When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have some rust, I want to clean it up, prime it and Paint it for now. I care less about the patches it may leave in the other paint from not matching. I just do not want to have holes in my quarter panels.
I also need to know the best way to straighten up a dent enough to mount in the brake light. I do not wish this to look show room style as far as dents go, but I do want to keep good paint on it so it does not rust out!
-What materials to I need to clean up the metal with after sanding it clean?
-What do I do between layers of primer and paint?
-How many layers of primer/paint should I use?
I did read some posts on using the can sprays, and how the professional primers and paints do not get along. Does this mean when I decide to take this and get it painted they have to remove all of the patches I painted? I just do not want this to rust out. All I want is it to look halfway Decent. I use this as my daily driver and I go wheeling with it frequently so some minor body damage is acceptable!
The best way to go if you must use a can is to sand the area then use Acetone to clean and then a rust converter like Jascos from Home Depot or simular product, then apply some primer 2 coats should be fine. After it's completly dried, sand any runs/defects clean with acetone and apply a few coats of paint. I'd say at least 3 coats and thick enough to have some shine to it don't just goast coat it.
Once you decide to have a pro paint applied, it's best to strip off all the can paint and primer first, you don't have to strip the whole truck, just the can stuff.
If properly applied to a clean surface, I'd say you can get by for a few years. The important thing is that you get a full protective coating. This mean bringing it to the point where it almost runs or sags but not quite. Some like to goast coat some then go with a heaiver coat so that it's thick enough to repeal water. Usually you can tell by the shine, the best is where it looks wet after it's fully dry.
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="3" FACE="Veranda"]
I want to point out that spray can paint has come a long way. I do not dispute the superiority of a proper paint system applied with a gun, but it is possible to get a so-called "krylon paint job" to look good. Eastwood's paint for instance comes out of a can very well and the results can be quite professional in a skilled hand. Prep is still almost everything, but you should be able to get good results with one of the better brands.
Right now I am in the process of putting a coat of paint on my 86 f150 4x4 with my home sprayer and a galon of Tremclad. It isn't going to have anywhere near the shine of a professional job but it lasts. I took about 6 cans of spray paint 2 years ago, sanded the truck down and applied the paint and no rust came through so it does work, I suggest about 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint and it should be good for quite a while.
Ok I know this is a Ford Board but I am a former owner of a 66 Chevelle.. I re-painted all the interior in that thing. (and for those who may not know, its all metal dash and doors) I prepped it and painted with paint cans and it came out better than the shop could have done it. When I had the outside painted they painted over some of my work.. You wann talk pissed... Anyway, thats besides the point. I agree good paint in a spray can can llok just as good as a professinal job if done right.. I will also state I have always done my painting in stages.. Prepare, prime, first coat, second coat, then 2 coats of clear coat to give it a really bright shine.
Hi everyone. I have a few questions about this subject to. I am restoring my 83 F150. It was orginally Candy Apple Red, I have alot of rust to take care of and I would like to restore it back to ORGINAL but I really like the dark meticalic colors like grey and purple. The interior is all brand new looking cept for the door sills where the sun faded it. Heres my concerns. How had is it and money wise to redo the interior? OR if I do the red again, do you think it would be hard to find the same red color -headliner, carpet... and for the sills??? I dont want 8 reds in there so I was thinking a black interior. I also dont have much money to put into the exterior paint job after replacing the engine and panels---- for a professional paint job, and I have never done this before so using a sprayer is kinda scary, what are some good middle range priced can paint? Or do you think its better to wait until I have money to get it done professional?? Thnkas in advance everyone.. sorry this is long.
It sounds like you need to wait for a pro. The problem with going to a pro is that the good ones want all your money and the fair ones don't go very good prep work. I have a 15 year old paint job sitting outside that is still holding strong that I did myself (1st time), then I have a 'pro' paint job that cost me $550 and it's flaking off in several spots and never shined that well. Not to mention they got a different color of overspray on the inside.
Learning how to spray is fun and you can do some good work if you put in a good effort. the upside is that you can spend a few extra hours preping and end up with a much better job. the downside is that cost of the equipment and time to learn.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.