) rotation selects FREE or AUTO.
Failure of the auto hubs is common, caused often by a vacuum leak or lack of maintenance. Replacement of the stock hubs with a Warn or Mile Marker hub is a fairly common modification.
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Do you have electronic 4 wheel drive (a **** on the dashboard) or manual (a lever on the floor)? From the factory, the manual and automatic hubs look similar, except the automatic hubs have AUTO and LOCK positions where the manual hubs have LOCK and FREE positions.
In either case, right (or clockwise) rotation will select the LOCK position. left (or counterclockwise) rotation selects FREE or AUTO.
Failure of the auto hubs is common, caused often by a vacuum leak or lack of maintenance. Replacement of the stock hubs with a Warn or Mile Marker hub is a fairly common modification.
In either case, right (or clockwise) rotation will select the LOCK position. left (or counterclockwise) rotation selects FREE or AUTO.
Failure of the auto hubs is common, caused often by a vacuum leak or lack of maintenance. Replacement of the stock hubs with a Warn or Mile Marker hub is a fairly common modification.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Southern Cal
As noted above, you have a vacuum line that attaches under the frame and runs out to each wheel assembly.
These are rubber vacuum lines, only 15-18" and tend to crack and start to leak, thus leaving your electric switch inoperable.
I'd start there, replacing both first as an inexpensive start.
These are rubber vacuum lines, only 15-18" and tend to crack and start to leak, thus leaving your electric switch inoperable.
I'd start there, replacing both first as an inexpensive start.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2014
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As noted above, you have a vacuum line that attaches under the frame and runs out to each wheel assembly.
These are rubber vacuum lines, only 15-18" and tend to crack and start to leak, thus leaving your electric switch inoperable.
I'd start there, replacing both first as an inexpensive start.
These are rubber vacuum lines, only 15-18" and tend to crack and start to leak, thus leaving your electric switch inoperable.
I'd start there, replacing both first as an inexpensive start.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: North Texas
I ditched my auto hubs after performing maintenance on them and getting them functioning with solid vacuum system only to have them stay locked randomly when I disengaged 4x4. At least with my mile marker hubs I KNOW they are engaged or disengaged. Also the aftermarket hubs are way easier to turn and it was only a 15 minute install, both sides. If not for hanging engaged, I was perfectly happy with the ESOF hubs.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Timmonsville
I just read is my owners manual that ccw to lock,cw auto.Hmmm? I just ASSUMED " clock to lock".
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Interesting.....
If I think about it, pretty sure my drivers side hub is turned to far CCW (Lock) and my Passenger is turned to far CW (Auto/Free)....May explain some feeling as though power is not being pushed to the rear and some of the extreme MPG loss. Here's a question though, other day I had the hub locked, or so I thought, seems I had it unlocked, and I put it back in the auto/unlocked position, or well what we now learn is locked, and it randomly started making a noise, almost sounded like a tcase chain slap or u-joint loose and rattling when under load, and was speed specific (faster I went, faster it went) I "locked" then "auto/unlocked" the hub again and it went away. Remember we are under the impression my hub is currently locked, so everything I thought I was doing (unlocking and locking) I was actually doing the opposite.... So when it was "locked" it started making a rattle type noise at all speeds while in 2wd. Randomly started it, I then "Auto/Unlocked" the hub and then "locked" it again and it went away, thoughts on that?
If I think about it, pretty sure my drivers side hub is turned to far CCW (Lock) and my Passenger is turned to far CW (Auto/Free)....May explain some feeling as though power is not being pushed to the rear and some of the extreme MPG loss. Here's a question though, other day I had the hub locked, or so I thought, seems I had it unlocked, and I put it back in the auto/unlocked position, or well what we now learn is locked, and it randomly started making a noise, almost sounded like a tcase chain slap or u-joint loose and rattling when under load, and was speed specific (faster I went, faster it went) I "locked" then "auto/unlocked" the hub again and it went away. Remember we are under the impression my hub is currently locked, so everything I thought I was doing (unlocking and locking) I was actually doing the opposite.... So when it was "locked" it started making a rattle type noise at all speeds while in 2wd. Randomly started it, I then "Auto/Unlocked" the hub and then "locked" it again and it went away, thoughts on that?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stephensville WI
Looking at the direction of travel of the top of the hub....
Lefty Loosey (unlocK or auto in your case)
Righty Tighty (lock)
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,103
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From: Lakeland, TN
There's some disconnect here. Just went out and checked mine and its "clock to lock" on both sides. I have 2006 auto hubs that I've removed all the auto stuff from and just use manually.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,103
Likes: 1
From: Lakeland, TN
Just reread it. You and I are saying the same thing.