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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 02:27 PM
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PLEASE HELP!!

Just built a 71 400 motor and put it in a 79 pickup. I put it in time and tuned the carb. She would fire up as soon as you hit the key and idle till it ran out of gas. I got the truck out of the garage the other day and was testin the power on the black top. Had her walkin sideways in 3rd gear yeehaww. Anyway i pulled back into the garage and was about to shut it off then it stalled out itsself.Now when you start it you have to be on the gas, it will not idle and it backfires when you let off the gas. Too much money in this motor for it to sit around. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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How many miles did ya get on the motor? Was it a full rebuild? Sounds like a vacuum leak some where, Thats why you need to on the gas well starting it and it wont idol or the disturber moved.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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It was a total rebuild.I went with the edelbrock performer intake and blocked offall vacume ports on the motor and intake. I played with the distributor a little bit.Anyway it could be a valve train problem?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Did ya over rev it? You should never hot rod a new engine nothing has time to seat, You may have bent a valve or a push rod.....A new engine you could of even broke the cam or a valve spring, Do a compression test,Pull the valve covers and check the push rods.

A compression test will tell you if its a valve.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 08:20 PM
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If you ran it out of fuel it may have sucked some junk into the filter/carb
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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No it was one of my plugs for the vacume on my intake was leaking so you were right the first time.Thanks for the help
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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I'm with Kobalt. How was the engine broken in?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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Now you found the problem.....Be gentile on it until you get at least 500 miles and change the oil filter at 100 miles then change the oil and filter at 500...Then go to normal fluid changes after that, Good thing it was an easy fix.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by kobaltblue
Now you found the problem.....Be gentile on it until you get at least 500 miles and change the oil filter at 100 miles then change the oil and filter at 500...Then go to normal fluid changes after that, Good thing it was an easy fix.

+1 on that!!
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 09:33 PM
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Thanks guys. And yes it was a total rebuild new bearings, bored, cammed all the goods and it is now my pride and joy lol. What would be the best type of oil and oil weight to be running in it at this time.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by GillisB93
Thanks guys. And yes it was a total rebuild new bearings, bored, cammed all the goods and it is now my pride and joy lol. What would be the best type of oil and oil weight to be running in it at this time.
Several companies like Competition Cams and Edelbrock make a break in oil. Not really necessary to use these though.
What ever oil you do use be sure it's a quality oil and one with a high concentration of ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate). Thanks to the EPA all major oil companies have removed this additive from their oil formulas. This doesn't hurt engine with roller tappets but it is a death sentence for flat tappet cams like our trucks have.
You can have complete cam and lifter failure within a few hundred miles.
This is what your lifters could look like without ZDDP.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 11:10 PM
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zinc

yes a must with the zinc,your engine buider probably informed you
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:49 PM
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i was the engine builder
 
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