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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:11 AM
  #1  
Travis Martin's Avatar
Travis Martin
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Paint dilemma

My 95' needs some paint pretty badly. There is no body damage or rust, but where the paint is cracked there is a little bit of surface rust. I have other work and mods (engine, level, wheels/tires) I want to do before throwing 3k-5k down on a paint job. What are some alternatives to make the truck look a little better and stop the rust until I spring for a full blown paint job? What about doing the whole thing in bedliner? How expensive/easy it it to remove later when I do want to get it professionally done? Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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critterf1
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I haven't seen a paint shop that will even touch it after you do that.
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 12:22 PM
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From: Middleburg FL
Originally Posted by Travis Martin
My 95' needs some paint pretty badly. There is no body damage or rust, but where the paint is cracked there is a little bit of surface rust. I have other work and mods (engine, level, wheels/tires) I want to do before throwing 3k-5k down on a paint job. What are some alternatives to make the truck look a little better and stop the rust until I spring for a full blown paint job? What about doing the whole thing in bedliner? How expensive/easy it it to remove later when I do want to get it professionally done? Any suggestions? Thanks!
Time with some sanding and spray cans to prevent further rust. Other choice is to buy/ rent the tools and paint it yourself. My brother helped and we painted my 78 bronco in two tone for @$400 in his garage with borrowed tools. It looks good to about 10 feet. It will look great once I get the final wet sanding and buffing done. It was a wonderful adventure and I learned a lot.
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 12:35 PM
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If you do use spray cans and eventually want to have it professionally painted just be aware the shop may want to sand all that off and it'll cost extra labor time. I spray painted and sanded my 78 Bronco and it looked pretty good.
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #5  
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Add to what Brett said that if you go rattle can very few primers are actually sealers.
If it is not a sealer/primer it WILL rust again and probably worse than it is now.
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 01:07 PM
  #6  
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From: Acworth, GA
I would never use any rattle-can primer on a quality build of any type, unless you planned on stripping it back down to bare metal before spraying on an epoxy primer. I would only use a 2-part epoxy primer on any bare metal, then do the filler work. Once you have all of the filler and body work completed, you could spray a build primer on and do all of your sanding. Once that is done, then I would spray another coat of epoxy primer over everything to seal it. If you want to do a good, quality paint job, and you want it to last a good long time, the don't skimp on the prep work. The paint will only hold up as long as everything underneath it. Good luck with your project.

P.S. Here is a forum that I belong to, they are a full of quality knowledge (much like this site). SPI User Forums
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 08:01 PM
  #7  
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Bubba Jones
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From: Phoenix, AZ
I don't mean to hijack the thread but,

I'm getting ready to try and paint my hood and top (cab only not back) myself since the paint is fading pretty badly now. I have an air compressor I can borrow that will work well for spraying paint, but I need to get the paint gun(s) still and paint/clear coat.

I read that I can just sand part of my remaining paint down and spray the new paint on top (a few coats), then spray down the clear coat (a few coats) and that should work well.

Would this be a good idea or should I sand it all the way down and add a primer? There are a few very small dents I may put bondo on but don't know if I should add primer or not. The reason why I don't want to do this is because I want to only get away with buying one paint gun with around a 1.4mm tip so I can use it for both the base coats and clear coats. This way I may be able to get away painting those parts for only around $200-300.
 
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