Maaco...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 5
From: Southern California
Maaco...
Ok so the truck i bought recently has had a 2nd paint job in the last ten years. It was taken down to mexico where they just painted over the old paint.... Now there is little rust bubbles under the paint in multiple spots and there is alot of cracking. I need to get the paint all stripped and then the rust needs to be taken care of. Then it needs primer.
Has anyone had any experience stripping the paint off their car? Was wondering how good of a job Maaco does at just stripping, removing minor rust, and then priming? I have another high quality paint guy waiting....
I need all this done soon
Has anyone had any experience stripping the paint off their car? Was wondering how good of a job Maaco does at just stripping, removing minor rust, and then priming? I have another high quality paint guy waiting....
I need all this done soon
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
That's ALOT of work. There's nothing wrong with that but are ya willing to pay a shop $90 an hour to do something you can do?
Maaco, FWIW, can shoot a decent paint job if, and only if, the preparation is done with a high degree of attention. Prep is 70 percent, materials is 15 percent, and paint technique is another 15 percent towards the quality. It is not necessary to take the paint down to bare metal. The original paint can provide a decent base so long as it is properly sealed. On the cheap? Buy a DeWalt random orbital sander, a long board, a good supply of sandpaper and dive in.
SoCal has really mild weather... I remember dirtbiking in 80-degree weather out in Ocatillo Wells.... the day after Xmas!!! i looked at the weather report where I live and it was cold, rainy, and dreary. Lucky you.
I could write a long dissertation on bodywork and paint but it is better if you read up on it. Hot Rod comes out with a paint n body issue every year and there's tons of info on the web. Mouse over to the major magazine's websites and do a search.
I taught myself how to weld. That is where you can save TONS of dough on rust repair... and lil fab projects on the side... like a light bar!!
Maaco, FWIW, can shoot a decent paint job if, and only if, the preparation is done with a high degree of attention. Prep is 70 percent, materials is 15 percent, and paint technique is another 15 percent towards the quality. It is not necessary to take the paint down to bare metal. The original paint can provide a decent base so long as it is properly sealed. On the cheap? Buy a DeWalt random orbital sander, a long board, a good supply of sandpaper and dive in.
SoCal has really mild weather... I remember dirtbiking in 80-degree weather out in Ocatillo Wells.... the day after Xmas!!! i looked at the weather report where I live and it was cold, rainy, and dreary. Lucky you.
I could write a long dissertation on bodywork and paint but it is better if you read up on it. Hot Rod comes out with a paint n body issue every year and there's tons of info on the web. Mouse over to the major magazine's websites and do a search.
I taught myself how to weld. That is where you can save TONS of dough on rust repair... and lil fab projects on the side... like a light bar!!
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 5
From: Southern California
I taught myself how to weld. That is where you can save TONS of dough on rust repair... and lil fab projects on the side... like a light bar!![/quote]
None of my rust requires welding. Just surface bubbles.... I thought about having a guy come soda blast it (exterior and door jams) and then attempt to remove the rust and prime it myself.... how do you remove rust bubbles so they dont come back again?
None of my rust requires welding. Just surface bubbles.... I thought about having a guy come soda blast it (exterior and door jams) and then attempt to remove the rust and prime it myself.... how do you remove rust bubbles so they dont come back again?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 5
From: Southern California
Whats a good quality primer? And do i use a spray gun that connects to a compressor?
like this
http://image.automotive.com/f/parts/...+paint_gun.jpg
So if i had the truck stripped down to the bare metal; what would i need to prime it for paint?
Ive heard about primer surfacer or something. Could someone list the materials and tools i need to get it ready for paint? (minor rust removal 2)
like this
http://image.automotive.com/f/parts/...+paint_gun.jpg
So if i had the truck stripped down to the bare metal; what would i need to prime it for paint?
