I'm gonna take it to a local shop tomorrow and have them take a look at it and see what they think.

 

Will be interesting to hear what they find.

 

Yeah hopefully nothing too serious. I'm gonna check my ground connections first cuz someone said it may be a bad ground and I'm gonna check for loose or corroded wires under the fuse box cuz I replaced the fuel pump relay and it's still showing a code for it. Same with the purge valve solenoid.

 

If you haven't done it, good idea to check the battery cables & their connections. I'd do under load voltage drop tests on those cable connections & an under load battery state of charge test also, so you know that the computer & its sensors are being fed their rated voltage to properly operate.
The Battery Tutorial thread link atop this forum has instructions for those tests with your multimeter.

 

Ok so the guy I talk to on the phone yesterday is apparently the new guy at the shop cuz they only work on work trucks and commercial vehicles on Saturday. Long story short a made a stupid human error. I was reading the first code that I was getting as a 59 thinking the first flash was a marker for the startin point for the codes.... Nope it was a 159 meaning "MAF sensor is/was out of range" (face+palm) however that code is no longer showing up and the truck is running much better. I did reclean the MAF the other day and today a checked and cleaned all the grounds that I could find and get to. Now gotta work on the Trans codes. I'll probably go ahead and buy a new filter and fluid along with a Lucas additive just cuz who knows how long it's been if ever been changed so maybe that'll do the trick?

 

Oh I also pulled of the throttle body and cleaned it a lil better and put on a new gasket as well as cleaned the iac and made a new gasket for it too.

 

Mercon V doesn't need any help, but if your going to pour in some after market additive, maybe consider a detergent/dispersant one that can get after deposits without messing with seals, gaskets, plastic, rubber, or metal parts, like Seafoam Trans Tune. It doesn't have any seal swell additives, just Pale Oil, Napatha, IPO & some Red dye.

If you think, or know the tranny is sludged or varnished up, maybe consider adding an inline filter, like a Magnefine, to the tranny return line at the cooler, to catch any thing the detergents dissolve, so they don't get back into the valve body to cause more mischief.

I've used Trans Tune on both my 94 Taurus & 99 Ranger to clear hanging up & down shifts & stop off center power steering shudder, or momentary loss of boost & also got a quieter running P/S pump after a system full fluid pumpout after the Trans Tune did its thing.
Also did a pan drop & full tranny fluid pump out, after the Trans Tune cleared the tranny hanging up & down shifts.

Of course if your problem is electrical, with wiring, electrical connector contact, solenoid windings, ect, then an aftermarket detergent product won't likely make much difference, maybe smooth shifts out some.

More thoughts for pondering, keep us posted on how it goes.

 

Trans tune your supposed to put in for awhile just before a fluid change right?

 

Well depends on what your trying to do. If your trying to clean up some deposits that are mucking things up in the valve body, torque converter, ect, then it would be wise to add the Trans Tune before a fluid change, so the deposits come out with the old fluid & filter.

If the fluid has just been changed & we know our tranny doesn't have loads of deposits in the pan & elsewhere, but are having problems that we think might be deposit related, then add half a can, (don't overfill), drive it, keeping a check on the fluids condition & see if we get positive results & if so & the fluid still looks clear, leave the Trans Tune in there, it won't hurt anything. The lighter components will evaporate leaving the pale oil, dye & any light deposits dissolved can be removed by the tranny or inline Magnefine filter.

If your unsure of how clean the tranny is inside, but have new fluid in there, add the Magnefine inline filter when you add the Trans Tune for additional filtering & watch the fluids condition. If the fluid doesn't turn dark from the tranny fluid & Trans Tune detergents cleaning things up, leave the Trans Tune & Magnefine in place until its service time again, like 20-30K miles.

If the shifting problems clear up but the fluid is really dark, do a pan drop, filter change, full fluid pumpout as outlined at the bottom of the Tech Info page, using the other half can of Trans Tune & new fluid, then add the Magnefine inline filter with the new fluid & pan filter. That way you'll have double filtration to catch any additional crud that the new fluids detergents cut loose over time as you drive.

More thoughts for consideration.

 

An inline power steering filter will work for that right? Also how do I know which line is the return line?

 

The Magnefine is for P/S & Tranny applications, just choose one with the right barb/nipple size for the hose its to be fitted into.
From our Tech Info thread, look through these postings for how too info.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html

Edit: NAPA has Trans Tune on sale this month for $6 & change.

 

Ok so this morning I put in the Trans tune then drove to get her reinspected. Drive fine on the way there then on the way back she was lacking power and shifting weird then started bogging again. When I got home the only code it was throwing was the MAF code so I cleaned it again. If that doesn't fix the issue I'm going to swap the MAF.

 

Remove the battery B- cable & then remove the MAF sensor. Wait for it to cool, then clean it with your CRC MAF spray from both sides & let it air dry in a clean dust free spot, then reinstall, being careful not to get it dirty. Then do the cold & warm idle relearn proceedure, before driving it again.

 

Ok I'll give that a try. On a side note if this is as warm as my ranger gets is it pretty safe to say that I need a new thermostat?

 

Well maybe, if the gauge temp sender is telling the truth.
Disconnect the single wire gauge temp senders electrical connector & check its resistance with your multimeter when the engine is cold & warm & post the resistance values.