The performance lift option should include a new set of full rear springs whereas the lesser options would include add-a-leafs or blocks. This is the option I chose years ago simply because the old stock leaf springs in my 92 were in pretty bad shape

 

Gruesome, I looked at the shackle flip and If I drop in an added plate welded and bolted AND add some flat stock to the top welded in I know it would be strong enough BUT.... Built lots and LOTS of jeeps and the one sure thing about short cuts is they ultimately leave you hanging. There is a reason the right way cost more and is ALWAYS more of a pain in the but. That said never be afraid to reinvent the wheel...

Without we are all doomed to the same things we know now

and NOBODY wants to only know what we know now.

That said, had a BIG day in the junkyard. Mostly stuff for the 79 chevy 3/4 ton camper special I am building BUT did pick up two setd of warn hubs. The chevy will retain its Spicer lock outs. (they are WAY beefyer and a lot more metal inside them. But the axles are a lot bigger. 60 in front GM14 in back (YES with the 10.75 rear pinion (MONSTER rearend)
The hubs on the Broonco are automatic with three bolts. (The keeper ring is REALLY tuff to spot if you have never found it before) Put it on the grinder to give some lift room on the backside for the next time... Anyway what consist of the (Conversion Kit) I have the hubs but dont know what comes out and what should go back in.
Also I think (THINK) the transfer case is not fully disengaugung the 4x4. Hubs seem to be working ok but the driveshaft up front is clearly locked in to the front wheels. I can feel it driving, though there is a difference when I put it in 4x4. However the front drive shaft will not spin by hand in 4x2. Is this norm.

Thoughts??

PICS of it all coming soon. I know you like the pics...