i've been lookin around for info on fenderwell headers, i have a set layin here that i am thinking of adding to my '78 bronco c6 np203 (soon to have np205), i already have 4" suspension lift and 38's. i know i will have to trim the inner fenders a little bit, but in one post a guy said you gotta pull the motor, is this true? any help is aprreciated!

 

Shouldn't have to pull the engine. I helped finish the exhaust on an F250 with fender wells and if I can remember right he pulled the inner fenders off to do it.

 

Long story I could not find the link to my thread so have a cold one and read on.

This a story about changing from stock exhaust manifolds to fenderwell exit headers. Or if you are just changing stock exhaust manifold gaskets. Truck is a 79 F250 4x4 351M 4 spd.
The #1 thing in my book is to LUBE THE HELL outa those soon to be old exhaust bolts.
I would use PB blaster or Sea Foam Deep Creep. If the vehicle is not your daily driver, soak them as much a possible for like a week straight.
Use the red tube to get right in there, spray the top side of the bolt head and let it soak. This step is very important because you do not want to break off any of those bolts.
I have heard of heating up the bolts with a torch, good way to burn up your valve cover gaskets, and catch fire to your sprayed on lube, I always change them cold.
I even heard of starting the truck to heat up those bolts, great way to burn your hands and fingers. Remember LUBE LUBE LUBE, jack up truck to a comfortable working height, take off front tires. And do all the other safety stuff, block rear tires ect....

I start on the passenger side, it’s always easier. Do not try to "snap" torque the bolts loose, use a slow draw break torque. And use a quality socket, as straight on as possible.
If you break one, don't panic, you do not have to remove the head to fix this problem, at least I didn't, and I broke 3 on pass side and 2 on dvs side, on 1 truck and 2 and 2 on another.
If you do continue removing the rest of the bolts, hopefully with better luck. And then ditch that ol heavy stock factory manifold, do not throw them away those stock suckers are pricey especially the dvs side, why I do not know.
If there is any bolt left sticking out of the head after you remove the rest of them and the exhaust manifold maybe you can vice grip it and get it to break loose. Probably not, and you only gouge it up.
Some guys say they can weld a nut on there and get it out, those guys are luckier than me. If it’s broke flush with the head, just keep reading.
If you do break a bolt, use a GOOD QUALITY set of drill bits to drill it out. Use a center punch to make sure you start in the middle, VERY IMPORTANT. Start with a smaller bit and work your way up to a bigger one.
Match your drill bit to your tap size needed for the correct bolt size. 7/16 1/2 or 9/16 can't remember. I would then tap in new threads. As a tech note if you are going to re-tap the hole weld the tap into a old 3/8 drive socket that way you can get in there with a extension and get it tapped right the first time.
I WOULD NOT USE A EASY OUT, been there done that, broke it off in the hole, another long story.
If you are having trouble tapping in new threads, might be able to use a "helicoil" thread insert, easy to use, buy it in a kit, just have to drill out a bigger hole to insert the thread coil. Debur or run a tap in to clean out the old holes best you can.
Get new hardware, grade 8 or better, do not use the hdwr provided (junk) not enough washer face to the header flange. I got mine with a premade large washer, and use the lock washers with the little face to face lock teeth.
Not sure that they are called, got them and my bolts from Fastenall, use some thick header gaskets from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, pricey but awesome. Make sure you use anti seize compound on the hardware.
DO NOT have any solvent on your hands when you install the gaskets, it will cause a hot spot on the gasket and burn it up. Passenger side inner fenderwell will need a bit of trimming or bend outa the way for now, trim later.
2 people makes this part a lot easier, while you wrestle the header into position, from under the truck, your helper will align the gaskets and start the bolts, all hand tight at first.
If you are having trouble getting it in, try taking off the shock tower, 3 bolts ? Might give you more wiggle room, did for me especially on the dvs side. Evenly tighten down bolts, all the while making sure the header doesn't catch on anything.
Ck the clearance on the cab mount frame bracket to the collector area, grind the bracket as needed. Use a quality audible Tq wrench, start at minimum working your way to max. STOP THERE, DRINK ONE BEER, AND GET READY FOR OTHER SIDE.
Ok on dvs side, remove dip stick and tube (plug pan to stop oil leak) and brake line coil from master cylinder to frame mounted proportional valve. Cap/plug all opening, brake fluid in the eye is a M...F....
Probably have to remove that brake line clamp plate from back side of shock tower, remember to take tower outa the way also. Bend/trim inner metal fenderwell and install in same order as passenger side.
Reinstall all the other stuff you took off, remember to re-bleed brakes. Make sure nothing is touching your headers, spark plug wires, fuel line ect...I would start the truck with open headers, so you can soak up the fruits of your hard labor.
Some smoke is normal from all the lube and the paint burning off YOUR new headers. Let truck idle, blip throttle to scare the neighbors, again make sure nothing is touching the headers.
Decide if you are man enough to drive it around the block, let idle till all the smoke quits. Shut off and do a torque ck on those bolts. CAREFULL THE HEADERS ARE HOT
The torque will be different due to the bolts being hot now, do a minimum tq ck. Start in middle and work you out.
Decide what exhaust system you want to use, cherry bombs, flowmasters, I prefer straights to stacks. If you are not going to do it yourself, make appt with muffler shop, have fun driving there. Remember you can install a Y-style muffler bypass with cap.
I do another cold torque ck then next day. And then again in a day or two after they settle in place from driving/muffler hanging on them. If you used those cool lock washers should have no problems.
I know this is long but hope it helps, have fun let us know how it turns out, and throw in a pic.
If you own a ½ ton go to this thread 7-24-2010 “My 460 needs to be heard” ½ ton swap with pics.

