Lol why I haven't done it yet.

 

Here is an example of why I won't recommend bypassing that device that looks like a circuit breaker:

‪Windsor truck fire‬‏ - YouTube

You might remove it and look for some numbers or telltale identification on it. Trace the wires, too.

 

OK thanks for that one.

 

Alright bud THIS is what your stuff should look like. Either the gold colored box or the silver one should be what is causing your issue. If i remember correctly, the goldish colored one can be affected by the heat of the manifolds and engine can can damage some of the connections inside. If you haven't tried replacing it you might want to they are pretty inexpensive, and if it doesn't work then you have a new regulator.
Also don't mind the giant red wire, that is for my sub


The gold box/Voltage regulator i was talking about

Ignition box, this shouldn't cause an issue with it not running when warm BUT don't rule it out just yet.


The only thing i can think of that that little circuit breaker thing could be for is the little capacitor(i think) under the regulator shown here.



The other thing i just thought of is check your coil wires and make sure they aren't shorting or melting.

Thats about all i got so good luck.

 

The little capacitor thing is the condenser I was talking about earlier, it removes alternator whine from the radio.

I can't recommend throwing parts at it without first doing some sort of diagnosis.

OP: You say it doesn't start when hot until you dick around with that device... it won't start, what DOES it do when you turn the key to START? Does the starter motor turn? Do you have spark & fuel?

Still need to find where those wires go (the ones attached to that device).

 

Engine turns just don't fire when I turn the key only when I let go then it want to fire. I've changed every box shown above. Thanks again.

 

That sort of leads me to think of battery connections or the coil...

EDIT: also the reason i said just to replace the regulator box is cause they are less than $20 and if you really need the cash then if the new one does nothing take it back... I know the theory of not throwing parts at it and i have often done this, i was actually in the same situation OP mentioned, and i spend the money on a new dizzy, all the starting equipment and spent a lot of money... Mine turned out to be the previous owners foul up by cutting the 2 coil wires and not re-splicing them correctly. They would wiggle a tiny bit an BAM no connection means no start. It is worth looking at at least.

 

Do you have one of these in your distributor?

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX204

If so, look at the diagram that ctubutis posted. With the engine cold, unplug the connector outside of the distributor. Using a DVM, measure the resistance of the pickup coil from orange to purple. Record the value.

The next time the engine is hot, and won't restart, open the hood and quickly unplug it again, and measure the resistance. It will cool quicker with the hood open, so you may have to move fast. What you are looking for is to see if the pickup coil has gone open. This is a failure mode on these pickups when they are old. When the distributor cools off, the pickup coil's internal break often reconnects, allowing the engine to be started again.

They can open up under heat while the engine is running, but the internal wire break still allows the pickup coil to function while the engine is running, because while running, the signal generated is large. But at cranking speed when starting, the signal is very low, and the break will prevent the ignition module from seeing the pulses, therefore, it won't fire the ignition coil.

A clue can be the "cranking but no start, but fires when the key is turned back". The DuraSpark ignition system, if that is what you have, fires the ignition coil ONE TIME when turning the key back, even if the distributor pickup coil is open.

A few minutes with a DVM on Ohms will tell whether this is your problem or not.

 

^^^^ What Torky2 says.

You need a multimeter to do some tests. If you don't have one, purchase one. Walmart & Harbor Freight have 'em for $5 - $20. Example:

Walmart.com: Digital Multimeter - 10709: Automotive

The Duraspark system is pretty simple... the distributor pickup sensor instructs the module to fire the coil at the right times.

Another characteristic is, the coil receives full battery voltage in START but gets a reduced voltage in RUN. Look at that diagram I posted to see how it does that (with the resistor wire) and do some tests with your multimeter to see what voltages you have where and when.

For example, ground the black test lead, you should have battery voltage on both the I & S terminals of the starter solenoid as well as on the coil + as well as the module's white wire with the key in START.

While in RUN, the coil's + should have ~6-9V and the module's red wire should have battery voltage.

A test light is also useful in electrical diagnosis:




Ground the alligator clip, probe the coil's _ lead, the light should blink with the key in START.

And, again - figure out to where those wires go on that circuit-breaker-looking thing, and you can test for voltage on both sides to see if it's making or breaking the circuit at any given time.