I have an 06 F150 2wd that needs both lower ball joints. I've done searches and everyone keeps talking about a big freaking hammer. Can't you just use a ball joint press kit to remove and reinstall these? If no I'm gonna find someone to put them in for me because Im scared of breaking the aluminum control arm. There was also some talk of using some sorta glue on the joints as well. Has anyone heard of this and where to get it?

 

I did them on my F-150 4x4 which is much more involved than a 2wd truck... I did not need a Big hammer...

I used the Ball joint press from Advanced auto - it is the kit that has 23 pieces or so - it worked great

Don't be afraid of the Aluminum! It won't bite..

 

I used a ball joint press to do mine....

 

Thanks I will yank a wheel off tomorrow to see what is involved. Of all the work to do on a truck the front suspension is the one thing I hate. Thanks

 

It really isn't that involved.... like I said rent a good ball joint press.. I replaced my 4wd ball joints in 3 hours, I had an impact wrench and lift though

 

I have an impact and a good jack and jack stands. Did you have to completely remove the steering knuckle or can you just seperate the lower ball joint and and tie the knuckle and the upper control arm up out of the way? Thanks again I think I will probably do it next weekend, when I took it to ford for the allignement the tech said they were loose and showed me but said that I still had a little while and he could still allign it . I already have a full load this weekend.

 

For a 2wd, you could probably just pop the lower ball joint out, remove the tie-rod and tie the knuckle up as you said... But you are only 1 nut and 1 good wack with a hammer away from completely removing the knuckle which I personally would do.... just easier / more room for ball joint press.

I would purchase Moog Ball joints as they come with grease fittings.

Torques in case you are curious (direct from my 06 F-150 Ford Service manual)

Brake caliber anchor plate - 148 ft-lbs
Tie-rod end nut - 111 ft-lbs
Lower ball joint nut - 111 ft-lbs
Upper ball joint nut - 85 ft-lbs

Good Luck! Not a hard job at all...

-CS-

 

Well I was going by what the ford tech had said and after I removed the wheel it seems that they were just trying to get money from me. A mechanic friend of mine came by to verify what I found to be two perfectly good ball joints. Mechanic shop like this really pi## me off. Thanks for all the help.

 

They don't call them Stealerships for nothing! Here is my Rant - Off topic but a good story either way

I had my truck into the Stealership for a regular 5,000 mile checkup/oil change. They came out and said my rear axle pinion was leaking. I was like ok - how bad? They said it was wet.. but no drops of oil.. Then they said they had all the parts and could repair it. I was like how much? --- $250. $150 to drain and fill the rear Diff, $30 for the seal and $70 in labor...

I said - NOPE - I will take a look at it when I get home..

So I got home and crawled under my truck and indeed it was leaking.. So I cracked my handy 2006 Ford F-150 Factory service manual... and NO WHERE in the manual does it state that I needed to remove the rear differential cover to do this repair... So I bought a new seal for $12, $20 for a Quart of Mobil 1 gear oil w/LS additive and 1 hour of my time... FIXED

Needless to say I stopped going to that Stealership -- Which by the way is Salem Ford in Salem, NH.

I did however stop by there the other day as I was in the area and I happen to have my service manual with me... I went in and spoke to the same service advisor, asked to see the service manager and then proceeded to open the Ford Factory service manual and show them that there was no need to drain and fill the rear Diff to replaced the rear axle pinion seal. Then I simply told them that thanks for trying to RIP ME OFF and walked out... (They probably lost a few customers that day as I was quite vocal )

That is the reason that Stealership (Salem Ford, Salem NH) will never touch my truck again....