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No power GEM????

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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #1  
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From: Sullivan, MO
No power GEM????

I just finished replacing my injector sleeves and I got everything back together and went to start it up. I had full power and everything seemed normal. I turned the key and it gave me about a 1/2 crank and then EVERYTHING went dead. No warning lights, no nothing. All I get now is a chirping noise coming from behind the fuse box. I had both batteries on and off the charger the whole time I had the truck apart (about a week and a half). Did my GEM take a crap on me, or is there something that I need to do since both the fuel and HPOP systems need to bleed themselves??? If there's anything else knight be overlooking, PLEASE let me know; I need my truck running again!!!!! Thanks
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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Have you checked all your fuses?

Kinda sounds like you may have hydrolocked the engine. Did you evacuate the cylinders before re-installing the glow plugs?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 05:44 PM
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Sounds like low batteries to me. Did you double check the connections on them? Maybe a load test would be a good idea.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 05:57 PM
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Kinda sounds like you may have hydrolocked the engine to me to
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 10:35 PM
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thanks for the inout guys. I guess I'm gonna have to rip everything apart again to get to the GPs and make sure nothing's hydrolocked. I thought I got everything out, but maybe not. Maybe I'm just simple minded, but why would a hydrolocked engine COMPLETELY kill all power?? And what's with the chirping noise from behind the fuse panel???
 
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 12:04 AM
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Before you tear it apart, try and turn the engine over by hand (socket and breaker bar on crank bolt).
 
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 07:19 AM
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The GEM controls your interior gadgets. I would doubt your GEM is causing everything to be completely dead. I had water issues with my GEM-fuse block connectors and it would always keep the defrost on, and with KOEO it would chirp like what yours is. I took the GEM and Fuse block out, inspected, cleaned and reinstalled with no issues so far(after the windshield was replaced)

Better hope is not the GEM because they are currently discontinued! Closest one I could find was in the Virgin Islands. There are ones on ebay....but thats ebay...
 
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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From: Sullivan, MO
Originally Posted by Shake-N-Bake
Before you tear it apart, try and turn the engine over by hand (socket and breaker bar on crank bolt).
ok, which direction should I try to turn it?? as you face the engine, it DOES turn counter-clockwise. Also, how much resistance should I get out of it?? It's fairly tough, but not too tough. I did not get 1 full revolution out of it b/c I ran out of time. I'm gonna mess with it more tomorrow morning.

Also, i had both batteries tested and they are both good; they were both @ 12.88V, 100% charge and passed a load test rated for 850CCA.

Anyone have any other ideas?????
 
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by diamondjranch
ok, which direction should I try to turn it?? as you face the engine, it DOES turn counter-clockwise. Also, how much resistance should I get out of it?? It's fairly tough, but not too tough. I did not get 1 full revolution out of it b/c I ran out of time. I'm gonna mess with it more tomorrow morning.

Also, i had both batteries tested and they are both good; they were both @ 12.88V, 100% charge and passed a load test rated for 850CCA.

Anyone have any other ideas?????
The engine rotates clockwise as you are looking at the front crank pulley. I should rotate fairly easily if you go slow.

If I read your post correctly....it did not rotate clockwise but did turn counter-clockwise for a bit and then stopped. If so, then you may have a hydrolock problem. Next action is to remove all the glow plugs and rotate the engine with a breaker bar a few times.

Then (while the glow plugs are still out), unplug the CPS sensor, loosely secure the valve covers with a couple of bolts and try cranking over the engine with the starter. Hopefully your loss of electrical power issue does not re-occur.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 10:05 PM
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From: Sullivan, MO
Sorry, I should've been more specific. I was able to turn the engine counter-clockwise, but I did not try to turn it clockwise. I was short on time, and since I wasn't sure which direction I needed to go, I just went one, hoping it was correct. I'll try turning it clockwise in the morning. Thanks for all the responses.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #11  
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From: Sullivan, MO
Update

Thanks to all of you who responded to my queries. I was able to turn the engine over by hand clockwise. I did several revolutions, and seemed like everything was working fine. I reinstalled the batteries, hooked up both positives and 1 of the negatives, and went back to the cab; the chirping noise was still there. Thought to myself, "Why not?" and hooked up the other negative. at this point, I returned to the cab, and no chirping!! Stuck the key in the ignition, and the door dinger started going. AWESOME!!! Hit the key and it's turning over just fine now. Not started yet, but that's another issue I started fighting before the major disassembly. In short, I'm finally back to where I was about 2 weeks ago. Again, thanks for all the helpful suggestions.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 10:27 AM
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Progress.
Good to hear that it's not a hydrolock problem.
You will want to make sure you have plenty of voltage in order for the engine to fire. Usually takes about 10 or more volts...

It might take a fair amount of cranking before the engine fires up. Try not to overheat the starter. When I did the HPOP o rings on my truck it took a bit of cranking before I got it started again. (just an FYI...)

 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 03:17 AM
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From: Sullivan, MO
Well, it did this same thing to me again last night. Just out of the blue, 1/2 crank and everything, EVERYTHING went dead. Same "chirping noise," and my g/f heard it this time, too, from about 8 feet away. It really acts like 2 completely dead batteries. However, I take them out, take them to get tested, and they're fine. Both of them today were 12.8V and 100% charged when I put them on the tester. Both of them easily passed the load test for 850 CCA batteries. Each one took about 10 minutes to recharge what the load test took out. I went back across town, reinstalled the batteries, and the truck fired up easily, like nothing was wrong.

It seems like there's something causing the power to be cut, but then, after unhooking the batteries for 30-45 minutes, it resets itself, and there's nothing wrong. But the question is, WHAT IS IT???? It's not something getting wet; it started fine all day, several times, and it hasn't had a problem, even when it rained here last Saturday.

If someone's got an idea for something I can try or test, it'd be greatly appreciated. I know my battery disconnecting tools are gonna go in my in-truck toolbag, just in case for next time!!
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 06:12 AM
  #14  
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My next steps if it were my truck would be to re-check the area i was working in and make 100% sure all electrical connections and MOST importantly...Grounds are tight and clean. These trucks are sensitive to grounds and loose connections, even if one of the batteries arent getting a solid ground it will cause issues..i've had this issue before on one of the vans. i also had a similar issue once on one of the pickups and it was a dead cell in one of the batteries....and it load tested OK at Autozone but not on a quality load tester.

But since your problem came after you performed work...it sounds like a ground issue/loose connection to me.
 
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