So i am wanting to put headers on my 77 f150 but i am not sure what i gotta do to get them on and ii dont know if it is a job i can tackle myself. It is a 77 f150 with a 400 motor. How hard of a job is it t do?

 

Getting the original manifolds off is the worst part. The best-case scenario is all of the exhaust manifold bolts come out with ease. The worst-case scenario is you break several bolts off at the back of the motor, down in the threads, in which case you're stuck using any method you can to get them out (Easy-Out, etc). With that in mind, my advice to you is to take your time. Soak the bolts in PB-Blaster, a few times a day, for several days depending on how they look (exhaust parts are rusty). Don't rush it, and don't start this project without a back-up plan. Don't do this on a truck that you have to use to get to work the next day, because if you break off a bolt in the cylinder head, you'll add significant time to the project. It's not unheard of for someone to have to pull a cylinder head and bring it to a machine shop to have a bolt removed (absolute worst-case, but it's happened before).

Once the old manifolds are off, snaking the new headers in can be a challenge. What are you planning on doing for exhaust? The stock setup will have to go.

 

Yea headers on anything old is a big head ache waiting to happen. You will have to get a new exhast system made anyway- or at least your down pipes modified to work with the headers. I say if your a little uneasy about it now, you should probably just put in some extra o/t at work, then take it to an exhaust shop and let them deal with the bloody knuckles and broken bolts. No shame in that.

 

If you are using fender well exit you are alot better off, makes for a easy hook up of the rest of your exhaust sys. Inside the frame exit ones can fall out right close to the trans crossmember and make for a PITA to finish the exhaust sys. I know I have a set on my
F150 4x4 351M auto, what a pain.

The below instructions are for Hedeman fenderwell exit, on my 79 F250 4x4 400 4spd, but give it a read to get a idea. Easy job about any FORD nut can do it, hell I think they are fun to put on now.

The #1 thing in my book is to LUBE THE HELL outa those soon to be old exhaust bolts.

I would use PB blaster or Sea Foam Deep Creep. If the vehicle is not your daily driver, soak them as much a possible for like a week straight.

Use the red tube to get right in there, spray the top side of the bolt head and let it soak. This step is very important because you do not want to break off any of those bolts.

I have heard of heating up the bolts with a torch, good way to burn up your valve cover gaskets, and catch fire to your sprayed on lube, I always change them cold.

I even heard of starting the truck to heat up those bolts, great way to burn your hands and fingers. Remember LUBE LUBE LUBE, jack up truck to a comfortable working height, take off front tires. And do all the other safety stuff, block rear tires ect....

I start on the passenger side, it’s always easier. Do not try to "snap" torque the bolts loose, use a slow draw break torque. And use a quality socket, as straight on as possible.

If you break one, don't panic, you do not have to remove the head to fix this problem, at least I didn't, and I broke 3 on pass side and 2 on dvs side, on 1 truck and 2 and 2 on another.

If you do continue removing the rest of the bolts, hopefully with better luck. And then ditch that ol heavy stock factory manifold, do not throw them away those stock suckers are pricy especially the dvs side, why I do not know.

If you do break a bolt, use a GOOD QUALITY set of drill bits to drill it out. Use a center punch to make sure you start in the middle, VERY IMPORTANT. Start with a smaller bit and work your way up to a bigger one.

Match your drill bit to your tap size needed for the correct bolt size. 7/16 1/2 or 9/16 can't remember. I would then tap in new threads. I WOULD NOT USE A EASY OUT, been there done that, broke it off in the hole, another long story.

If you are having trouble tapping in new threads, might be able to use a "helicoil" thread insert, easy to use, buy it in a kit, just have to drill out a bigger hole to insert the thread coil. Debur or run a tap in to clean out the old holes best you can.

Get new hardware, gd 8 or better, do not use the hdwr provided (junk) not enough washer face to the header flange. I got mine with a premade large washer, and use the lock washers with the little face to face lock teeth.

Not sure that they are called, got them and my bolts from Fastenall, use some thick header gaskets from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, pricy but awesome. Make sure you use anti seize compound on the hardware.

DO NOT have any solvent on your hands when you install the gaskets, it will cause a hot spot on the gasket and burn it up. Passenger side will need a bit of trimming or bend outa the way for now, trim later.

2 people makes this part a lot easier, while you wrestle the header into position, from under the truck, your helper will align the gaskets and start the bolts, all hand tight at first.

