Manual Locking Hubs stuck
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Manual Locking Hubs stuck
On my new to me '03 Excursion (I've owned it for 1.5 weeks now), I'm starting to get through the 1st level of issues (Wandering - fixed, Speedo/ABS issue - still working on that, changing the rear diff fluid this week, hopefully).
Now, I want to look into why the manually locking hubs won't turn. When I brought it up to the Previous Owner, who was about as mechanically inclined as my Golden Retreiver, he said "these are auto locking hubs. I never turned those things before".
They are frozen in the non-locked position, so I have to pray that I never need to actually manually lock them.
Has anyone ever had any luck at un-freezing stuck hubs? I've started the liberal application of PB Blaster process.
Now, I want to look into why the manually locking hubs won't turn. When I brought it up to the Previous Owner, who was about as mechanically inclined as my Golden Retreiver, he said "these are auto locking hubs. I never turned those things before".
They are frozen in the non-locked position, so I have to pray that I never need to actually manually lock them.
Has anyone ever had any luck at un-freezing stuck hubs? I've started the liberal application of PB Blaster process.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 0
From: Shelbyville, Indiana
On my new to me '03 Excursion (I've owned it for 1.5 weeks now), I'm starting to get through the 1st level of issues (Wandering - fixed, Speedo/ABS issue - still working on that, changing the rear diff fluid this week, hopefully).
Now, I want to look into why the manually locking hubs won't turn. When I brought it up to the Previous Owner, who was about as mechanically inclined as my Golden Retreiver, he said "these are auto locking hubs. I never turned those things before".
They are frozen in the non-locked position, so I have to pray that I never need to actually manually lock them.
Has anyone ever had any luck at un-freezing stuck hubs? I've started the liberal application of PB Blaster process.
Now, I want to look into why the manually locking hubs won't turn. When I brought it up to the Previous Owner, who was about as mechanically inclined as my Golden Retreiver, he said "these are auto locking hubs. I never turned those things before".
They are frozen in the non-locked position, so I have to pray that I never need to actually manually lock them.
Has anyone ever had any luck at un-freezing stuck hubs? I've started the liberal application of PB Blaster process.
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...38185752182712
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3185334
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1272163-help.html
They are ESOF hubs that are supposed to do both manual and auto locking...here's what mine look like today:
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Altoona, PA
they are really simple to take apart. There is a snap ring holding the outer hub housing on. If it is really stuck in there tap on it with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer ..(or thick rags and conventional hammer) but once that snap ring is out it should just pull out. After that there are more snap rings...
get all the hub and components out, clean, and re-pack with grease.
If you never took one apart just place the parts in an order as they come out to re-install at a later date. There are also tons of videos on this subject.
Good luck
If you feel the locking hub can not be salvaged there are few aftermarket and better products for a hub replacement. It might be a good idea to purchase some anyways since you will have it apart. Both Warn and Superwinch replacement hubs are good. Maybe some supporting vendor can come by on your post and sell you some.
Warn
Warn Industries - 4WD Standard Manual Hubs
Superwinch
http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/...ationChart.pdf
get all the hub and components out, clean, and re-pack with grease.
If you never took one apart just place the parts in an order as they come out to re-install at a later date. There are also tons of videos on this subject.
Good luck
If you feel the locking hub can not be salvaged there are few aftermarket and better products for a hub replacement. It might be a good idea to purchase some anyways since you will have it apart. Both Warn and Superwinch replacement hubs are good. Maybe some supporting vendor can come by on your post and sell you some.
Warn
Warn Industries - 4WD Standard Manual Hubs
Superwinch
http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/...ationChart.pdf
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 0
From: Shelbyville, Indiana
they are really simple to take apart. There is a snap ring holding the outer hub housing on. If it is really stuck in there tap on it with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer ..(or thick rags and conventional hammer) but once that snap ring is out it should just pull out. After that there are more snap rings...
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 35
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You can check the Tech forum above and I just had a good thread chat a few days ago.
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3185334
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1272163-help.html
They are ESOF hubs that are supposed to do both manual and auto locking...here's what mine look like today:
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3185334
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1272163-help.html
They are ESOF hubs that are supposed to do both manual and auto locking...here's what mine look like today:
Looks like I have some reading ahead of me. Thank you for the good links.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Tullahoma, TN
My passenger hub is stuck. However, I think it's just the turn ****.
