rough running turned into no start
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: North Ft Worth
rough running turned into no start
Haven't had any issues for awhile but I need some help on this one.
2000 F-350, Auto, 4x4, 250K miles. I drive the truck daily run 100% bio (from a refinery not home brewed) for over 15K miles no problems.
3 days ago ran low on fuel less than ¼ tank so I used reg diesel it has about 7-8 gal of reg diesel in it now.
Yester day while driving, the truck started to run rough like missing on a cylinder. It would idle rough, if you rev the motor it felt like it was not firing on all 8, had white smoke from tail pipe, during short drive home with engine over 2k rpms engine smoothed out. The rough idle, white smoke and misfiring cylinder were intermittent yesterday about 15 min of driving time. No “check engine light” either.
Here are some things I checked today prior to starting the truck at all.
· After key on to prime fuel bowl I had strong release of fuel from fuel bowl drain tube
· Replaced fuel filter
· Replaced the air filter
· Did the .50 cent mod, the harness was attached firmly prior to mod
· Checked turbo wheel felt good no binding or movement in or out on shaft
· Found bare wire in big harness that lays on driver side valve cover, taped the bare wire
· Hit the key, truck started normal no smoke idled smooth figured the bare wire may have went to one of the injectors and I fixed it…NOPE
Truck idled smooth for about a minute or so. I took the oil filler cap off and placed it over the tube, it just vibrated and slide around no apparent suction. I revved the engine and it started to blow white smoke, run rough and started dropping cylinders till it died
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Now I have a no start issue: When I crank the engine the tac bounces slightly, the WTS light comes on, I have very little white smoke at the tail pipe, the oil gauge starts to read PSI, I have at least 10.6 volts at the batteries during cranking (remember this thing just started and idled fine a minute ago)
Plenty oil in the motor changed it about 1500 miles ago, disconnected the ICP and tried to start no go on that, The CPS was changed a couple years ago at the dealer.
I’m out of ideas please help…been searching the site all day and working on the truck at the same time.
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<O></O>
2000 F-350, Auto, 4x4, 250K miles. I drive the truck daily run 100% bio (from a refinery not home brewed) for over 15K miles no problems.
3 days ago ran low on fuel less than ¼ tank so I used reg diesel it has about 7-8 gal of reg diesel in it now.
Yester day while driving, the truck started to run rough like missing on a cylinder. It would idle rough, if you rev the motor it felt like it was not firing on all 8, had white smoke from tail pipe, during short drive home with engine over 2k rpms engine smoothed out. The rough idle, white smoke and misfiring cylinder were intermittent yesterday about 15 min of driving time. No “check engine light” either.
Here are some things I checked today prior to starting the truck at all.
· After key on to prime fuel bowl I had strong release of fuel from fuel bowl drain tube
· Replaced fuel filter
· Replaced the air filter
· Did the .50 cent mod, the harness was attached firmly prior to mod
· Checked turbo wheel felt good no binding or movement in or out on shaft
· Found bare wire in big harness that lays on driver side valve cover, taped the bare wire
· Hit the key, truck started normal no smoke idled smooth figured the bare wire may have went to one of the injectors and I fixed it…NOPE
Truck idled smooth for about a minute or so. I took the oil filler cap off and placed it over the tube, it just vibrated and slide around no apparent suction. I revved the engine and it started to blow white smoke, run rough and started dropping cylinders till it died
ffice
ffice" /><O></O>Now I have a no start issue: When I crank the engine the tac bounces slightly, the WTS light comes on, I have very little white smoke at the tail pipe, the oil gauge starts to read PSI, I have at least 10.6 volts at the batteries during cranking (remember this thing just started and idled fine a minute ago)
Plenty oil in the motor changed it about 1500 miles ago, disconnected the ICP and tried to start no go on that, The CPS was changed a couple years ago at the dealer.
I’m out of ideas please help…been searching the site all day and working on the truck at the same time.
<O
></O><O
></O>
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 45
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From: North Ft Worth
I can hear the external pump on the frame run so I'm guessing the lift pump in the tank may have quite. Is there a way to test it? Also checked the HPOP level and it was good, oil looked fresh not black and old.
3 years ago I removed a hand full of sand, 1 shotgun shell and about 10 roofing nails from the tank but I don't recall replacing the pump. It was still working. PO must of had some enemies!
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: North Ft Worth
Daaah....been messing with too many dodges lately. Gonna drop the tank for a look see. Got less than 10 gal in it best time to do it right? thnx for the help on a sunday.
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Freshman User
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From: North Ft Worth
I dropped the tank and found small metal shavings and more sand. I'm betting the pump got weak although it still buzzed with the key on. Is there an easy way to test the pump for proper PSI and what should it be during cranking?
The shavings may have come from a new transfer pump I have been using for the last months.
The shavings may have come from a new transfer pump I have been using for the last months.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
There are 2 cylinder shaped screens inside the mixing chamber (white plastic thing on the fuel pickup inside the tank). Be sure you clean those screens out or remove them and install a filter between the tank and the pump so you don't have to drop the tank again. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
There are 2 ports on the back side of the fuel bowl. You can plumb a gauge into one of those to check fuel pressure. You don't need to crank. The fuel pump is electric and stays on for 20 seconds if the engine is not started. You can check pressure by cycling the key and watching it for those 20 seconds. Just be sure to disconnect your GPR while you cycle the key that much so you don't drain the batteries with the glow plugs.
There are 2 ports on the back side of the fuel bowl. You can plumb a gauge into one of those to check fuel pressure. You don't need to crank. The fuel pump is electric and stays on for 20 seconds if the engine is not started. You can check pressure by cycling the key and watching it for those 20 seconds. Just be sure to disconnect your GPR while you cycle the key that much so you don't drain the batteries with the glow plugs.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 45
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From: North Ft Worth
There are 2 cylinder shaped screens inside the mixing chamber (white plastic thing on the fuel pickup inside the tank). Be sure you clean those screens out or remove them and install a filter between the tank and the pump so you don't have to drop the tank again. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
There are 2 ports on the back side of the fuel bowl. You can plumb a gauge into one of those to check fuel pressure. You don't need to crank. The fuel pump is electric and stays on for 20 seconds if the engine is not started. You can check pressure by cycling the key and watching it for those 20 seconds. Just be sure to disconnect your GPR while you cycle the key that much so you don't drain the batteries with the glow plugs.
There are 2 ports on the back side of the fuel bowl. You can plumb a gauge into one of those to check fuel pressure. You don't need to crank. The fuel pump is electric and stays on for 20 seconds if the engine is not started. You can check pressure by cycling the key and watching it for those 20 seconds. Just be sure to disconnect your GPR while you cycle the key that much so you don't drain the batteries with the glow plugs.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: North Ft Worth
On the road again! Thank you Chris for staying with me on this one. I cleaned the tank of every grain of sand, removed the screens in the mixing chamber and cleaned them. The were pretty bad, the whole assembly had sand grit in it. Put a new pump on. I didn't check fuel pressure figured a new pump was in order anyway with all the crap that went thru the fuel system.
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