If you are having trouble getting it in, try taking off the shock tower, 3 bolts? Might give you more wiggle room, did for me especially on the dvs side. Evenly tighten down bolts, all the while making sure the header doesn't catch on anything.

Ck the clearance on the cab mount frame bracket to the collector area, grind the bracket as needed. Use a quality audioable Tq wrench, start at minimum working your way to max. STOP THERE, DRINK ONE BEER, AND GET READY FOR OTHER SIDE.

Ok on dvs side, remove dip stick and tube (plug pan to stop oil leak) and brake line coil from master cylinder to frame mounted proportional valve. Cap/plug all opening, brake fluid in the eye is a m...F....

Probably have to remove that brake line clamp plate from back side of shock tower, remember to take tower outa the way also. Bend/trim inner metal fenderwell and install in same order as passenger side.

Reinstall all the other stuff you took off, remember to re-bleed brakes. Make sure nothing is touching your headers, spark plug wires, fuel line ect...I would start the truck with open headers, so you can soak up the fruits of your hard labor.

Some smoke is normal from all the lube and the paint burning off YOUR new headers. Let truck idle, blip throttle to scare the neighbors, again make sure nothing is touching the headers.

Decide if you are man enough to drive it around the block, let idle till all the smoke quits. Shut off and do a torque ck on those bolts. CAREFULL THE HEADERS ARE HOT
The torque will be different due to the bolts being hot now, do a minimum tq ck.

Decide what exhaust system you want to use, cherry bombs, flowmasters, I prefer straights to stacks. If you are not going to do it yourself, make appt with muffler shop, have fun driving there. Remember you can install a Y-style muffler bypass with cap.

After a few days of driving truck around, do another "Hot" torque ck and than "cold" one. If you used those cool lock washers should have no problems.

I know this is long but hope it helps, have fun let us know how it turns out, and throw in a pic.

 

That was long. It's all good. Especially the part about taking a beer break.

Good reason to put headers on any truck.

 

I wish someone had told half that stuff, when I changed some exhaust manifolds gaskets on my 77 and broke 3 bolts on the pass side and 2 on the drvs side.

Then broke a drill bit off in the left over piece of bolt, and then a easyout off in another one. Made for a lot of work, with out removing the heads, but discovered "helicoil's" along the way.

Since that I have swapped a # of header's and don't get near as mad when I brake a bolt. Some times an almost step by step procedure it what a fellow FORD nut needs to give him the confidence to tackle a job.

Just my 2 cents, that ended up being $8.95 worth, sorry.
LOL, crack open another cold barley pop.

 

well i guess it shouldnt be too bad then i was just not sure if there was any secret to doing it. It'll be somewhat easy for me because i just had the engine rebuilt and it isnt back in the truck yet so i will have lotsof manuverability. As for a system i plan on hedman headers into 2 1/2" dual flowmaster super40's with 3" tips straight out the back

 

Ought to sound nice with that set up, are you going to use inside frame exit or fenderwell exit?

IMO, fenderwell are the best, and get alot of the heat outside the eng compartment, and makes for an easier starter change, exhaust sys configuring.

But with your truck being 2wd, you might have to shop around quit a bit? What ever you use I would place them in the truck frame first, then hang motor, and bolt up afterwards.

Let us know how it turns out and throw in some pics.

 

I"m running headman elite series shortys on my F350, And have used longtubes before. I'm not sue what these fenderwell exit headers are, does anyone have pictures of them installed? I'm really curious. Thanks

 

I call "fenderwell exit headers" the ones that come off your heads and go inbetween the inner fenderwell and frame, exiting to the outside by your cab mounts.

Non fenderwell exit headers exit inside the frame closer to the block. Picture #1 is inside the frame exit headers, see the crazy routing of the exhaust system, all around the tranny/xfer case crossmember.

Pic #2 is fenderwell exit header's, somtimes you need a lift and correct front wheel spacing so your tires do not rub when you are at full turn left and right.

 

*off topic* those are couple of really sweet trucks! *back on topic*

 

Yea I agree that's why they are in my dream gallery, and I figured they showed the two differences in the headers pretty well.

I use those pics and a few more to modivate me to stick with the work on my rigs, great Ford trucks come to those who bust ****.

Here is another one, don't ask just enjoy. Back on topic, ok.

 

Is there a truck in that pic??? lol

 

Nice headlights!

 

hey buy new bolts!!!! solves that problem. and then find some thicker header gaskets and torque to specks. if you use factory fit you shouldnt have any difficulties ! good luck