Most of the threads about this topic seem to occur when the innards are stuck due to no grease or something else.
However, I pulled all the guts out of mine and my **** seems to be what's stuck. It almost seems to be seized.
Any thoughts?
Brett
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Hey guys...
My passenger hub is stuck. However, I think it's just the turn ****.
Most of the threads about this topic seem to occur when the innards are stuck due to no grease or something else.
However, I pulled all the guts out of mine and my **** seems to be what's stuck. It almost seems to be seized.
Any thoughts?
Brett
My passenger hub is stuck. However, I think it's just the turn ****.
Most of the threads about this topic seem to occur when the innards are stuck due to no grease or something else.
However, I pulled all the guts out of mine and my **** seems to be what's stuck. It almost seems to be seized.
Any thoughts?
Brett
Stewart
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Tullahoma, TN
I'm confused with your response.
I've taken all the grease internal components out and the **** still doesn't turn.
I'm just wondering what may be the issue.
Any further help someone could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Brett
I've taken all the grease internal components out and the **** still doesn't turn.
I'm just wondering what may be the issue.
Any further help someone could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Brett
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Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
The internals of your switch are seizing, just like you said (posted) so how are you confused?
Did you already try the ATF trick in the tech folder?
Stewart
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Tullahoma, TN
Secondly, is there a way to purchase just the housing/switch **** itself it seems most if the internal components are still in great shape, but the **** is super stiff.
Thanks,
Brett
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Tullahoma, TN
So I've removed all the guts of the locking hub itself. Are you saying the internals of the actual **** switch are seizing and if I can't turn it, is atf fluid really going to help it break lose?
Secondly, is there a way to purchase just the housing/switch **** itself it seems most if the internal components are still in great shape, but the **** is super stiff.
Thanks,
Brett
Secondly, is there a way to purchase just the housing/switch **** itself it seems most if the internal components are still in great shape, but the **** is super stiff.
Thanks,
Brett
I just re-read all the info about getting the hub switch back to functioning.
As a follow up to my last question though... is there a place you can buy just the external housing (with ****). It looks like I may be too far gone. I'm going to try to soak it and work it, but if it's too bad, can you buy just the housing from someone and use my internals from my current manual locking hub to save some money?
Thank you again,
Brett
New User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 21
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From: New Haven
This doesn't address your question directly, but after replacing the OEM hubs twice in the last two years I gave up on the OEM type and installed manual. A pair of Mile Markers cost less the one OEM.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Secondly, is there a way to purchase just the housing/switch **** itself it seems most if the internal components are still in great shape, but the **** is super stiff.
Thanks,
Brett
Thanks,
Brett
Most opt to replace with Warn or Mile Marker actuator switches.
Stewart
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Tullahoma, TN
Ah, I thought you were talking about the internals of the sealed actuator.
1C3Z-3B396-CB | eBay
Most opt to replace with Warn or Mile Marker actuator switches.
Stewart
1C3Z-3B396-CB | eBay
Most opt to replace with Warn or Mile Marker actuator switches.
Stewart
Thanks for your replies. What are the differences in the way the OEM ones that you provided a link to in eBay versus the Warn or Mile Marker ones function? I lose the Shift On The Fly feature, right? Or do they function the same way (manually turn to lock hubs before possibly using ESOF to engage if necessary)?
Secondly... all those auctions in eBay you listed are for full units, right? What I was curious about was purchasing strictly the housing (aka turn ****) without the internals. All my internals (cogs / gears / washers / springs) are in great shape. I just need a new turn **** and housing ... if that makes any sense. Or do you have to purchase the entire assembly as a whole?
Brett
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
You have to purchase the whole thing. They are not cheap. You do lose shift on the fly with the manual hubs, but you have assurance that they are either locked or in my case unlocked. Mine were staying engaged and spinning the front end while driving. I pulled them apart and cleaned/greased them several times, but they would still hang engaged after using 4x4. Probably due to a weak disengage pulse from an aging vac seal in the hub.