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adjusting manual choke

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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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adjusting manual choke

I have installed a manual choke on a Carter YF, which is on a 1975 300/6, 3-spd std. Installing was easy, but I don't know how to adjust it in terms of the space between the plate and the carb body . I realize it shouldn't close all the way when it's closed, and that when it's wide open the choke plunger on the dash should be all the way in. But, when is it "wide open"? When the plate is on a bit of angle it runs OK, but the closer it gets to straight up and down, the more it stumbles and then dies. I assume there is a certain clearance it should have when it's wide open, but I don't know what that is. My manual has specs for dechoke" and "choke pulldown" but I'm not sure whether these would apply to the manual choke and how. Can anyone offer any guidance? Thanks
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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You'll have to find a happy medium. A choke pull off or automatic choke will move back and forth alittle bit to compensate for the throttle action.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Coyote
When the plate is on a bit of angle it runs OK, but the closer it gets to straight up and down, the more it stumbles and then dies.
This shouldn't be, unless the engine is still cold.

Assuming the engine is warmed up, the choke should be completely vertical, & the engine running smoothly.......if not there is another problem, like a vacuum leak, or simply adjustments.

In the 'choke closed' position, the plate can be fully closed or just cracked open a fraction.

Mine closes completely & starts fine; I open the choke halfway as soon as it starts.
It's also an ex-automatic choke...........an Autolite 2150 carb.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 11:43 PM
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Thanks for the advice. The engine is certainly at operating temperature when I have this problem. If the choke plate should be vertical, maybe I might need to step up the idle a bit so it doesn't stall ??
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 05:21 AM
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Possibly, but that might be camouflaging a problem too.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 06:40 AM
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Good point Ken. I see you're an early riser, by the way. I've considered it might be a vacuum leak. As you know, these are pretty simple engines and the leak possibilities are limited. I've checked all the obvious places like ports, etc.. I wonder about the manifold and gasket. Not sure how a fella would go about checking that.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 06:45 AM
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A spray can of carb cleaner is useful for finding vacuum leaks. When you spray around a leak you will hear a change in rpm's as it is sucking it into engine.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 09:06 AM
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Took out a can of carb cleaner and sure enough when I spray it along the seam of the intake manifold and the head, the engine revs up and steadies. Looks like a gasket job coming up. Thanks again guys.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 10:34 AM
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By the way, I've heard of guys using a sealant like The Right Stuff or Permatex Copper to provide extra sealing on the intake gasket (I assume where it mounts to the head). Anyone had any experience with this or can advise when or if it should be done?
 
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