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To 427 Fordman, thankyou very much I really apreciate all the excellent advice. If you are ever in my neck of the woods I diffenetly owe you a beer. Thanks again.
But wouldnt you think that since my truck is a 1 ton and his being a 3/4 ton that the gearing in mine would be 4.10?
It's likely, but not what I'd call a safe bet. One way to find out is to check the tag on the diff cover, it'll say 3.55 or 4.10 somewhere on there. The other way is to look on the door jamb sticker, get the axle code, you can look up that up to get the ratio.
Granted, these methods will only tell you stock format, they could very well have been changed at some point. The not so scientific method is to see what kind of RPMs you run at 70 in OD. Mine with the E40D and 3.55s is right around 2000 rpm at 70. But this varies with tire sizes, etc.
If you know what rpm's you run at a certain speed and have stockish height tires we can tell you what gears you have. Mine at 75 in OD is 2050rpm's with 3.55's and an auto. I looked back and saw you have 285's so if you have an auto, rpm's should be a real little bit less than mine with 3.55's. With 4.10's at that speed you're looking at 500 or so more rpm's. A stick shift truck will be about 100 rpms higher than an automatic no matter the gearing if I remember right.
When I first bought mine, I was a little disappointed with the way it towed as well. This is my first diesel, so I thought it should pull all day. A few mods and getting there, I'll be extatic if my chip ever shows up.
The other thing to think about that took me a bit to figure out, is the power band in these trucks. They love the RPMs. Mine won't tow heavy worth a snot if I'm not north of 2200. Up there and it pulls like it should. I'm not saying you are, but don't lug it with these motors.
Subscribing cause I need to follow along and check out the same things. Since I feel mind should have a touch more power then it does. Changing out the exhaust in the next few days. Hoping its sitting on my porch when I get home.
So now the next question is what do you guys think of an edge 3 stage programmer? Worth $550.00 or do something different? Im not the type whos looking for black smoke or lift just want some better towing power.(I aint no black smoke dodge fan)
Ya stay away from the edge products with these trucks. More than one time have they fried a pcm. What Mike listed above is the way to go, most if not all are cheaper than 550 bucks, and will give you more power than the edge.
When I first bought my truck the guy was showing me how to use the edge programmer and it did fry the pcm had to get another he paid for it and it wasnt cheap. Once again you guys are great thanks for everything.
I started looking at tuners that fordpride recomended and found that Im out of my league. All I want is more power. Not a big computer/electrical guy so if theres tips or tricks let me know. Plus not sure if I need 6 positions. And my truck is a 5 speed not sure if that makes a difference in a chip or not. and do I need a boost relief valve?
I started looking at tuners that fordpride recomended and found that Im out of my league. All I want is more power. Not a big computer/electrical guy so if theres tips or tricks let me know. Plus not sure if I need 6 positions. And my truck is a 5 speed not sure if that makes a difference in a chip or not. and do I need a boost relief valve?
You can try the 10K mod. I ran a 15.6K resistor for a couple yrs with no problems. Very cheap and a little more power.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.