 

Welding a nut on a broken bolt works along as it get it the first try or two
Just PB em and let em sit for 20 mins hit em again and then go hit with a impact

 

No, you don't have to remove the engine. They go in from the outside. You might have to move the brake lines around some from the master cylinder. You don't have to cut the inner fenders, probably just get away with bending them up some.

 

Thank you everyone, i have been soaking them with pb the last few days, hopefully n the next few days i can get started,probably heading to FORD CARLISLE friday, so that may put a damper in a lil work time!

 

Start with the passenger side like others have said, it's a LOT easier. I have an F250 - so my suspension is a little different. I didn't have to remove ANYTHING on the passenger side to get the header to fit.

I just had to cut about 1.5" off the bottom of the inner fender across from the back to approximately where the #2 cylinder is.

The drivers side is a little more difficult (especially for 4wd, apparently). That side had to be bent/cut as well, but the shock tower also had to be removed. Then, the brake lines between the proportioning valve and the Master cylinder had to be modified - they bolt to the frame on the F250's, and I had to unbolt and bend them gently out of the way. Lastly, the steering shaft had to be removed.

THEN, I was able to install the headers. The steering shaft went back in with some modifications (had to unbolt it under the dash, two bolts, slide it "up" into the can about 1", then re-tighten, as well as grinding down the u-bolt yoke). Then I was able to put the shock tower back on - except I wasn't because the upper hole needed to be oval'd out so that the shock tower wouldn't hit the header (on the F250's the drivers side shock tower is AFT of the axle, on the passengers side it's in front of the axle). Then it all went back together.

It was a lot of work for mine - but I also had issues with everything from broken easy-outs to stupid crap the previous owner did.

-Brad

 

Well i squeezed some time in on the bronco, after soaking the bolts the last 3 days or so with pb blaster, they all came out rather easy. So as of now the old exhaust and manifolds are removed. For some reason, i decided to remove the NP203 at this point also, so the drive shafts and tranfer case are out now too. I think i have the correct driveshafts and lock outs laying here now but have to grab my np205 yet. It may be a few days till i get to work on it again but its coming apart easily so far, knock on wood!