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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 04:19 PM
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Engine Question

Hey, new poster, just recently started to get in to engines and my first vehicle I'm working on is my '85 F-150 5.8L V8 Lariat... Recently my engine has become very loud, and I finally tracked down the source of the problem, yet unfortunately I've been stumped on tracking down the name of the piece.

Uploaded is the photo with an arrow pointing to the item that is the culprit. This sits right behind my carburetor and I'm sure if a part of the exhaust.

Any help on identifying said item so I could attempt to replace/repair it would be phenomenal, please be gentle though, I'm still learning.
-Brandon
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 05:06 PM
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Took a few more pictures without the air filter housing in the way, the pictures are from the outside moving in.

 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 05:41 PM
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That looks like the (Thermactor System) air injection check valve. Looks like the top "nipple" broke off where the rubber hose attaches. Is there a hose hanging back there (like the size of a heater hose)?
If you trace the hose from the air pump, does it end at that valve?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 06:34 PM
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Good job, CB! And reps to you. That's exactly what it is.

Brandonito - Where do you live? Do you have to have emissions equipment on and working to pass a test. If so, you will need to replace any of the faulty equipment. If so, I may have an old one you can have if you pay shipping costs, but I'm not really sure it is good to start with an old one as they are prone to rust and fail.

Attached is a drawing of your system - I think. It will let you figure out what is bad, and from that I can get you the part #, or you can go to a part store to get it.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 07:11 PM
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Thanks for the help! It was most definitely the air injection check valve. It seems the guy that owned it before me sort of rigged it with some hose, a metal lug and some pvc cement. The rust finally gave way and the rig popped off, I found it sitting on the frame after some extensive searching.
Now to replace it. Also, thanks for the offer Gary but I think I'll just buy one, the AutoZone near me has one for like $35 or so brand new. I'm just hoping when I remove the rusted remainder that the line doesn't crack. As for emissions testing, I'm in Louisville, KY, so no emissions testing anymore.

Here is a picture of the rig the guy had put on there.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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Yep, that's a jury-rig alright. Be really careful with the manifold that goes across the back of the head as they are usually very delicate due to rust. I applaud you for going back with the emissions system. Most people would remove it instead of spending $35 and maybe more to get it back in service. They take a 5/8-11 bolt, shorten it to 3/8" long, and run it in the tapped hole in the back of the block where that manifold bolts on. Then they take the pump and associated plumbing off, bending over and crimping the tube that goes to the exhaust pipe.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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Gary, the only problem I see is he doesn't have any of the other parts needed for the thermactor system.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Gary, the only problem I see is he doesn't have any of the other parts needed for the thermactor system.
Yep, that's why I said "$35 and maybe more". I doubt he can get all of the pieces even from a salvage, and piecing together a system that most people have discarded the parts for long ago is going to be pricey.

But, I can't advocate taking it off as that's not PC, environmentally friendly, nor legal - although I can explain how others have done it so he knows what not to do.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 10:46 PM
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Yep, as mentioned I'm having a heck of a time tracking down the rest of the parts. Since emissions testing is nonexistant here, I think I might cap it off for now so my engine quiets down, and track the pieces down over the next few weeks and try to get it back together.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 06:38 AM
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Instead of buying a valve, if you can get the remnants of the old one off you can use a pipe cap in place of it. That won't rust through.
 
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