Ive heard about primer surfacer or something. Could someone list the materials and tools i need to get it ready for paint? (minor rust removal 2)
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 341
Likes: 1
From: Lingle, Wyoming
FWIW, I took a really rough '64 clear down to metal in about 3 days with a $25 harbor freight DA sander, $50 in sanding discs, a 3/8" drill, and a couple of wire wheel cups. Depending on your paint guy, if he knows body work, he'll want to help you get the best finish possible, and can help with any filler needs. My buddy banned me from the filler and finishing (I'm a bit heavy handed) so I never got to play with that stuff. But stripping it down is easy, fast and fun! Depending on how deep the rust goes, sometimes just sanding removes the issue, or there are any number of products available. and once you're done there, Maaco and or earl scheib do ok. I've used both over the years, and both turned out ok, IF YOU do all the prep.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 5
From: Southern California
Hmmm.
How does maaco remove paint BTW?
Ok so after i have the truck down to the bear metal, what tools do i need to prime it for paint and remove the few dents?
How does maaco remove paint BTW?
Ok so after i have the truck down to the bear metal, what tools do i need to prime it for paint and remove the few dents?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 5
From: Southern California
Ok so what im doing at this point is:
1) spot treat rust spots with mini sand blaster
2) Prime treated rust spots
3) have maaco strip all exterior paint and door jams
4) maaco fix minor dents
5) maaco prime all exterior and door jams
after i get it home i have to block the truck to remove these wavy lines left from a dr sander
then i prime it again (myself)
Finally....... hot rod paint shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1) spot treat rust spots with mini sand blaster
2) Prime treated rust spots
3) have maaco strip all exterior paint and door jams
4) maaco fix minor dents
5) maaco prime all exterior and door jams
after i get it home i have to block the truck to remove these wavy lines left from a dr sander
then i prime it again (myself)
Finally....... hot rod paint shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 3
i also would like to know if any one has had a good job done by them [maaco] as i want to get my bronco done just to make it look decent as this truck will see some off road i dont want to spend big $s on a paint job the fellow i used for my f350 s/c charged me 8000.00 for that job flawless but pricy
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 16
From: Ideeho
I have no experience with Maaco, but GOOD quality body and paint work is pricey. Most people do not understand why until they try doing some of it themselves. It is VEEEERRRYY labor intensive to do it right...................
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
From: Riverview, FL
I just sanded my truck the past 2 weeks. I only took the really bad areas down to the bare metal. Everything else I just roughed up and tried to blend the edges together. I used an 80 grit flap wheel for the rusty areas, then I used 150 grit to get everything rough and then I used 320 grit to blend everything together. I am using a DAsander and an orbital sander from Harbor freight and a 33gl compressor. My compressor was running almost the whole time I was sanding but it kept up. It is a lot of work to do thins but worth it in the end knowing you did it. I used this place to get my sandpaper, pretty cheap and gread customer sevice: ProSourceCenter, Distributor and Wholesaler, Kerdi Ditra AbrasivePro Source Center distributor Abrasives Power Tools, Flooring Materials Just search for 6" PSA, I think I paid $18 for a 100ct roll. Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
Don't forget to use etching primer on the bare metal spots before you put your main primer down!
Don't forget to use etching primer on the bare metal spots before you put your main primer down!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,157
Likes: 3
Sanding and stripping yourself may save you money. Problem is you will need more than a simple primer coat or two. The block sanding needed to get your body work back to flat after striping the old paint is going to take a long time. If this is not done it will look horrible.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
I had an 80 Ford Fairmont that I drove as my work car. I did the primer and sanded it down myself. There were a couple spots I should have spent more time on. I took it to Maaco in Dayton, Ohio and had it painted original color, blue metallic. They did a good job overall but all they did, as I could tell, was 'tape and spray'. They even did the pin stripe for me.
Right now I cannot afford a total restoration as I have no garage or second car. I am going to fix the rust myself and will probably paint it myself using good auto paint to last a few years.
Right now I cannot afford a total restoration as I have no garage or second car. I am going to fix the rust myself and will probably paint it myself using good auto paint to last a few years.