Look in your Haynes manul for test instructions.

 

Unfortunately I don't have one. We sell one at work but it covers 93-08. I would've bought it if it wasn't so broad and was a lil more specific to rangers closer to 94.

 

I do have a multimeter just not sure how to go about testing that particular device.

 

If the MAF sensor isn't working, you should have a trouble code set for it.

Did you clean it with a non residual cleaner formulated just for cleaning MAF sensors, like CRC or Valvolene MAF spray cleaner & did you let it cool before cleaning, didn't touch the wire sensor & kept it squeeky clean on installation???

 

Yep used the crc MAF cleaner

 

Looked in the Haynes manual at work and it didn't have any usefull info but I did print some info off the computer at work so I'm gonna check the pigtail tomorrow

 

Could this be caused by the idle air control valve?

 

A rough, low idle rpm, can be caused by an acting out IAC, but it won't likely cause a power bog at throttle up.

A throttle up power bog can be caused by a number of things causing the air/fuel ratio to go lean, when we open the throttle. So things like a dirty/faulty MAF sensor PID to the computer, TPS sensor, low fuel pressure, low fuel delivery rate, clogged air filter or air tube, messed up PID from the IAT sensor, ect, ect & if any of the sensors are out of range, the computer can usually sense it & set a trouble code.

Did you ever determine what was going on with the MAF sensor????

Try to stay calm & focused on your trouble shoot & work the trouble code clues the computer has provided, from the lowest code number, up. It seems your so frustrated that your mind is like the confused cowboy, who jumped on his horse & rode off in all directions!!!!

 

The trouble codes just don't seem to be givin me any clues. Maybe I was just over thinking but I figured maybe if the iac was sticking that it was letting too much air past the throttle body when I open the throttle. I tested the MAF pigtail and it appears to be functioning properly.

 

OK, so lets go back to post one, where you said that the spark plugs were black, Really black!!!! This suggests an over fueling problem, causing the air/fuel ratio to be Way over rich. So did you find out what was going on with that???? Are the new Autolite plugs carboned fouled???

 

They were very black when I pulled em out but very dry and the truck doesn't smell like fuel at all and neither does the exhaust.

 

OK, if the new plugs are carbon fouled also, it indicates an over fueling problem. Seeing as how, for some reason the computer isn't detecting this condition & setting fuel trim codes, you need to come by & hook up a scantool that'll hook up to your under hood OBD-1 DLC & display sensor PID's to the computer, so you can monitor short & long term fuel trim, O2, MAF, TPS, IAT sensor output PID's to the computer, such that you can begin to see what the sensors are telling the computer & what its telling its actuators to do with that input, like what the fuel injectors, vapor recovery purge valve, EGR valve, ect are doing with fuel trim.
A scantool like an Actron CP9145 with the proper DLC hook up cable can do this testing on OBd-1 systems.

Right now you seem to be having problems staying focused on one thing long enough to come to a conclusion on anything, except the engine is bogging when you open the throttle & the bog problem seems to be intermittent & the new spark plugs are carbon fouled.

All that & we haven't even begun to tackel the tranny codes you have. Of course if the tranny shifting is messed up & its in the wrong gear at the wrong time, it would bog the engine, sorta like trying to take off in high gear in a straight drive, But that wouldn't cause the spark plugs to be carbon fouled!!!! So it seems you have more than one problem, some of which you have trouble codes for, others you seem to not have trouble codes for, as the cause may not be directly monitored by a computer sensor, so the computer doesn't know the problem exists!!!! OBD-1 does have its limitations, its better than nothing, but not as comprehensive as OBD-2 & later diagnositc systems. So we need as many diagnostic input clues as we can come by.

Edit: I'll ask again, did the bog problem come about After you reworked the intake air plumbing????

 

Nope it was doing it before hand. I even tried putting it back to stock and it still did it.

 

OK. thats good feedback, so was the intake air tube leak before/ahead of, or after/past the MAF sensor????
When you cleaned the MAF sensor, you said you used CRC MAF spray which was a good idea, But did you clean it in place, or remove it for cleaning, so you could get at all sides????

 

The factory intake couplers were after the MAF and were extremely soft and cracked. I removed it to clean it.