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Yes I did disconnect the batter but it's possible that it was for long enough, not familiar with the relearn procedure, after the disconnect and yes unfortunately it's an auto.
If you had the battery disconnected while doing the repairs, or a door was open, under hood, or cabin light on, ect, that electrical load will wipe the KAM fast. Normally with no electrical loads on, it'll take maybe 15 min to wipe the KAM.
OK, so you have an auto tranny, so you might have more than one problem causing the bogging at throttle up. Have you been having tranny shifting problems???
It was shifting a lil funny the other day but I just figured it was because of the lack of power and the fact that I kept having to put the pedal all the way to the floor. Let me disconnect the battery again, do the relearn precess and retest the fuel pressure and I'll let ya know what I find. Thanks for all the help!
Yes I did disconnect the batter but it's possible that it was for long enough, not familiar with the relearn procedure, after the disconnect and yes unfortunately it's an auto.
OK, so did you do the code scan Before, or After the battery disconnect/KAM wipe?????
If you scanned for trouble codes After the battery disconnect, that also wiped any stored codes in KAM, so you'll need to drive it some & see if any codes reset & if they do the CEL will turn on. Then scan it again & post All code Numbers found.
The cold & warm idle relearn may help with any idle, or off throttle operation & wiping the corrupt fuel trim tables so the computer can begin to rebuild new ones after the repair, might help with the bog problem.
If the tranny is still having shift problems, maybe it'll set some more codes that'll help with that diagnosis.
Ok so disconnected the B- for about 20 mins then went through the relearn process and the checked fuel pressure again. The I took her for a short test drive. She seemed to run much better but then she did the same thing after I installed the FPR so I guess we'll see. Now the fuel pressure was still right at 30psi and when I give it a rev it pops up to 40. Also it does idle a lil rough sometimes then it'll be fine again. Which I suppose could be because the plugs that are in it are probably black from when she was bogging bad. The 59 code is still showing up so maybe instead of a fuel pump I should buy a Trans filter and some fluid? And is 30 psi too low? Thanks again joe
Ok so disconnected the B- for about 20 mins then went through the relearn process and the checked fuel pressure again. The I took her for a short test drive. She seemed to run much better but then she did the same thing after I installed the FPR so I guess we'll see. Now the fuel pressure was still right at 30psi and when I give it a rev it pops up to 40. Also it does idle a lil rough sometimes then it'll be fine again. Which I suppose could be because the plugs that are in it are probably black from when she was bogging bad. The 59 code is still showing up so maybe instead of a fuel pump I should buy a Trans filter and some fluid? And is 30 psi too low? Thanks again joe
On the fuel pressure test, review post #6. Was this last reading with it jumping to 40 psi when you rev the engine, with the new FPR????
If you suspect the plugs are fouled, pick one thats easy to get at, remove & inspect/clean it/them & see how the bog & rough idle goes.
Also review post #10 for other possibilities, like a clogged air filter, or air intake tube to the air box. Critters like to build nests in there, so make sure its clear all the way from the air box to the wheel well.
Yeah that was with the new fpr. There was actually a crack in the stock air tube so I had to make a new intake so that's definitely not clogged. Hadn't really thought about trying her with OD off.
Well I see you've modified & done away with the factory cold air intake. Where did you locate the IAT sensor???? That rig you have on there now is sucking in plenty of Hot under hood air, not a good thing for a smooth running engine!!!!
What other mods have you done that we don't know about?????
Didnt really have a choice as it was sucking in in metered air. Was the IAT on the actual air box? The only thing I actually removed was the hose an mechanism that lets hot air off the exhaust mani into the intake. That's the only "mod". So I rescanned the codes after taking her for a quick drive and here's what I got. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i5...f/197a5108.mp4
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