No doubt the rpm signal comes from the CKP. It just might require a valid CMP signal to display though.

Javo - try the test procedure described in post #7 of the link I posted - and keep us informed.

 

and for some reason I also just had it in my mind that any auto Tach signal came from a CMP sensor not just a 6.0L It might vary auto to auto and I need to throw that therory out


ya this from page 44 pretty well confirms it

Diagnosing SYNC:

• No SYNC with an RPM signal typically is a faulty CMP sensor/circuit problem.

• No SYNC and no RPM signal, typically is a faulty CKP sensor/circuit problem


Its almost like the 2 diffrent bibles contradict each other IDK

 

I've prob over simplified my understanding of this but I though the CKP signal was used for RPM data and timing events and the CMP was only the reference for what stroke the engine was on?

 

Thank you all so much for the help and input. I just got back because my backup transportation (the mustang in my signature) had a bad alternator so I went and got a new one. I figure if I can't resolve the issues with my truck today I can still get around while I work out my issues.

For giggles I did go out and try to start it again thinking "maybe" whatever got wet and caused this issue would now be dry and it would start. No such luck.

I will certainly update you all as I do tests and get results. I'm sure with your help I will find the cause and solution. Hopefully this thread can then help someone else someday who would have the same issue. I love FTE!!

 

I have an 06 havin the same issues! No tach reading but oil pressure going up! I replaced the cam sensor (right behind the power steering pump(much easier to just remove the pump)) But with no results. So I got a budy of mine with a ford scanner and it said it was the crank sensor. So here I am tryin to find where the crank sensor is! Thanks for your post the replys have helped alot! I will add this though... mine was NOT running rough when it died just rounding a corner and when I got back on the gas it just went out... BUT I had the problems with it running rough and then dying and not starting before and it turned out to be the IPR... Injector Pressure Regulator which is behind the turbo on the back of the motor. Hope this helps a little anyway!

 

Let us know what you find. I am having a recurring problem with the no sync. I thought I had it licked by replacing the FICM relay. The FICM wasn't getting any logic power, but it was putting out 48v. So check your FICM relay and fuse. If you decide to use 2 jumpers to check it, pull the fuse first or it will blow. I know.

 

I think Bismic has the answer your looking for along with instructions. Check out post #9 of this thread, he laid it all out in detail. Hope it helps you.

BTW - Blade.... tried to rep ya for your help and input however the rep gods are not seeing things my way. Thank you though.

I was able to rep you Bismic, thanks for the input.

 

It's a bitch to get to.

ckp sensor
https://www.box.com/s/05d56b13cd99dd6ab5f1

ckp diagnostics
https://www.box.com/s/447a12792371ccceb6c4

cmp diagnostics
https://www.box.com/s/45360e16a0ee1cb3c322

ckp/cmp wiring
https://www.box.com/s/f1836731dc345ee7726e

 

Quick update... no real news. I'm looking for some type of schematic that tells me where the pins are located on the pcm so I can test the two wires mentioned in link Bismic provided. My battery charger says my batteries are pretty depleted so I am charging them now. I know that in itself can cause a no start issue even though I don't believe thats my problem. Just playing it safe by eliminating easy possibilities before moving forward.

I started another thread that simply asked the question about my tach reading zero while cranking. One of the guys replied and said he went out to his truck and watched his tac while cranking and it stayed at zero until the truck started and he backed the key off. This makes me wonder if I'm looking in the wrong direction since my reader tells me I'm getting rpms while cranking.

Discouraged and disgusted at this point. Fixing mechanical problems isn't too bad, but chasing down an electrical issue is a nightmare. I'm wondering if it wouldn't be worth towing it to a shop were they can hook up a real scanner and chase the problem down.

 

I posted a link to the pcm connectors in your other thread.

Did you check your ficm relay and fuse?

Electrical issues are a PIA. I am still fighting my issue.

 

Javo -

Since Steve posted up in your other thread that the Tach will not read during cranking, only in the run position, then you are probably good on the CKP and CMP sensors.

Do you have a way to see if you have SYNC and FICMSYNC (ie a scan tool like the scangaygeII or AutoEnginuity)?
Also, you need to see what the ICP and IPR duty cycle readings are when cranking.

 

I think your right on the sensors Bismic. I unfortunately do not have one of "them there fancy scan tools", I'm just using my HF code reader. It does provide some live data but it's pretty limited. When I bought it my intended purpose was to read and clear codes. This is why I was begining to think I may be better off to have someone with the proper tool do the job. I could spend massive hours trying to troubleshoot something that could be done in minutes with the right tool. It hurts me to say that because everything that has gone wrong with my truck I fixed myself.

I did notice you did that for me, thank you. I plan to still test it just to rule it out. I did not check the ficm relay and fuse. Could you point me in the right direction for that? Reps coming your way and thank you again.

I've had to take a breather for the night. My wife isn't real happy with me since we had plans for this weekend and instead I worked on my truck the whole time. She needs a break from the crazy kiddos so I'm going to do that so she can go shopping. Nothing puts the wife in a good mood like shopping.

My charger says it's just about done with my batteries so they should have a full charge tomorrow when I start again. I will investigate how to check my IPR and ICP readings and get back with all of this information for everyone.

I gotta say how impressed I am with you, my fellow FTE members. Your knowledge and willingness to share that information are unparalleled. Thank you all again.

 

Well, I've been thinking about it and I'm just going to go buy a SG2 tomorrow. I plan on driving my truck for a long time so this will be an essential tool.

Are there any specifc pieces of information that would be helpful in trying to diagnose my problem? I'll get it hooked up and post that info tomorrow evening.

Thanks.

 

I am not exactly sure if your relay is in the same spot on a 2004, someone will have to chime in on that. Or if you have the owners manual, it will show it in there. I know on my 2005 it is under the hood, driver's side #304. The fuse is a 10amp. To check, pull the X3 FICM with KOEO check voltage to pins 4,8,23,24,25 and 27

See the links for the pin #'s

https://www.box.com/s/b4b23d68c5979df9d015

https://www.box.com/s/b42f0bcb8266b478ccc2

As for the SGII Blade has one so he would be the best one to help you program certain PID's. See if you are getting injector pulse width while cranking. If that is 0, chances are you don't have sync.

 

Got him covereed